1970 Sound System Speaker Mounting - Page 2 - El Camino Central Forum : Chevrolet El Camino Forums
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  #16  
Old 06-19-2017, 07:06 AM
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My dash has been hacked around the radio.
There is a relatively new head unit, yet I can't get sound from it to kick panel speakers.
A 16 year old or HkdUp87, who is younger than me, may be able to fix it in under 15 minutes.

With 3 inch exhaust and dronemaster 40 clone mufflers, not likely I would turn it on while driving.

Technology has changed.
I have considered removing the head unit and putting a solid panel in to replace it.
Then moving the under dash gauges into that area.
I would change the power outlet (lighter) position and possibly add to it for charging devices.

If I later want sound, I may eventually buy a phone with blue tooth.
I can run a very small amp from behind seat to the 2 kick panels then.
No head unit would be required.
These will likely integrate with phone controls and with voice activation soon.

With ears damaged from gas powered turbine noise, more than 2 speakers is a waste on me in a small cab.

Till then I have the full base of headers and low mid tones of the dual droning bagpiped exhausts.
All topped off by the wonderful constantly changing upper treble tones of whistling piccolos of the passenger quarter window.
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  #17  
Old 06-19-2017, 09:06 AM
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7x7x7 boxes 3m taped to the rear wall.
filled with JL AUDIO 6 inch speakers
amp under the seat velcro to the carpet
self contained mini sub in smugglers insert.
original spare and jack in original location.
center dash Dual voice coil to handle the front.


NOT ONE HOLE CUT OR DRILLED

AMP


boxes blank


added some metal for the tape to stick






self powered sub
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  #18  
Old 06-19-2017, 12:03 PM
arcsine arcsine is offline
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Name: Gary Carlton
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I mounted 6x9 speakers and an amp on a hardwood-surfaced plywood panel that is mounted to the rear window ledge. The plywood sheet is connected to the window ledge with hefty screws and a wedge sits on the driveline tunnel and supports the plywood from the bottom to take the load off the ledge/screws. I built a sub box out of the same plywood panel which sits on the floor behind the passenger seat. I'll get some pictures tonight and post them tomorrow.
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  #19  
Old 06-19-2017, 10:57 PM
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Name: Alice Patricia Arthington
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Year: 1970
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Bear View Post
My dash has been hacked around the radio.
There is a relatively new head unit, yet I can't get sound from it to kick panel speakers.
A 16 year old or HkdUp87, who is younger than me, may be able to fix it in under 15 minutes.

With 3 inch exhaust and dronemaster 40 clone mufflers, not likely I would turn it on while driving.

Technology has changed.
I have considered removing the head unit and putting a solid panel in to replace it.
Then moving the under dash gauges into that area.
I would change the power outlet (lighter) position and possibly add to it for charging devices.

If I later want sound, I may eventually buy a phone with blue tooth.
I can run a very small amp from behind seat to the 2 kick panels then.
No head unit would be required.
These will likely integrate with phone controls and with voice activation soon.

With ears damaged from gas powered turbine noise, more than 2 speakers is a waste on me in a small cab.

Till then I have the full base of headers and low mid tones of the dual droning bagpiped exhausts.
All topped off by the wonderful constantly changing upper treble tones of whistling piccolos of the passenger quarter window.
I looking at the retro radio because it can do satellite radio, Blue Tooth, dual usb, dual 3.5" Aux Inputs. lots options really. I like your 100% wireless idea too.

really sorry to hear about your hearing lose. that really sucks but at least u can hear some.
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  #20  
Old 06-19-2017, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robpp View Post
7x7x7 boxes 3m taped to the rear wall.
filled with JL AUDIO 6 inch speakers
amp under the seat velcro to the carpet
self contained mini sub in smugglers insert.
original spare and jack in original location.
center dash Dual voice coil to handle the front.


NOT ONE HOLE CUT OR DRILLED

AMP
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...psnr9j1pn5.jpg

boxes blank
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps208e58eb.jpg

added some metal for the tape to stick
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...pslbwcefwx.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...pswwrnfqie.jpg

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps4iunujhd.jpg

self powered sub
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...ps3be94d0a.jpg
I like the install and photos. yours is first I seen where the tire is still installed. maybe ill get a Pair of sealed 6"x9" truck-style enclosures and mount them like u did so I can keep my spare tire. the amp I'm looking at can easily mount behind the dash because designed to connect to the head unit and give 45w x4.

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  #21  
Old 06-19-2017, 11:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcsine View Post
I mounted 6x9 speakers and an amp on a hardwood-surfaced plywood panel that is mounted to the rear window ledge. The plywood sheet is connected to the window ledge with hefty screws and a wedge sits on the driveline tunnel and supports the plywood from the bottom to take the load off the ledge/screws. I built a sub box out of the same plywood panel which sits on the floor behind the passenger seat. I'll get some pictures tonight and post them tomorrow.
I can't wait to see the photos. sounds like what I was thinking but with a contained box attached to the wall. really want to keep spare tire and good sound and it seams the options are counter intuitive.

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  #22  
Old 06-19-2017, 11:29 PM
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Higher powered stereos can draw enough power to require expensive upgrades to the alternator and charging systems.
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  #23  
Old 06-20-2017, 05:42 AM
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AliceSML79 AliceSML79 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2017
Name: Alice Patricia Arthington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Bear View Post
Higher powered stereos can draw enough power to require expensive upgrades to the alternator and charging systems.
thats why I wanted to stay below 50w per Chanel, the amp I chose is a 45w/4. but was planing on a small upgrade to a 100-120 amp alternator and a optima yellow top just in case.
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  #24  
Old 06-20-2017, 06:36 AM
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If you do run a higher amp alternator you need to upgrade the main charge wire to the battery.

I just upraded mine from 12ga. to 6ga. Big difference, now puts out more amps at idle than it did running down the road before.
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  #25  
Old 06-20-2017, 01:00 PM
robpp robpp is offline
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i went from my stock 37amp alternator to a 61AMP from an A/C car.
added a wells VR715 Electronic regulator.

handled all my power needs.

and I have all original wiring and harnesses,
of course stereo was all run new.
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  #26  
Old 06-20-2017, 01:26 PM
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AliceSML79 AliceSML79 is offline
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I'm looking at the 100 amp Proform 664451N Alternator "Chrome 1-Wire Alternator; GM; 100 Percent New; 100 Amp; Internal Regulator; One Wire; 1966-86; Chrome Finish". still looking for good cables. of corse this is all dependent on me getting a elk with a 5.7 350 motor too.

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  #27  
Old 06-21-2017, 09:48 AM
arcsine arcsine is offline
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Here is what I have done.
https://goo.gl/photos/XHNAFnmdYWckjcZ86
The maple-faced plywood panel holds the speakers, amp and electrical circuit panel. The electrical feed is direct from the battery, through a 150 amp breaker and then to the panel. From there power is fed to the fuses and to the relays. I am using the ignition to switch 'ON' one of the relays that in turn feeds an 'ON' signal to relays for the tach, voltmeter, stereo, dash-tail-driving lights and headlights. With this setup, when the key goes off, all the lights go off as well so I can never leave the lights on when I walk away. The sub-box is a hastily slapped together piece that was needed because the box the Kicker sub came with was too wide to fit in the footwell. I have installed a 100 amp 'one-wire' alternator as well. The pile of wires seen below the passenger-side speaker is a noise suppression choke I just installed to combat some ignition noise I was hearing. It works perfect but I have not had the time to finish the installation and place the choke behind the panel. Lastly a fire extinguisher is mounted to the plywood behind the drivers seat.
I hope this helps.
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  #28  
Old 06-21-2017, 11:02 AM
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Gary
That's a nice looking copper '70 in your GARAGE.
Make sure to take it somewhere nice for a photoshoot for the 2018 Calendars.
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  #29  
Old 06-21-2017, 11:57 AM
arcsine arcsine is offline
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Like some of these?
https://goo.gl/photos/4PSt6Q6SYnu3GviM6
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  #30  
Old 06-21-2017, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arcsine View Post
Really nice

Alice, take a look, that is a really nice color combination for a '70. It even has similar rims to what you were considering.
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