And it's a beautiful ride. I just went through emission with great results. The previous owner installed a manual choke on the carb. When the choke is pushed in the car is a dog off the line. Really slow , then a somewhat hard shift into second where she finally feels like she's getting some steam.
The funny thing to me is when I position the choke just right, that sluggish start off the line goes away and she's strong with no hard shifting.
I don't want to screw with anything seeing that I passed emissions but it seems that something on the ccc is bad.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
If that carb is old & been on there for a long time, it may have some debris in it, causing what you describe. Getting it rebuilt may be what you will have to do. Lots of posts on here about rebuilt carbs & who does it.
Taking it apart your self may not be a good idea if you aren't into carbs at all.
If it's a true manual choke, then you will have to close it to start your vehicle when it's cold, and then open it as the vehicle warms up. It is not something you can set once and forget. They are a pain, and the reason the thermostatic chokes were invented.
I love manual chokes, I like to be in control. Here in SOCAL you can't pass smog with a manual choke. The only downside to manual chokes, and I believe that's why they went away, is people tend to over choke or forget to fully turn it off.If you have the dinero I would save the money you would put into getting the choke operational towards a Mountain Man rebuilt and start enjoying your Elky and life in general.
Ok so here's the setup I inherited. You can see how the manual choke was installed on the choke thermostat.
Some have suggested that I hit the linkage with carb cleaner to possibly free them up , while others say replace the the thermostat and and the part attached to it all together. I really like the way she runs (minus fiddling with the choke issue) and don't necessarily want to replace the carb unless I absolutely have no choice.
Also I found this connector just laying here and have no clue what it goes to. I can't help but think that with its proximity to the choke it was the connected to the it at some point. Any help there also would be great.
Also when I manually moved the linkage it's REALLY notched.
Looks there is a choke-pull already there (but does it work?)...that wire is probably the hot lead for the electric thermostatic choke spring.
Makes you wonder why the PO did what he did. You have to start from scratch, verify all components, and I would attempt to return to OE operation, that's just me though...
The thing is I don't know if this carb came with an electric or manual choke to begin with. The Rochester P/N 17088152 tells me it came with a P/N CC139 but the maintenance manual carb P/N E4ME calls for P/N
EC-8281-C.
My guess is the spring behind that black plastic cover is broken- common problem. You can buy a kit with a new spring, and it comes with screws that replace the three rivets. You have to drill out those rivets, pop the cover off, and insert the new spring. Not hard at all, once you get the rivets out.
I can only guess that the wire you showed is the choke wire. The connector is not a choke connector, but rather something aftermarket. Start the car, and then check for 12V on that wire. Voltage there would indicate that it is likely the choke wire.
Sorry I misled you. I know the manual choke isn't factory. He told me he installed it. I just don't know what came with it originally , the choke with the blade type connector or the one with what looks like a screw driver slot in the center.
UPDATE!!!!!! I finally said to hell with it and bought my first mountain man carb! Like night and day! Simply plug n play. Thanks to everyone who said I should try one out.
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