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#31
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broken cam gear...on timing chain side,,,lots of older cam gears where had teeth made of plastic type nylon,,, i bet your cam is not spinning,,,thats why you have spark when its out and not when its in,,your cam is not turning somehow,,,pull a vale cover off and turn the motor over ,,see if the rocker arms are moving,,,,
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#32
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Lift the cap up and have someone else crank the engine. If the rotor is not turning, you lost the timing chain, or broke the cam. Old plastic coated timing gears will usually strip the teeth off. Does the engine spin free, like no compression?
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Once you go Rat, you never go back! |
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#33
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well,, if you know the rotor is turning. IIRC you had a spark with the 305 dist. just at the wrong time.. so
as a test,, while you have the dist. out and still hooked up,, ground it with a jumper wire and spin it,, does it still spark?? i'm just guessing here..something is going to ground.. i hate to say keep throwing money at it,, but the last time i bought a rebuilt dist.,, it was like 90$.. Quote:
sorry..
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JJ 85 SS LT1 383 4L60 8.5 3.73 To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. |
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#34
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i dont know. i know the rotor is spinning because its in a diff. location everytime i lift the cap. pulled it out and jumped it with the wire while spining it and sometimes it would only spark on every other wire, but remember this is while it was out of the car and still connected by the wiring. and it cant be because its 180 out if it wasnt in the car at all. you see my confusion? im open for just about any suggestions so keep them coming
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#35
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After you put the distributor in turn the key on and measure the voltage at the tach lead on the distributor. If it is not at the same voltage as the ignition terminal turn the ignition off . Unplug the ignition wire to the distributor and measure the resistance from the tach terminal to the block. If it is 0 or low something is shorting the module output when the distributor is plugged in. If you have a tach it should move when you crank the engine if the module is putting out the pulse to fire the spark
Did you measure the resistance on the reluctance coil It should be between 500 and 1500 ohms. Here is a link to the V6Ignition wiring. http://www.maliburacing.com/wiring_d...tionSystem.jpg Something has to be shorting out one of these leads (reluctance coil) when the distributor is installed if everything has checked out. Did you put conductive grease under the EMR Module. The grease draws heat out of the module not an electrical connection. There also should be a thin plastic wafer under the module to isolate it unless they changed things. The early electronic distributors had them. |
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#36
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i just put in a brand new module with the dieletic grease. just havent made any headway with it yet. nothing im doing is seeming to make a difference. ill have to try to check the volts at the tac like you said. other than that my next step is to just rewire the whole damn thing. so if anyone out there knows exactly what i can omit from the wireing process to just run the bare assentials please let me know. diagrams help. thank you.
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#37
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Ron, Before you go re-wiring your car, think again about continuing to use a V6 Distributor in a V8 Application. Worth $20 to pick up a used one up at a Pick and Pull. I just can't help but think that this is an issue.
Also, in your last post you said dielectric grease, but I assume you meant the Heat Sink compound that comes with a new module. They are two very distinct items. If you use Dielectric grease on a module it will insulate it, not conduct the heat away, and will cause premature failure.
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'85 SS, Wicked Ruby Red, Gm Crate 350, Vortec heads,TPI, Serp, TES headers, Choo Choo nose, Acura Leather heated buckets, 2004 Gp Console and Shifter, 8.5 GN rear with 3.73, GN 200-4r, Craftec Tonneau w/ Electric release, Power Mirrors, Electronic HVAC, ZQ8 rims, Blazer Front brake upgrade, LS1 rear brake upgrade. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 signatures. |
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#38
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A little late for this but anyways here are some pics of distibutors showing the reluctor rings they are kinda nasty as they have been in a pile of parts in the corner for years
(didn't have a HEI v6 distributor) ![]() Notice 8 reluctor pickups on HEI v8 distributor ![]() TBI v8 distributor (8 pickups) ![]() v6 tbi distributor(6 pickups) finally make sure the reluctor isn't shorting to the dis base
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anytime your wife says she don't care about the 5 grand you spent on your new motor, get a good look at her face after it explodes while she is racing it(1st, rev limiter is your friend, use one! 2nd, manual valve body's have to be shifted!) on a happy note i now have a use for the brand new bone stock 305 i have had stashed for the last couple years....... Last edited by Skandolis; 02-03-2013 at 06:04 PM. |
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#39
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ive got my buddys father inlaw coming to help me try and figure it out on saturday. and yeah i meant the stuff that comes with the module lol. and it is all the v6 componets in a v8 dizzy housing. i just needed a new body because some screw holes were stripped on the v6 body. didnt feel like tapping holes. im not pulling any wiring until he comes by first. im starting to fear the the timing jumped and if thats the case. then i should have my tax return here in a few days so ill just use that to finish the 305. on that note....any
muffler suggestions? im thinking thrush.....flowmaster just seems to be too overplayed these days. especially since i saw a porche with flowmasters a week ago. |
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#40
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I believe you said 6 points on the magnetic star wheel .....can't see how it could work that way.....maybe I mis-read that...
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