but i put on a new mc and bled the brakes and still no brakes well i can pump them and they think they want to get stiff then it all sinks to the floor and i cant stop the car till the pedal hits the floor. no leaks no air as far as i can tell and i have vacuum to the booster there is a filter or something in the vacuum hose but not sure what that does could that cause me to not have brakes? anyway short of payin out the 2 million to replace the booster im at a loss does anyone have any ideas that will get me thru and get my 79 back to stoppin like it should?????

That is not a booster problem. A booster problem would be if you had to push really hard to get anything to happen. They tend to design stuff like that to have a backup mode so a single point failure does not result in a total complete failure.

No it sounds like you have a hydraulic problem. If you are not losing fluid then you only have two possibilities: either you still have air in the system or you have fluid leaking past the seals in the master cylinder. How much fluid did you bleed out to get the air out? Did you "bench bleed" the MC?

mc was bench bled maybe i just need to find a vacuum bleeder at the auto hobby shop here on base if they have one just to make sure i have all the air out maybe i put a big bubble in there and just gonna take a few hundred ounzes of fluid to get it out and vacuum bleeding is going to be the best way to do that. i have put about 28oz of fluid thru the lines just a guess but maybe im just not getting what i need out of the traditional push and bleed

Where did you get the MC from? I went through 3 Autozone MC's before I said screw it and got a NAPA one that worked perfect!

Set you car to where the front is up at a slight angle, fill the resvoir full. then open ALL of the bleed screws. Let it gravity feed all of the lines and when you are sure ALL of the air is out, tighten them up. This is a old method and it works on old cars, but it works. This will take all of the air out of your lines, because thats what it sounds like. It can be messy, but you'll have a good, bled brake system. After you do this method, you can always go back to the regular way of bleeding, but thats a option.

It once took me literally a day and a gallon of brake fluid pumped through my system to get all the air out after I changed the front and rear brake lines on my Elky. Down side was Brake fluid everywhere, Up side was that I had really clean brake lines when I was done...

Sometimes it just takes a bit of time. I have alot of luck with the one man bleeder kits. The simple ones with the magnet, tube and jar. Put a bit of fluid in the far so it don't catch air and just slowly put pedal to the floor while you watch for the bubbles.

:-D

ok tonite i will give it a shot my driveway is on a slight upgrade and you know most brake fluid is water soluable (sp?) so i will give it a gravity bleed and see how it goes i was able to get the wife out there to help me once more (isnt she a wonderful woman to put up with me) and i had bubbles and bubbles in the mc when she pushed to pedal to the floor i may take it over to the auto hobby shop here on base and dirty their floor instead of my driveway or garage floor. thanks all for your info i love this site it has helped me out so much since i got this car and it has become the love of my life(dont worry the wife has known from the start cars and nascar are always first in my life then the kids then her lol) again thanks all

For what it's worth always bleed the longest line first, then the next longest, etc, ie: right rear, left rear, right front, left front.

I think that filter looking thing in the vacuum line is a valve which prevents vacuum loss back to the engine.

ok the switch valve on the vacuum line i took off it was bad and i got the brakes to work i just had to bleed about a 55 gallon drum of fluid thru it i had a little yuck in the one line and once i got all that out and the air it was fine i just didnt then again i found out also that the auto hobby shop here on base has a paint booth and that just made my day so i am happy i can drive my elky again and i have a place to paint it cant get any better than that thanks all that helped me out and gave me info

Your lucky you have a Auto Hobby SHop, When I was in the Navy, I worked in one for about 4 months, had a blast. With that being said, your auto Hobby shop should have a mahine shop lined up in the civ. world to do machine work and maybe a parts place that gives discounts. I know that NAPA gave military discounts in cali, dunno about Ohio. Plus, they should have all of the tools needed to completely re-do your motor/ heads etc. Lucky you :) I'm now retired from the Navy and have to pay for all of that on my own, no Auto Hobby Shop out here :( (its called Morty's Hobby Shop and its expensive :))

P.S. Sandcrabs don't know what a Auto Hobby Shop is :). Its a garage with multple stalls and hoists, that you can go work on your own vehicles, when you live on a military base. They don't want people working on their cars in the parking lots at the barracks (dorms) so they provide this garage with access to almost anything you might need to do any type of automobile repairs needed, including a paint booth, tire balancers, hot tanks, valve grinders, you name it, most shops have it.

Again, your lucky may I say, use that shop to the fullest, because once your out, its over bro :)

the plastic thing in your vacuum line to the booster is a check valve-it is supposed to prevent vacuum bleed off when the engine is not running so you have power brakes and the engine starts easier when you start the elky in the morning. if you pull it out and try to blow through it- youll find it only goes one way, if you can blow both ways, its time to change it. but it can be temporarily bypassed if it goes bad on the side of the road. the vacuum resivoir pulls alot of vacuum straight from the intake manifold-try pulling it off whe the motor is running and it will most likely stall the engine.