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#16
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That cussing at me is very unfriendly ...not very professional either.
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hey yall,,,watch this... To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. |
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#17
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Come on guys. Move it over to CHAT or drop it. Just help the guy out.
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84 Elky with 455 Stage 2 Buick, Tremec TKO600 5 speed, 8.5 3:23 posi 98 Acura CL custom upholstered seats, Dakota Digital Instrumentation- To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. Car Domain: To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. Another 3 to 9 years should finish it. |
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#18
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Quote:
No worries here, I know how to use the report function.
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#19
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ok so i replaced the pick up coil and still no spark. ive gotta find some one with a meter to see if its getting the right voltage. other than that i have no idea! driving me crazy. had to miss work today because the starter went out on my room mates pos *** car.
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#20
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what about the capacitor in the base of the distributor? i know its for radio interference but could it mess with the ignition and prevent current travel to the module?
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#21
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take the v6 module and have it tested...lots of places do this,,advance...auto zone,,orielly
make sure they test it several times to get it good and hot,,, |
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#22
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i did that before i even started swapping out distributors and parts. also had the ignition coil tested. both were good. im asking about the capacitor because it wires into the module. so if the capacitor is bad would it prevent spark? or what else could prevent spark. i checked all the plugs and they look good. im about out of ideas here.
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#23
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start at the basics, verify 12v to the distributor(the pink wire,with the key on),then have the module tested, ect ect. everything has a flow of diagnosis, inspect the cap and button, make sure the button is making good contact with the little black button inside the cap, look for peeled insulation on wires that could be causing a short(i have had this happen a couple of times to the pickup coil) a lot of times things like coils,ignition modules ect will pass the tests at autozone or oriellys but be bad in real life.(especially if they sold the part or a moron is working the counter)if all else fails try to find a car with known good distributor(ie runs/has the same type of engine), then test your parts on it one at a time. The hei distributor is extremely easy to diagnose once you understand how it works, maybe read up on it a little till you understand what makes it tick.....
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77 Classic with one piece main 350, .60 over,Flattops, vortec heads, edelbrock single plane,2800 stall converter, 1-3/4 heddman headers,lt4 "hotcam", tbi running at 22psi ,3.73 gears custom tune with a lot of fuel and a scary amount of timing....... Last edited by Skandolis; 01-16-2013 at 05:26 PM. |
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#24
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I know you've probably checked this, but be sure the ground strap is properly positioned on the coil. It's easy to miss.
We're all shooting in the dark here a little. I think this is the first time I've seen a project trying to make a V8 distributor out of a V6, so be patient with us if we don't nail this. Can't answer your question on the capacitor, as I don't know it's real function. I know years ago with points systems it was used to help reduce radio interference- just don't know with the electronic stuff.
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'85 SS, Wicked Ruby Red, Gm Crate 350, Vortec heads,TPI, Serp, TES headers, Choo Choo nose, Acura Leather heated buckets, 2004 Gp Console and Shifter, 8.5 GN rear with 3.73, GN 200-4r, Craftec Tonneau w/ Electric release, Power Mirrors, Electronic HVAC, ZQ8 rims, Blazer Front brake upgrade, LS1 rear brake upgrade. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. |
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#25
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Take the coil out of the top of the distribitor and look at the carbon tip you get with new caps,, and check the inside of the cap for cracks and corroded terminals,,,, and the gnd strap that was talked about,,, Matty man
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#26
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as for the capacitor they still call it a radio capacitor so i would say thats all it does, but they don't cost much i would replace it if it is suspect..........one other thing, make sure the ignition power wire is plugged in to the right place, i have seen them plugged in to the tach location more than once and it will not start that way.
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#27
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back to no spark......anyone wanna tell me how to run a wire from my fuse box straight to the hot wire on my distriubutor? pictures help since most of the lettering on my fuse box has been rubbed off over the years lol
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#28
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if for just a test, you can run the wire from the battery..
your ignition wire comes from the ignition switch on the collumn,to the neutral safty switch, to the distributer.. diagrams http://www.maliburacing.com/wiring.html fusebox,, the terms on the left are switched by the key/ignition. http://www.elcaminocentral.com/attac...2&d=1336449286
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JJ 85 SS LT1 383 4L60 8.5 3.73 To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. |
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#29
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awsome! thanks for the diagrams. ive got a buddy coming to help with it tomorrow because hes done it before on his mid 80's Chevy pickup. diagrams are a BIG help.
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#30
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ok so ive got some new symptoms. (yeah still havent got it started) if you pull the distributor out while everything is hooked up and manually turn it, i get spark. but with everything in the engine and put together i have no spark. ***?!!! i know the rotor is turning. brand new cap, coil, rotor, pickup coil. ive even got my car guy stumped. its just not making any logical sense here.
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