O.K. I’m here in Texas and my a/c is not the best I have a crack in the compressor so it lacks so it needs to be refilled more often and I would like it to blow a little faster. So I was wondering what the best option would be (A) Buy a new compressor. (B) Switch to the newer coolant or (C) “Upgrade” the a/c (which I have no idea how or what to do 2 achieve this)
Any help would be nice,
Thanks

buy new compressor and run wire from alternator directly to AC high blower relay for more amps.

Where is this relay and how would I go about doing this so I dont mess up my elky?

Running wire directly to the relay is interesting, but shouldn't you protect that wire with a fuse?

has anyone done this? and if so can they expain it so I can do it cuz it is hot here in Texas.

Or did you do something else to help the a/c work better. PLEASE do tell

has anyone done this? and if so can they expain it so I can do it cuz it is hot here in Texas.

Or did you do something else to help the a/c work better. PLEASE do tell

This would be a hit or miss solution depending on what your problem really is...and yes, if you run a wire directly to the relay please fuse it.

Back to your problem, do a search here in the forums for blower, it should bring up several posts concerning air flow problems and solutions... I know, I have have already answered this question a half dozen times!

The answer is not hit or miss. GM has a poor connection in the high ampere lead to the high blower relay. It usually either corrodes or arcs out completely, causing a high resistance in the circuit. If you want to fuse it, go ahead, but the relay is only engaged when the ignition is in the run position and the factory did not have a fuse in that lead either.

If you thoroughly read my response, you will see that I said, "This would be a hit or miss solution depending on what your problem really is..." The key words being, "what your problem really is."

So, if high resistance were his problem, then that would surely be a temporary solution, or if you may, a "hit."

However, if his problem were a weak blower motor, control, a vacuum issue, or a bad ground, then this would be a "miss."

Nevertheless, running a wire from the battery to the relay is a good diagnostic tool.

The problem you mention with high resistance in GM high blower relay feed circuits is very well known and documented. Those of us in the field have been using this fix for years, also, GM's are not the only vehicles that have this issue.

Searching the "Electrical Systems," articles I found the article I wrote about this a couple of years ago.
http://elcaminocentral.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=9&mode=thread&order=1&thold=1


The factory did fuse the feed to the relay, so, if you are planning on bypassing the original feed, by all means, fuse it.
The feed to the relay is battery positive and is fused, one side of the relay coil is grounded and the other side of the coil is energized only when the blower selector switch is in the "high" position.

I don't make this stuff up as I go, been doing this for far too long.

But don't take my word for it, here's the factory wiring diagrams:



http://elcaminocentral.com/articles/blower/1of2bm.gif

http://elcaminocentral.com/articles/blower/2of2bm.gif

I was always under the impression that the problem with the multi connector at the blower motor resistor was caused by a worn out blower motor drawing excessive amperage. Is this correct or is there an inherent problem with the circuitry, ie. too small a feed wire or a improperly engineered connection. If it is the latter why didn't GM correct the problem sooner (or is that a stupid question?).

I was always under the impression that the problem with the multi connector at the blower motor resistor was caused by a worn out blower motor drawing excessive amperage

This is basically what I said in the article above:

http://elcaminocentral.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=9&mode=thread&order=1&thold=1

Except the connection is the four pin behind the engine, not at the blower resistor.

My problem is the multi connector at the resistor block as it obviously overheated and damaged the connector. Does anyone know if that connector is available as a replacement part?

My problem is the multi connector at the resistor block as it obviously overheated and damaged the connector. Does anyone know if that connector is available as a replacement part?

I would think so. Was used on several models and years, if you can't find one new, I have a few used.