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  #16  
Old 01-16-2013, 11:14 AM
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Dimitri13 Dimitri13 is offline
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Name: Jaymie
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Thanks Bonos, between the three brains, we got it fired up and the timing dead on. As for the carb, I've been working on my motorcycle for over a year and I've done everything to it, it's completely torn down all the way and just waiting for some parts to return from the mainland. It makes me feel helpless not being able to work on my own stuff. I may just bite the bullet though and get a Mountain Man qjet, and take the core return time to figure out how to rebuild mine.

Attila, don't worry, I've got a Flinstone hole in my passenger floorboard, it's just covered up by the carpet. The passenger side is maybe big enough for Bam-Bam. I may be interested in that hood if it's a stock steel one with little to no rust. Got any pictures of what you have left over?
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1973 El Camino SS - Acquired 4/13/13
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2013, 01:53 PM
the ghoul the ghoul is offline
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ohhhhhh baby,
looks like you got your self a goodin!
My $.02
never be affraid of spending money on brake systems.. worth their weight in gold.
Mind you, i have no idea what your budget looks like, but if the underbody is as rusty as you are saying you might just want to look into getting a full brake line/fuel line set (alot better than fixing them as they fail, and alot less heart attacks).
inlinetube.com is a great company and has awesome products very good resorce for any stock/custom break line. Rubber brake lines, and caliper/wheel cylinder rebuild kits can be had for good prices at rockauto.com and if you take your calipers to a machine shop they can re-chamfer the bleeder seats. sounds to me like the last owner really reeefed on those bleeder screws and distorted the seats.

If your missfireing under heavy acceleration, id suspect plugs wires timing... but if your at a consistant speed and it missfires as you gradually start pulling higher RPM (highway speed) id suspect fuel delievery... if your carb rebuild dosent help check fuel filter/fuel line flush/ tank fulsh (might have a heck of alot of rust in the gas tank as well as under the car).

Take her as she comes, one day at a time bud, youll get there!
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2013, 10:11 PM
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I bought pretty much everything to replace the current brake system, except the proportioning valve, lines, and booster.

I was misfiring under acceleration at higher RPMs. I tested it in 1st (auto) and it would want to cut out at higher rpm, not necessarily higher speed. What direction is the fuel filter supposed to go in? Like the little rubber check valve lookin thing. I'm pretty sure I got it in right, but I want to make sure. I ran some fuel system cleaner through the tank when I first picked it up, so hopefully it cleaned out the lines a bit.
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  #19  
Old 01-22-2013, 08:54 PM
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Got the timing dead on, 8 degrees BTDC. Not sure if it's at 600RPM though, I have to get my friend's strobe gun with a tach readout. I still suspect I have a carb issue. I'm waiting on my manual (it's been about two and a half weeks, I suspect it's on a boat coming here, rather than a plane), to see if I can't figure out how to properly rebuild the carb this time. If not, I'll just pony up the cash for a Mountain Man carb. Oh, and I still have to check for vacuum leaks.

Other than that, I had an issue with my brake pedal return EXTREMELY slowly, like 30 seconds +. At first I suspected it just needed bleeding. After the issues I described in my previous posts, I ended up replacing the rear cylinders, front calipers, master cylinder, and all the pads/shoes. That didn't fix it so I took a look at the power booster. Vacuum-wise, it checked out. Took it off, and sure enough, the rod was the culprit. Ordered a new one off Amazon because none of the parts stores stock them. Well, now I have an almost completely new brake system (just proportioning valve and 6 of the 7 lines are old), and I didn't spend TOO much.

I'm getting ever closer to taking her out on the road. I'm STILL hoping that a full tank of good gas will fix it, but I'm not holding my breath.
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  #20  
Old 01-23-2013, 12:01 AM
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attilaboy attilaboy is offline
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Yo D,
I'm going to pm you some pics of my extra hood. You planning on keeping te fiberglass one you have? I'd be interested if you are thinking of parting with it.
Aloha,
Ken
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  #21  
Old 01-23-2013, 12:04 AM
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Nah no reason for me to keep it if I get another hood. The fiberglass hood isn't in bad shape, just needs a repaint and maybe some bracing to keep it from bowing.
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  #22  
Old 01-23-2013, 12:16 AM
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Shoots D. I'll take pics tomorrow.
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  #23  
Old 01-23-2013, 12:22 AM
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Cool, I'll get some pictures too just in case.
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  #24  
Old 01-23-2013, 04:01 PM
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It's a miracle, my brakes are fixed! It was indeed the booster. Just installed a new (remanufactured) Cardone booster, and my brake pedal actually returns like it's supposed to. Just need to bleed the brakes, finish fixing the seat adjuster (need to lube the track), finished cleaning the carpet, bolt the seat back up, and I should be ready to hit the gas station.
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  #25  
Old 01-28-2013, 03:10 PM
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Gave up (I don't often give up on stuff) on trying to make the carb work right, so I ordered one from Mountain Man. Should be here sometime next week, so I can't wait. The carb is the only thing keeping it off the road.
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  #26  
Old 01-28-2013, 03:31 PM
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You will be happy with it
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  #27  
Old 01-28-2013, 04:11 PM
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From what I read I think I will

As long as nothing else is keeping it from running right (ignition system, cylinder down on compression, etc), next up will be shocks/springs. The plan is to get KYB gas-a-just shocks all around, lower it 1-2", and maybe get the AirLift 1000 bags in the rear.
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  #28  
Old 01-30-2013, 12:14 AM
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Picked up a set of 15×10 Wheel Vintiques Corvette rallye wheels with original rallye caps and rims. Tires are not so bad, 235/60 Dunlop qualifiers , but one has a bubble so that and the most worn will be replaced with 295/50 BFG radials. When the front two wear out I'll replace them with BFGs.
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  #29  
Old 01-31-2013, 12:08 AM
WhisperPC WhisperPC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri13 View Post
Tires are not so bad, 235/60 Dunlop qualifiers , but one has a bubble so that and the most worn will be replaced with 295/50 BFG radials.
The 295s are going to be a tight fit in those wheelwells. You'll probably need a panhard bar to keep the rear centered.
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  #30  
Old 01-31-2013, 11:44 AM
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The wheels turned out to be 15x8s so I'm getting my money back, holding off on wheels/tires for now, and doing some suspension stuff.

The fenders have been flared 1-3/4" (to 3") so there shouldn't be a problem.
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