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  #31  
Old 07-14-2016, 01:19 PM
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Cutting ground clearance is not something I will consider doing.
I want my wife and son to drive my car and not have to even mention anything about being careful about what to drive over.
I don't want to think about it either. I've done it before on another car and never again.
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1983 Choo Choo SS w/1996 LT1 and 4L60E
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  #32  
Old 07-14-2016, 02:28 PM
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yea, i hear that. i don't want to be worried about, am i gonna scrap cause of that pot hole or speed bump, etc. the plan is getting back on the road before Christmas and i can report back then how the clearance issues are going. Or if anyone else has this set up on the road and can tell us how theirs is doing
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  #33  
Old 11-19-2016, 07:58 AM
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I am still trying to figure out which headers I want for my '96 LT1 powered '83 Choo Choo.

Looking at headers made for D port heads, I think this is my #1 choice right now. The Hedman 66609.

I've looked at the full-length Dougs D336 but I found a forum thread showing the fit in a '79 Malibu and it looks just too tight for me.

The Shoenfeld shown earlier in this thread won't work for me because I'm retaining the original A/C evaporator housing.

The Hedman 66609 are advertised to fit in a 5th Gen El Camino with and auto or manual. My only concern if there's any issue with the passenger side motor mount location and the low mounted A/C compressor.
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  #34  
Old 11-19-2016, 07:13 PM
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I had relatively new Flowtech afterburner headers on the '84 original 305, and reused those headers on the LT1.
They really don't hang low to reduce ground clearance.
I got a bracket to relocate the AC compressor back to the original location, driver's side high, so I can't say whether they would clear the original Caprice location.
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  #35  
Old 04-20-2017, 04:02 PM
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My new Hedman 66609 "D" port headers will be here on Monday along with a Pypes X-pipe header back kit.
I'll give a report of how it goes here when I get them on. I hope the fit OK.
I also hope it's a noticeable improvement on my LT1 that's been running the original 305 exhaust manifolds and single exhaust.
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  #36  
Old 04-20-2017, 07:09 PM
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Looking forward to your findings. I did my system with the body off and it was quite straightforward. I went with the 3" system with x pipe and race pro mufflers wich are supposed to be the quietest.



One thing we did was replace all the u-bolt exhaust clamps supplied by pypes with band clamps.




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  #37  
Old 04-21-2017, 11:15 AM
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Nice!

Did you narrow the rear? Can you give the specifics on your tires and wheels?
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  #38  
Old 05-13-2017, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RGSS View Post
Looking forward to your findings. I did my system with the body off and it was quite straightforward. I went with the 3" system with x pipe and race pro mufflers wich are supposed to be the quietest.
Finally got this all done. The Hedman 66609 fit great!
No out of the ordinary issues at all. Stock spark plug wires work fine. I am going to have to get a new A/C compressor manifold and make new hoses but I don't think I will have any issues. I'm going to redo all the A/C lines and upgrade to a parallel flow condenser with the outlets on the passenger side. Already bought it and just need to put my hose order together. I'm going to use reduced barrier hose for an easier install at the compressor. It will be tight quarters there.









The exhaust system was a lot of work. Very time consuming. Don't anybody think this is easy because it's a kit. It takes a bunch of fitting to make it go in perfect. Many iterations of mocking up and adjusting connections. I've got lots of hours in this.

I did do a couple of things that made it harder in that I used shorty headers and about the largest muffler that can fit into the space they go in. (They are Dynamax Super Hemi Turbo mufflers 17748.) I also cut off the tailpipe tips because Pypes angle cuts them and I didn't like that at all. I put straight cut ones on and polished them too (had enough extra pipe for them). For making the custom angles behind the headers and at the rear of the mufflers, I used a U bend in 2 1/2" stainless that I bought from Jegs. I cut them and then ground them little by little in order to get the angles I needed perfect.

Every joint is welded and since I didn't use stainless wire, I painted all of them with ceramic exhaust paint so the welds wouldn't rust. I welded in a V band clamps in the rear of the mufflers. I also put hangers in front of the mufflers for support.









Can R&R if needed. Just connects in 3 places (headers, hangers and tail pipes). A floor jack at the balance point and it's very easy.







Moved the shift rod to the outboard side of the swing arm and ground the head of the bolt a little for extra clearance. No problem at all.











Did not cut ground clearance at all:



I'm not ready to start or drive the car yet. I've got the gas tank out and doing some upgrades there. I'm installing an in-tank pump. I'm also replacing all the gas lines as I didn't like the way I did them when I originally installed the engine.

Last edited by roger1; 05-13-2017 at 04:20 PM.
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  #39  
Old 05-24-2017, 07:58 AM
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I'm still probably a week away from being able to try out my new headers. I did finish the A/C hose rearrangement to clear the header tube on the back of the compressor. That took some doing but I think it came out fine. I ended up replacing all my A/C hoses, condenser and accumulator with this job too. I also used reduced diameter barrier hose and connectors for the suction and discharge lines. They made the job a lot easier. You need all the room you can get on the back of the compressor.

I bought a new Camaro condenser that is parallel flow and has the connections on the passenger side instead of the driver side. It fits perfect with on a couple of quick and simple modifications.

I also got an accumulator for a different application. It's the same except the suction connection is at the top instead of on the bottom so that funky wrap around tube isn't needed.

I bought this swivel type of compressor manifold:



I had to modify it some by grinding on the both the suction fitting and the holder on the manifold to allow the fitting to swing further past vertical. Otherwise, the hose elbow fitting was too close to the header tube.

Here's a photo with the header temporarily installed and before I made the modification:



After I made did the grinding and allowing it to swing further, there's about 1/2" of clearance there:



There's just about no way to tighten everything properly without removing the header. Here's a shot of the compressor with the header out of the way:



Here's that accumulator. Much better setup for an LT1 and headers.



This next photo shows the condenser tubes coming off the passenger side. I put the high-side port fitting on this end of the discharge hose and a switch port on the liquid line for the trinary switch. The original setup only had one port on the other end of the liquid line.



I ran into another glitch with these headers in that the head ports for temperature sensors are just about impossible to use.
I was using both ports too. One for the Dakota VHX gauges and the other for a switch to control my electric radiator fans.

To solve, I moved the Dakota sender down to the LT1's water drain hole on the driver side. It's on the block in the middle right above the oil pan lip. I don't see any problem using that for a sender and there's plenty of room down there.
For the issue of where to put a fan switch, I have on order a Dakota Digital PAC-2750 fan controller. It integrates into the Dakota gauge controller and uses data from it's sensor. This will also allow me to run a 3-relay, 2-speed system for the dual radiator fans.
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  #40  
Old 06-01-2017, 07:23 AM
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First test drive with new headers.

Oh yeah. It's faster.
I sure like these Super Hemi Turbo Mufflers.


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