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System Advice (head unit and kick panels)

4K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  teamcurtis 
#1 ·
I just got a 64 and Im looking to upgrade the stereo a bit and could use some input as to
What headunit to get (single din or retro sound original dash)
Which speakers to power with the amp (6.5 or 6x9)

I have...
-1 JL audio W1v2 sub in a sealed box (10")
-Kendwood 4 channel amp. (50x4 rms or 180x2 rms)
Variable high-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
-Plastic kick panels with 6 1/2 speakers
-plates behind the seats with 6x9 speakers
-a crappy head unit in the glove box

My music choices are all over the map, but i prefer tight hitting bass to low rolling bass

I plan on running one set of speakers with the head unit, the sub and the other set with the amp.

Question 1
I'm torn between getting a mid/low level traditional single din head unit in the glove box, vs putting a retro sound stereo in the original dash spot.
A single din will have preamp outputs specifically for the sub. Will this make a big difference with the amp Im running?

Question 2
Do I put more power to the front speakers or will those plastic kick plates just flex if i drive a real speaker in that spot?
Ill prob replace which ever set of speakers I the amp to.

Ive had this amp running the same sub before and a set of component speakers and I liked the way it sounded. Im also only looking to spend a few hundred dollars.
 
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#3 ·
I just got a 64 and Im looking to upgrade the stereo a bit and could use some input as to
What headunit to get (single din or retro sound original dash)
Which speakers to power with the amp (6.5 or 6x9)

I have...
-1 JL audio W1v2 sub in a sealed box (10")
-Kendwood 4 channel amp. (50x4 rms or 180x2 rms)
Variable high-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
Variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
-Plastic kick panels with 6 1/2 speakers
-plates behind the seats with 6x9 speakers
-a crappy head unit in the glove box

My music choices are all over the map, but i prefer tight hitting bass to low rolling bass

I plan on running one set of speakers with the head unit, the sub and the other set with the amp.

Question 1
I'm torn between getting a mid/low level traditional single din head unit in the glove box, vs putting a retro sound stereo in the original dash spot.
A single din will have preamp outputs specifically for the sub. Will this make a big difference with the amp Im running?

Question 2
Do I put more power to the front speakers or will those plastic kick plates just flex if i drive a real speaker in that spot?
Ill prob replace which ever set of speakers I the amp to.

Ive had this amp running the same sub before and a set of component speakers and I liked the way it sounded. Im also only looking to spend a few hundred dollars.
I would say that the head unit is up to you, whatever your peferance is. I really like the aftermarket one, cause they have set up for rca amp output.
Plus some of them have bluetooth ability, so you can use your phones in your car without having to take it out of your pocket.

As to the more power in the front speakers, I would put the front ones to the head unit, and power the back speakers with the amp. That way you would get better sound, and not be overbearing in the front of the car.

The amp, if its a 4 channel, should have rca inputs for front and rear channels, just be sure your head unit has dual outputs for the amp too. eiher front and rear or sub with another output will do just fine.

Good luck with the project.
 
#4 ·
thanks for the reply.
so i guess i should be more specific

1) do any of the retro look units have good sound? (i know they all have 2 sets of rca out)
2) some units have 3 sets of RCA (front rear sub) some are just 2 sets and you use rear for the sub. Is a sub specific rca any better than using a rear?
 
#5 ·
if you want tight fast bass try a 10 inch sub and be sure to follow the rules of amp wiring, never run the power anywhere near signal wires, you may be able to use your stock head if you like its features and the just run everything into a four Chanel amp and a mono block for the sub some amps have a high level input that will take the wires from the original speakers then output a higher power so you can go from a 12 or so watt to more like 55 + for each speaker, also be sure to match the ohm rating of the speaker to the ohm rating of the amp.
 
#6 ·
Audio will always be an opinionated subject, here's a few of mine.
Though I've never owned a retrosound type reciever, I think their geared more twoards non audiophile type people. I prefer a high end aftermarket reciever to do more of what I want. there are even some of them that you can hide the unit. I'm also old school in that I like an external passive eq with lots of control(real knobs), but that's just me. More sound control IS better, such as sub specific for sub.

On amps, I prefer those with a truer power rating & a large amp can be kept at a lower input level to keep distortion down. Big amps can give cleaner sound, not just louder.Speakers last longer with clean sound.Amps are always best run off a good rca signal as opposed to a high level signal which has more distortion from radio's amp.
For front kick panel speakers, I prefer component ones such as infinity kappa with separate tweeters which can be better aimed.
On rear 6x 9 s, separate the back of the speaker's airspace from the front, even if it's something simple such as carpet to do so.
On subs, sealed boxes are the tightest sounding, but not the loudest.Good boxes help. I did a downfiring setup in the 83 elco in the smugglers area.
On budget some places are always cheaper than others on good stuff, one local shop near me is cheaper than best buy on better versions of the same brands. I have some stuff from pawn shops, some from re-using. Have a 1988 infinity rsa450 amp still wearing out subs in my work truck. You can always improve & add on to a system later, better amp(s) , better speakers.
Hope this gives you some direction.
 
#8 ·
im not sure what to say to be more clear as to the advice im looking for

I have the amp, the sub and the box i will be using.

The questions are
1) a vintage look vs normal aftermarket headunit in the glove box.
sound
 
#9 ·
grrrrr stupid computer

questions
1) a vintage look unit vs normal headunit int he glove box
-sound quality of the vintage styles
-is a true sub rca output any better than just using a rear channel rca output

2) which speakers to drive with the amp.
-one set will be run with the head unit, the other with the amp?
-can the plastic kickpannels house a good component speaker or will they just rattle and flex?
 
#10 ·
1 -Look is a matter of personal opinion. the retrostyled units don't REALLY look like an original radio anyway &are not as good of a sound quality as many of your normal units.
And yes, get a true sub output for a sub, most have independant volume level control & crossover control(usually 80/120 hz,some have more features to better control bass level sounds).

2- Plastic boxes should be fine, if not use some sound dampening material in them.Using what you have(4 channel amp) ,I'd run the sub off 2 channels, rear off other 2 channels, front off head unit for now, & consider later on getting a better amp for sub & using the kenwood for front & rear.

Sorry if I didn't properly answer you questions the first time{I kinda did). Was also trying to give you a little general advice based on 30 years of loud stereos.:nana2:
 
#13 ·
1 -Look is a matter of personal opinion. the retrostyled units don't REALLY look like an original radio anyway &are not as good of a sound quality as many of your normal units.
And yes, get a true sub output for a sub, most have independant volume level control & crossover control(usually 80/120 hz,some have more features to better control bass level sounds).

The Retro Sound Model 2 has the Subwoofer output with crossover and level control. The video on the website has a run through of the features on the display screen. It looks identical to my "modern" Alpine as far as features.

I don't want to cut the dash in my 1981 El Camino....the Retro Sound seems like a logical choice.
 
#11 ·
cool thanks, your answers were more focused than others :)
hopefully this weekend ill pull the speakers that are intalled and see what quality they are. Head unit too. Its a clarion, but i have no idea what model so it could be ok or total crap.

if im replacing the speakers and speaker boards behind the seat anyway, would you recommed using 6x9s or 6.5 components back there (front will be 6.5 2 ways)
 
#12 ·
6x9s are fine( more speaker area, more mid bass). Just remember what I said about the backside of the speakers being sealed off from the front . 6x9's generally sound more natural with a larger airspace ,as they usually have a trunk for a backside.

Modern recievers do have more features for the money than they used to, my 1988 jvc for $379 from crutchfield had dolby c for the cassette player.:poke: Clarion has some good stuff, I have their parametric eq in my work truck, which has a volume control to use instead of the head unit's & cuts down on amp noise at low volume. Some less expensive brands have some good products. Pioneer premier series is one I see around here.
 
#15 ·
one of the companies is actually fairly local to me. perhaps ill go take a listen in person.
or even power it thru my car without installing it.

I agree about cutting the dash. i would only do a non retro look in the glove box. leaving the stock stereo in place
 
#16 ·
pulled the headunit in the glove box. it is a clarion, i wasnt smart enough to write down the model number, but there are no preamps so im assuming its very low end.

I think im going to do this in steps. Hook up a new head unit and see how good/bad the existing speakers sound before hooking up the sub and choosing new speakers
I may just buy 6.5 components and if they sound like crap in the front kickpanel enclosures, then rebuild the boards and put them back there in a box.
 
#17 ·
in looking at head units ive found 2 that seem to meet what im looking for
about 100 bucks, 3 sets of RCA outs, ipod control and an acutal name brand.

one has a better signal to noise (120 vs 105) the other has a highter voltage RCA out (2.5 vs 2)
sony 120 sig to noice 2 v RCA
kenwood 105 sig to noise 2.5 v RCA
thoughts on which is more important to overall sound quality as most of the sound with be post amp?
 
#18 ·
man i go back and forth on this...
All the negative reveiws of the retro look stereos ive seen are people NOT using a sepertage amp.
So im wondering how much interpretation of the signal a headunit really does before sending the signal to the amp. 95.5% of the music i will listen to will be sourced from an ipod
 
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