I have a 85 Elky with a 305 V8.

I have just installed new valve stem seals and O-rings and am in the process of reassembly, but have run into a problem with adjusting the valves.

Engine is in the car.

Problem: I can not get the torsional damper timing mark to line up to the "0" mark.

The GM shop manual says to bring the timing mark on the torsional damper to the "0" timing mark by cranking the engine. I have done this by quick-hitting the starter repeatedly but not having any success getting the marks to closely align. I get within 20-40 degrees...but anther quick hit of the starter has the mark blow right on by the "0" mark.

When close, I have tried turning the engine by hand by putting a wrench on the crank pulley bolt and attempting to turn the bolt/pulley clockwise...unable to turn the bolt/pulley, although it seems I am moving (tightening) the bolt. All belts are OFF the car. (From a previous post and responses, I have learned that this crank pulley bolt is NOT reverse thread, so turning this bolt so as to attempt to turn this bolt/engine in a clockwise direction is NOT loosening the bolt.)

(I know that I have to do this mark match-up twice...once to get the #1 cylinder in firing position and again to get the #6 cylinder in firing position...in order to adjust all valves correctly.)

Spark plugs are all out. The carb was off...now back on, but have not tried the 'mark match-up' since reinstalling the carb.

Questions:
--What technique should I use to get the torsional damper mark to come to "0"??
--How close to the "0" mark do I have to get and do the valve lash adjustment correctly?? That is, do I have some leeway??

The rest of the job has gone smoothly...bu this is getting to be a real pain. The MUST be an easier, quicker way!!

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

TIA

Taj

I have been using a torque wrench for atempting to turn the crank pulley (thus to turn the crankshaft) so as to NOT exceed the torque settings for this bolt (and to get extra leverage).

Factory specs call for 65-75 ft-lbs for this torsional damper bolt (in center of the crak pulley).

The torque wrench was set to 60 ft-lbs. Using the wrench at this setting SHOULD move the crank as long as the wrench does not 'click' at this torque...is that correct??

For sure, I do not want to shear the head off this bolt.

But why I am not getting the crank to turn with this method with the spark plugs removed is a mystery to me.

Any help/suggestions much appreciated!!!

Taj

is the transmission in nuetral?

Was this engine rebuilt? How about some more info...what if anything in the way of machine shop work has been done to the engine (specifically the crankshaft), has the crank been reground or replaced? If so did you install the right size bearings? Did you use an assembly lube on the bearings? Did you torque the main bearing caps and rod bearing caps to the correct specs?

Q--Is tranny in Neutral??
A--No. In Park (automatic).

Q--(summarized) What other engine work is being done??
A--None. Work is specifically to replace valve stem oil seals and O-rings. All parts removed (push rods, rockers, rocker balls, tops of valves) have all been "coated" with assembly lube upon reinstallation.

Thanks.

Taj

With an automatic tranny and the fact that the starter is operable in either Park or Neitral, should it matter whether the tranny is in Park or Neutral to be able to turn the crankshaft pulley??

Logic tells me it makes no difference...but has my logic gone haywire?!?!?

Thanks.

Taj

Q--Is tranny in Neutral??
A--No. In Park (automatic).

Q--(summarized) What other engine work is being done??
A--None. Work is specifically to replace valve stem oil seals and O-rings. All parts removed (push rods, rockers, rocker balls, tops of valves) have all been "coated" with assembly lube upon reinstallation.

Thanks.

Taj

I could be wrong but ... I don't think you'll get it to turn over in park, not by hand. If the engine is really tight I've been known to install some sacrificial bolts in the damper and putting a bar between them to turn the engine.

I've used a really big screwdriver on the flywheel before now I have a tool for that and that is what I use. The bump starter method is more of a "chance" thing to me.

Remove the plugs and put it in neutral, set park brake, yada, yada, yada, try turning the flywheel, more leverage.

my $.02 worth.

Pete, engine is in car and tranny NOT removed. Access to flywheel is thus limited, at best. Starter is on the car too. And spark plugs are out out.

Yes, the flywheel approach would premit far more leverage. But how can I access the flywheel appropriately for the turning you suggest...with the tranny mounted??

You're exactly right about the 'starter method' being chancy. I can get close but never, so far, rigth at the mark I need ("0").

I'll try turning the crankshaft pulley in Neutral to see if that makes a difference.

Do you see any risk in doing that??

Where did you get your flywheel tool?? (I picture a tool that is placed across a span of several flywheel teeth and enables a tuening.)

Thanks!!

Taj

There is only five or six small bolts holding the dust cover over the torque converter. Take that off. The wrench is a spanner. It lock on to the teeth of the flywheel. It doesn't have a long handle, not really.

I think that year the bolts #10 Metric. Before they were 3/8 & 7/16th. Anyway the dust cover is easy to remove. Some can be a little pain at the pan of the tranny. Some have a small lip that you have to get over the Pan Flange sometimes. But I am pretty sure yours is plastic anyway so that shouldn't present a problem.

Once you've got the cover removed the flywheel is yours to command. :-D You don't have to do anything with the starter to get the cover off.

Good Luck!