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  #31  
Old 03-21-2017, 06:08 AM
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Question: Does the "lifter tick" get quieter as the engine warms up? If so, 99% chance the it is the exhaust manifold leaking. Spray penetrating oil on all of the exhaust manifold bolts, wait 24 hrs if possible for the stuff to do its magic and tighten the bolts/nuts. IT'S FREE!!


Step 2: Change oil/filter and use Rislone. It should be done especially if the car has been "sitting" for an extended length of time.
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  #32  
Old 03-21-2017, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xlchjoe View Post
Same rocker? Stud pulling out? Bad locking nut?
Yeah. If true, you have a mechanical problem.
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  #33  
Old 03-21-2017, 06:30 PM
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Pull the valve covers. Who knows what you'll find.
I found #3 exhaust rocker arm sitting sideways on the stud. Replaced the rocker arm and all adjustment nuts on both sides. Readjusted the valves and 8,000 miles later still no noise. Engine is 30 years and 150,000+ miles old.
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  #34  
Old 03-22-2017, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Pull the valve covers. Who knows what you'll find.
x2
.
.
what is
Quote:
crushing a hydraulic lifter just to "shut it up"
once a lifter/rocker starts ticking the time bomb fuse is already lit,
usually its not going to get better on its own..

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  #35  
Old 04-09-2017, 10:55 AM
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I would change the oil.
Lifters start talking 2 you when oils low or old, to thin.
Out of time.
VAC leak.
leaky exaust.
Or when cam bearing gets worn starts having blow by oil doesnt quite
pump up lifter.
Good ways to tell
oil pressure goes from 32 psi starts climbing to 50 psi depending on miles.
Vac pressure on new motor should be 20
15 is still good 10 time to tear down.
and see whats up or compression test.
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  #36  
Old 04-09-2017, 12:34 PM
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Alonza, can you explain??

Quote:
Out of time.
VAC leak.
Good ways to tell oil pressure goes from 32 psi starts climbing to 50 psi depending on miles.
Vac pressure on new motor should be 20 15 is still good 10 time to tear down.
and see whats up or compression test.
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  #37  
Old 04-13-2017, 09:09 AM
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Ok, well I did the following.

1. Motor Flush, oil change.
2. Added Rislone

Only run it about 100 miles max since then. But here is the odd thing.

I Do have an oil pressure gauge and got it hooked up again after the inital electrical meltdown. Shows good pressure but I am suspect.

The Ticking/Tapping is easily heard right next to #1 and from below the engine....near the water pump. But it is loudest at the valve cover.

Newest development. The ticking is NOT present at start up. It begins about 5 minutes after running.


So next step check the Manifold, take off the valve cover look at the rods?

Here is how she sounds at start up.
https://youtu.be/3YzKTOpeSt8
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  #38  
Old 04-13-2017, 12:53 PM
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Just added :

Oil pressure at idle from the gauge is about 15-20 psi, Mostly 20, under high RPM 50psi.

Did the screwdriver and the tick seem loudest not on the valve cover but on the manifold...just over #1
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  #39  
Old 04-13-2017, 01:12 PM
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I was chasing the same sound on my motor and it ended up being a header gasket blown out couldn't tell until I unbolted the header. I would try that going forward and inspect the gasket real good if its still good then install and tighten the header bolts after a few times running until they feel tight.

I also have a cam go bad and round a lifter so my top end got redone I had the heads rebuilt and installed cam lifters and springs and now just added all new exhaust and headers.

I know how frustrating that could be but I would say unbolt the header and look at the gasket both sides you can put it back on if its fine. Then if its good prepare to pop the valve cover off and adjust the valves.

Good Luck and let us know what happens
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  #40  
Old 04-13-2017, 04:42 PM
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X2 on adjusting the valves.
I've been wrenching small-block Chevys since 1969, everything from fresh 410 race engines to 100k+ beaters and I've done the process on every flat-tappet SBC I've owned over 50k miles. Once you've got a pretty good idea it's actually a lifter tick, adjusting the valves is easy and cheap. One turn on a rocker stud is .041 inches, not an unreal amount of wear to expect on a lifter and rocker arm. I like to set hydraulics at 1/2 turn past zero lash, doing it 1/4 turn at a time so the engine doesn't stall at idle. There are diagrams in any decent service manual showing where to position the crankshaft to set the valves with the engine off, but I feel it's better to do it with the motor running at idle. There are also some cheap rocker arm clips available to minimize the oil splash and some "gutters" formed from aluminum foil will also help keep the mess down. If you're not comfortable with the process, find someone to do it, as it shouldn't be expensive. If you decide to pursue it yourself, post up any questions.

Bill

Last edited by BillyJack; 04-13-2017 at 04:48 PM.
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  #41  
Old 04-20-2017, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillyJack View Post
X2 on adjusting the valves.
I've been wrenching small-block Chevys since 1969, everything from fresh 410 race engines to 100k+ beaters and I've done the process on every flat-tappet SBC I've owned over 50k miles. Once you've got a pretty good idea it's actually a lifter tick, adjusting the valves is easy and cheap. One turn on a rocker stud is .041 inches, not an unreal amount of wear to expect on a lifter and rocker arm. I like to set hydraulics at 1/2 turn past zero lash, doing it 1/4 turn at a time so the engine doesn't stall at idle. There are diagrams in any decent service manual showing where to position the crankshaft to set the valves with the engine off, but I feel it's better to do it with the motor running at idle. There are also some cheap rocker arm clips available to minimize the oil splash and some "gutters" formed from aluminum foil will also help keep the mess down. If you're not comfortable with the process, find someone to do it, as it shouldn't be expensive. If you decide to pursue it yourself, post up any questions.

Bill


Thank Bill, this is exactly what I intend to try after visual inspection of the rockers and rods.

BUT also need to change the belts, so will do most of this one day.....any suggestion on where to find those clips?


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  #42  
Old 04-21-2017, 06:07 AM
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here ya go:

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-101...cker+arm+clips

Bill
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  #43  
Old 04-21-2017, 06:10 AM
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https://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1015/

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-101.../dp/B000BW8VK8

https://www.amazon.com/JEGS-Performa...KS1JWQAA45AH18

http://www.rockerclips.com/

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  #44  
Old 04-24-2017, 06:31 PM
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Didnt mean to leave you hangin.
timing to far advanced pinging type bad gas ok im alittle tone def.
not refering to vac pressure so much as to what creates it say you got a intake
valve not opening say broke stud vac pressure will get iratic vac pressure will
drop to 14 or so compression on that cylinder will drop to about 80 psi
and you will have a knock cracked valve seat same jumping vac pressure.
when you have new motor 20 pounds vac ,160000 thousand miles vac should be 19-18.
got a knock throw vac gage on it if its normal,its your header leaking,
spec on 98 percent of oil pumps 32 psi few high outputs are more even deisels
your lifter knock.
valve a little out of adjustment,lifter will still be in spec enough to pump up and adapt to adjustment.
bearing wear,
cam bearings start having blowby hence the oil pressure will rise above its norm
showing higher readings and not pumping up the lifter giving you a lifter knock.
people look for low pressure but they should be looking for higher pressure.
old oil same thing.
Some times im a little dislexik .
ill give the question before the answer .
when i should give the answer before and the reason after.
and yeh the ting ping was out there a little bit LOL
but the other is text book sorry.
one finger typing drives every body nuts throws me off.again sorry
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  #45  
Old 04-25-2017, 07:42 AM
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probably has paper gaskets and headers .
paper burns out tightening wont help .
buy copper gaskets.
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