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  #46  
Old 05-18-2017, 10:57 AM
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Well, good luck with your new location and resolving your engine issues. You can pretty much figure out why I don't post much on this forum too.
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Can't wait to get it on the road.
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  #47  
Old 05-19-2017, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by novelle View Post
Well, good luck with your new location and resolving your engine issues. You can pretty much figure out why I don't post much on this forum too.
If they only knew how much you could contribute to this forum. Oh well life goes on. See you tonight I need some advice before we go racing.
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  #48  
Old 05-19-2017, 09:19 AM
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http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showp...1&postcount=12
http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showp...5&postcount=35

well ??

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  #49  
Old 05-19-2017, 09:31 PM
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Here's a member that just responded to the vacuum gauge info we recommended .

vacuum tester

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I went to pick up my harbor freight and they couldn't find any of the 4 they said they had so I called a friend and he lent me his Dad's tester(made in usa). Couldn't believe that.

I warmed the engine up before I hooked the gauge up.

I put it on between the pcv valve and the inlet on the carb. I went and started it and the needle fell in the red region for late ign timimg and then slowly fell into the green area. The needle was about a sixteenth of a inch off the late ign timing red area.

I'm guessing I need to check my timing, and vacuum advance.

What do you think Robert and Dale.

Thanks for the info on the tool. By the way the manager at Harbor Frieght apologized and gave me the 25% off deal and I said Thank You Sir.

I believe you put me on to a better tool than my tools I already have.

I'm gonna run the Elky and put 15 or 20 miles on it tomorrow to get it warmed up good and then put the vacuum tester on it and check again. Hopefully my neice can help me with a video and I'll post a video.

Thanks Geno.

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  #50  
Old 06-05-2017, 09:37 PM
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Ben
How are you making out with moving the family?
Were you able to get the El Camino running better?
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  #51  
Old 06-05-2017, 11:25 PM
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I agree with starting simple, and vacuum leaks sound like the likely culprit. Check every hose on the engine, spray carb cleaner on the carb and base to see if it improves temporarily, which could mean a bad base gasket, PCV valve (remove it and hold your thumb on it). Once the easy and cheap things are checked, you can go from there.
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  #52  
Old 06-06-2017, 09:45 AM
68 elcam 68 elcam is offline
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I would have to agree with a lot of the guys here and would double check your vaccum lines if not have a better look at he carb. Bad jets?
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  #53  
Old 06-09-2017, 10:15 AM
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It's been awhile since I've been busy with work and everything. The move went real good, the car was a pain since it kept stalling trying to position the trailer to where it needed to be. But we made it work.

Because I've been working so much lately I had to drop the car off at a Carburetor place in Ventura, since I had no time to diagnose myself. Long story short, the EGR valve was jammed wide open and the throttle parts on the carb were completely shot.
So a new EGR valve and they rebuilt the carb fixed the problem. However, when they went to leak test it they found a crack on the back of the intake manifold. Still runs just fine, and I needed an excuse to swap an aluminum intake in.
Thanks to everyone for all the help, I did learn how to use the vacuum gauge and I'll be keeping it around for future fixes. Getting new shocks put it in today and I'll be saving up for the intake soon. She's coming together slowly but surely.
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  #54  
Old 06-09-2017, 12:01 PM
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wtg Ben

put some RTV on the crack and let it dry ~8 to 12 hours before you run it..

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  #55  
Old 06-09-2017, 06:08 PM
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You appear to be new to this, so, advice from an old guy who used to not know anything but knows a little now.

Get a Motor or Chilton`s manual to cover your model/year.

If it has been sitting and the carb is covered with cobwebs it probably needs cleaned and rebuilt.
Plug wires, all hoses, distributor cap and other areas are suspect.

Take the manual you get and just familiarize your self with the engine and it`s systems.
Relax, take a deep breath and take your time.
Good Luck and welcome.
JP
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  #56  
Old 06-09-2017, 06:11 PM
J.P.Jenny J.P.Jenny is offline
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Apparently I posted reply to wrong post, oh well!
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  #57  
Old 06-10-2017, 12:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJLT1 View Post
wtg Ben

put some RTV on the crack and let it dry ~8 to 12 hours before you run it..

What color??????
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  #58  
Old 06-10-2017, 12:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meta79 View Post
It's been awhile since I've been busy with work and everything. The move went real good, the car was a pain since it kept stalling trying to position the trailer to where it needed to be. But we made it work.

Because I've been working so much lately I had to drop the car off at a Carburetor place in Ventura, since I had no time to diagnose myself. Long story short, the EGR valve was jammed wide open and the throttle parts on the carb were completely shot.
So a new EGR valve and they rebuilt the carb fixed the problem. However, when they went to leak test it they found a crack on the back of the intake manifold. Still runs just fine, and I needed an excuse to swap an aluminum intake in.
Thanks to everyone for all the help, I did learn how to use the vacuum gauge and I'll be keeping it around for future fixes. Getting new shocks put it in today and I'll be saving up for the intake soon. She's coming together slowly but surely.

JB Weld would be a better choice RTV will peel off.
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  #59  
Old 06-11-2017, 08:38 PM
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Ben
With a 1979 in California, you are required to pass visual and tailpipe smog testing.
If you swap the intake manifold, make sure it is 50 state legal (which means the same as California legal).
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  #60  
Old 06-13-2017, 05:52 PM
bowtietruck bowtietruck is offline
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I think JJs first guess egr malfunctioning vac its tied into carb and exaust manifold with a check ball between egr and carb.
causes stalling.
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