Tajgarage
06-28-2003, 11:45 PM
I have a 85 Elky with a 305 V8. Just got done with replacing the valve seals and have all reassembled.
Having difficulty getting her started.
Appears that I'm not getting full juice to the starter and plan to replace the hot lead from the batttery. Mating surface of the cable to the battery has deteriorated recently due to a cracked Delco battery at the hot post. Can't seem to get a good contact there. (For the record, my Delco dealer tells me that this has been occurring frequently recently...apparently more so with long cable bolts at the battery...Elky's are short bolts.)
A little background on the valve adjustment after the valve seal replacement:
--Could not turn the engine by hand and did not have the tools to turn the flywheel (thanks for the suggestion though, ElkyPete!!)...so I 'bump-started' the engine to the #1 and #6 firing positions to get appropriate valves adjusted. The closest I could get was 2 degrees BTDC for both the #1 and #6 firing positions...and this process required a LOT of 'bump-starts' to get it this close!!
--As opposed to going for 0-lash, then down 1 full turn, I used a .0015" feeler between each rocker/valve and then went down 1 full turn (per Haynes to avoid what can be non-uniform 0-lash basis by just 'twirling' te pushrods).
--All pushrods were fine (no bends). So were all rocker assemblies.
--Reassembly included liberal use of Lubriplate on pushrods, rockers, rocker balls, and valve stem heads.
--No other changes were made to the engine settings (e.g., distributor was not moved; no other new parts were installed (other than a new cab-to-manifold gasket and rocker cover gaskets.
--I am getting gas to the carb...and have tried starting fluid (3 second sprays into the carb to 'encourage' starting.
--If I have spark plugs out, the engine turns freely (with the starter).
--Examined distributor rotor and cap for wear. There is some...these 2 units were replaced along with the coil and ignition wires 15k miles ago. All wear appears normal (plan to replace these 2 parts since I now have it apart).
--Plugs have been cleaned, reegapped, and reinstalled.
--Car has sat up for 2 weeks for this job.
My thought at this point is I'm not getting full power to the starter to enable it to turn fast enough to get the engine started. Engine is cranking but very slowly. Battery is brand new...and not the one that was used for the 'bump-starts'.
Questions:
--Is it possble my 'close enough' in using a 2 degrees BTDC really not close enough??
--Does anyone see something I might have done wrong enough that would make the car hard to start??
--Assuming I can get her started again, will I have to adjust the timing to compensate for the 2 degree 'offset' for the valve adjustment??
Any other ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
Hopefully, I've not screwed up...but if I have, please let me know where and what I should do to correct it. I can take it!! LOL
Thanks!!
Taj
Having difficulty getting her started.
Appears that I'm not getting full juice to the starter and plan to replace the hot lead from the batttery. Mating surface of the cable to the battery has deteriorated recently due to a cracked Delco battery at the hot post. Can't seem to get a good contact there. (For the record, my Delco dealer tells me that this has been occurring frequently recently...apparently more so with long cable bolts at the battery...Elky's are short bolts.)
A little background on the valve adjustment after the valve seal replacement:
--Could not turn the engine by hand and did not have the tools to turn the flywheel (thanks for the suggestion though, ElkyPete!!)...so I 'bump-started' the engine to the #1 and #6 firing positions to get appropriate valves adjusted. The closest I could get was 2 degrees BTDC for both the #1 and #6 firing positions...and this process required a LOT of 'bump-starts' to get it this close!!
--As opposed to going for 0-lash, then down 1 full turn, I used a .0015" feeler between each rocker/valve and then went down 1 full turn (per Haynes to avoid what can be non-uniform 0-lash basis by just 'twirling' te pushrods).
--All pushrods were fine (no bends). So were all rocker assemblies.
--Reassembly included liberal use of Lubriplate on pushrods, rockers, rocker balls, and valve stem heads.
--No other changes were made to the engine settings (e.g., distributor was not moved; no other new parts were installed (other than a new cab-to-manifold gasket and rocker cover gaskets.
--I am getting gas to the carb...and have tried starting fluid (3 second sprays into the carb to 'encourage' starting.
--If I have spark plugs out, the engine turns freely (with the starter).
--Examined distributor rotor and cap for wear. There is some...these 2 units were replaced along with the coil and ignition wires 15k miles ago. All wear appears normal (plan to replace these 2 parts since I now have it apart).
--Plugs have been cleaned, reegapped, and reinstalled.
--Car has sat up for 2 weeks for this job.
My thought at this point is I'm not getting full power to the starter to enable it to turn fast enough to get the engine started. Engine is cranking but very slowly. Battery is brand new...and not the one that was used for the 'bump-starts'.
Questions:
--Is it possble my 'close enough' in using a 2 degrees BTDC really not close enough??
--Does anyone see something I might have done wrong enough that would make the car hard to start??
--Assuming I can get her started again, will I have to adjust the timing to compensate for the 2 degree 'offset' for the valve adjustment??
Any other ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
Hopefully, I've not screwed up...but if I have, please let me know where and what I should do to correct it. I can take it!! LOL
Thanks!!
Taj