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  #16  
Old 02-25-2013, 01:07 AM
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Yep i agree ,that stuff is MAGIC,i had a set of centrelines on one of my cars,a few years ago,and used that stuff,with little effort they came up like new...
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  #17  
Old 02-25-2013, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matty man View Post
What about the salt from the ice and snow??? It will dull them up quickly,,,, Matty man

I don't know I only put ice and salt in my Salty Dogs and never tried salt on my Snow Cones
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  #18  
Old 02-25-2013, 07:17 AM
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I went to Harbor Frt. and got some buffing cones, disc, pads, and a white buffing compound bar for alum. then I went to Home Depot to get a threaded rod and threaded coupling to make a shaft so I can use the drill and not hit the drill on the rims. I tried the 0000 steel wool on the back and it scuffed it up so I stopped. I have an extra set of mags as spares so I'm going full force on them and try the compound first.

One of the other members posted a thread o WD40 that stuff works I had some overspray on one of my sills and it took off the paint with no effort so I put some on one rim and it took all the surface film off just by wiping it on. I can tell this is going to be a slick and easy way to get stubborn hard to clean and hard to get to items anywhere on my truck and under the hood .

One other thing the WD40 took all the black stuff out of the pitted holes in the rim with just a wipe that was nice no rubbing.

Once I find the thread whoever posted WD40 deserves a REP!!!!!!!! ON THIS FIND IT CLEANS AWHSOME SO YOU CAN USE IT ON THE ENTIRE TRUCK CAN'T HURT ANYTHING BUT I DON'T THINK YOU SHOULD US IT ON CARPET. JUST READ THE CAN

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  #19  
Old 02-25-2013, 07:33 AM
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Here's the thread on WD40



http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showt...highlight=WD40
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  #20  
Old 02-25-2013, 01:15 PM
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JUST SAW THIS.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

WD40 is conductive, flammable, and it dissolves plastics if left on. Found the first and last by accident, have yet to prove the flammable part though.

PFlo/Paul
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  #21  
Old 02-25-2013, 03:25 PM
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On wd-40, I repair home sliding glass doors & it RUINS the fuzzy & vinyl weatherstrips & collects dirt , which can do more harm than good. It ain't for everything. It can be a useful product though in aluminum cutting, sanding & even cleanup.

On metal buffing, stick to metal buffing products,not the paint products. IF your surface is rough,Then some type of sanding can benefit in the final result, BUT it will need to be buffed with compound to progressively get rid of the scratches. it's up to you how agressive you think you need to start with a buffing project, but not agresive enough to start just wastes time in the long run. If you think 2000 grit is too rough, try rubbing the paper together to (kill) some of the grit, which will make it finer. I usually start with tripoli brown compound, then white, then metal polishes. I personally wouldn't rub steel wool on aluminum, fragments of steel could embed in the soft metal.

There are 2 schools of thought on bringing totally dull aluminum to a polish. One is stopping at a rougher sandpaper grit & going to brown, then white polish. The other line of thought is sanding much finer , then going to a liquid metal polish. Both methods can get you there, it's all about time spent & the correct rougher to progressively finer steps. As opposed to paint, with a thick metal wheel, you can sand harshly if needed (as in getting rid of a deep scratch) & not run out of material, so don't be scrared to ruin it.It'll just take longer to get back to smooth.Once you achieve a truely smooth finish , you can stick with the least agressive products, Mothers billet polish being the finest.

I still recommend you give the white diamond polish a try,it has a lot of cleaning solvent in it. I had a hard time getting a final shine on my hand fabbed air intake, which started as SCRAP metal. If this doesn't inspire you , I don't know what will.
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Last edited by jlcustomz; 02-25-2013 at 03:32 PM.
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  #22  
Old 02-25-2013, 05:05 PM
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The Mother's polishing balls have been available at our local O'Reilly's.
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  #23  
Old 02-25-2013, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblanche View Post
The Mother's polishing balls have been available at our local O'Reilly's.
I heard their junk and fall apart Oreilly's has them on sale . I wanted a cloth one but I can only find them online.
Thanks




jlcustomz

I didn't see your post first but last night I got the brown and white compound bars but first I cleaned a rim with WD40 then washed it off and then used 0000 steel wool that works getting the scratches and anything else off and looks 90% better with no effort so far. Next I will polish it with some 205 polish and see what I get.

Thanks
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  #24  
Old 02-26-2013, 07:10 AM
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I will try some bullet polish also. If that doesn't bring it out then I think I will call Original Wheels down here and see how much it would be to have them refinished can't be much and that's all they do. I like to do it myself first to get the satisfaction knowing I can do it

Here's my test wheel you can tell the difference so far from the bottom of the rim I did and the dull center so it works and I will start on the ones that are on the truck now instead of wasting time on this one.




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  #25  
Old 03-04-2013, 08:36 AM
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Flitz has a 3 different size cloth balls..I'm waiting on the 5" one now along with the hard to get Flitz metal polish...There's a video on utube that shows how well they work.I'll let you know...
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  #26  
Old 03-04-2013, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bugsyc View Post
Flitz has a 3 different size cloth balls..I'm waiting on the 5" one now along with the hard to get Flitz metal polish...There's a video on utube that shows how well they work.I'll let you know...


I have one coming orange with a long shaft. $34.00
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  #27  
Old 03-04-2013, 02:46 PM
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i kind of became a pro at shining all things from brass buckles to shoes to cloth belts when i was at a military college. after shining pretty much anything there was always the chance that upperclassmen might take your belt buckle and scratch it up on concrete just to make you re do it. we would always just work our way from 800 to 2000 grit, then use a rubbing compound called "Blue Magic"(it is by far the best thing ive ever used for metal polishing) under a piece of printer paper, then blue magic with a good quality shine cloth, rinse and repeat. but naturally any protective coating is gone after this. i used a dremel with a polishing pad a few times as well but couldnt get as good of a result, probably just bc if you got anything on the pad it would scuff your surface. all in all BLUE MAGIC AND ELBOW GREASE
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  #28  
Old 03-04-2013, 02:50 PM
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and jlz, from what ive seen in other posts you do most of your stuff your self, all of which is impressive. that hoods awesome!
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  #29  
Old 03-12-2014, 08:13 PM
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this guy is the king of detail
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  #30  
Old 03-12-2014, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buick83t View Post
this guy is the king of detail

You see the one with the Old English polish on the peeling clear coat????


Look by the bottom of this thread I have the video.


http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=48556
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