Once again, no "brakes" section...


My new rear has disk brakes from an F-body. I hooked them up and bled the brakes and they don't even move. If you don't know what I'm talking about in a question, I'll try to clear it up. Basically, just tell what everything is :lol: My Dad bought a proportioning valve from an F-body at the junk yard for $25 and I need to know

what the wire that hooks up to the yellow connector is?

Do I have to use this in conjuction with an F-body master cylider?

How should I attatch the lines going into my current master cylinder to the P/V? I don't know if they'll even fit! Should I just bend them?

What is the port for that goes off on a diagonal to the side for another metal line?

What are the plug/cover type things on the ends? Does it even matter what they are? :lol:

http://elcaminocentral.com/albums/album248/a_015.jpg
http://elcaminocentral.com/albums/album248/a_016.jpg

The yellow connector goes to your idiot light on the dash that tells you that your brakes have failed or your parking brake is applied. the two top ports go to the master cylinder. The angled port goes to the rear brake line. the two bottom ports go to left and right front brakes.
Question: I am assuming that you have four wheel disc brakes, did this proportioning valve come from a car with four wheel discs or did it come from a car with front disc, rear drum? The valves are different for each and will not work on the other properly.
The stems under the rubber covers are for pressure bleeding, the stem is held in while bleeding the system. If your not getting any movement in the rear pads that means there is air in the system and has to be bled out.

hey i told you where to get the correct proportioning valve! Inlinetube.com sells the exact one for El Camino's with the disc/disc brakes. I hooked mine right up no modifcations no trouble! If the rear brake aren't moving you've got to still have air in the lines. take off the brake lines at the callipers starting with the furthest from the master cylinder and let the line drip until you get a good amount of brake fluid coming out. then reconnect and work your way around the car doing the same thing. Once that is done, bleed the brakes by pumping the pedal hard, holding it down, then cracking open the bleeders one by one. repeat that until you don't get anymore air. I am sure you know how to bleed brakes but that is how i did mine. I replaced the master cylinder, proportionibg valve, 4 calipers, all the lines and hoses, so it was a royal pain to bleed by hand! -Matt

Yeah, my Dad got the prop. valve from the junk yard (and it's for a disk/drum setup.) He figured anythiong was better than what we have now--NOTHING (in the rear at least.) I totally forgot about that place Matt. I wrote down that # and we'll call soon. Sounds like the perfect fix. Thanks guys.

Yes it's 4-wheels disks by the way if I forgot to mention that before.

To continue the proportioning valve dicussion - for a rear wheel disc conversion do you have to remove any of the combination valve or just add an aftermarket proportioning valve (e.g Tilton) to the rear brake line?

What else could be wrong with my brakes? They should at least move without a proportioning valve right!? They were bled well and the calipers are brand new from an f-body. I want to be able to drive my car!!!