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Old 05-09-2017, 09:04 AM
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Default Wiring Issue 83' El Camino 5.3L

Hello,

I have a 1983 El Camino, originally with the 229ci and I've swapped a 2001 5.3L from a suburban into it with a 4L80E.

I'm having some issues/confusion with the wiring. I got it started a few weeks ago, but have since rethought the wiring and am still a little unsure about how this is correctly done. I'm using the DIY fusebox that's shown on LT1Swap.

When I got it started, I had the below wires labeled Lights, Radio, etc AND Fuel Pump/Starter ran directly to the battery. These wires come from the stock wiring into the car. It didn't seem like these should be running directly to the battery, even though it worked. I only have these labeled because that's what they seemed to power based on my own trial and error.





I tried starting it with all of those sent to KEY ON (pink wire to the ignition). I tried a few variations of that, but the only way it worked was with all going directly to Battery.

There's one additional red wire and a brown wire that I've marked alternator indicator. I believe that powers the alternator indicator at the dash. It doesn't seem to effect starting based on where, or if these are hooked up at all.

Any advice on how these wires should be ran, or what in general I should do to figure this out? Maybe i'm just over thinking it and they all go to battery?

Thanks!
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Old 05-09-2017, 11:05 AM
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the big red wires with the fusible links power everything but the starter
ignition switch
fuse box [key off]
headlight switch
all the courticy acc's
they usually went to the battery terminal on the starter, you can tie them to the battery..

the alternator has 3 wires
charge wire on the back

the 2wire connector
brown is the excite wire, it turns the alt on with the key, and the alt dashlight..
sence wire ties to the big red wire from the batt/starter to sence the load and regulate the charge..

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Old 05-09-2017, 11:17 AM
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You are me hero. Thank you sir.
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  #4  
Old 05-09-2017, 11:30 AM
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some diagrams
http://www.maliburacing.com/wiring.html

check the
charge
ign switch
starter
lightswitch
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Old 05-09-2017, 04:58 PM
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One more question: how would you wire the brown/red wires to the new alternator?
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Old 05-09-2017, 09:30 PM
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i'm not real sure
some of the new alternators have 1wire or 2, some have 4 in the connector..
i guess it depends on the year, the alt number[121/130/144...] and wiring package it came with..
figgure out which alternator it is and do a search just for that one..

there are alternator swap harness adapters out there,, [in the links]
some are for gauges, and some are for idiot lights..

http://www.americanautowire.com/shop...onversion-kits

http://www.montecarloss.com/communit...219#Post493219

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/si-a...0d-176215.html

http://www.novaresource.org/alternator.htm

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Old 05-09-2017, 09:40 PM
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looks like a 2001 came with a AD230 or AD244 alternator ???
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/c...generator,2412

AD230 swap search
http://www.bing.com/search?q=AD230+a...ASU2JS&pc=EUPP_

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Old 05-09-2017, 11:35 PM
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So just to clarify: I'm using the 2001 5.3l harness and PCM. But you're saying I won't be using the connector that is currently on the 5.3L harness? I'll be using an adapter to connect it to the existing el camino wiring?
I trust you... just haven't heard that until now. But then again, I also haven't really looked into it.

I looked at the connector that's currently on the new alternator and it's a 2 pin. I'll have to look into the part number in the morning.

Thanks again. I appreciate the help.

**
I found this on another forum and it seems relatable. But I should have a better understanding tomorrow when I look at the alternator a little deeper.

Quote:
pin # 15 on the red connector for the ECU will have a brown wire that usually is the only wire that inputs the truck alt. sometimes there are two small alt. wires from the 5.3l harness, a brown and a pink, if there's a small pink wire that shares the same clip as the brown wire, it needs 12 volts to make the alt work. you can also use this for the "batt" or "alt" light in your dash, this would be the small original wire that went to your old alt. the big power post on the truck alt. needs to run to the batt., its your power wire to charge the batt. that usually goes to the big post on the starter, you should also have a bigger pink wire (factory main hot wire) that comes out of your firewall that is used to power up the cars dash and all the accessory's, this bigger pink or red wire also went to your original alt. or starter, it needs to go to the output of the 5.3l truck alt. or the big post on the 5.3l starter.
http://www.maliburacing.com/forum/vi...?f=29&t=115352

Last edited by alexTC; 05-10-2017 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 05-10-2017, 11:09 AM
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as said, not real sure
i was mostly just pointing out what the old car harness wires were for and
maybe a link to what the new alt connector wires went to or did, cause i dont know??

i have never done a LS swap, and i'm not sure of the big picture
i forget the pcm is tied to the alt nowdays..
there is probly more than one way to connect the 2 harnes's together
depending on how much of the LS harness you keep and use..
[some people use all the harness and the new dash and all]
there is probly a way to use the old or new harness and both work good..

i'm not sure where the LS harness charge wires go to..
in this link
http://lt1swap.com/99-02_vortec_pcm.htm
on the red connector there is a #15 looks like the excite wire to the alt from the ecm..
and a #52 generator field duty cycle signal, not sure where it goes to, or what it does??

seeing that i'd say you dont actually need the brown wire from the old harness to excite the alt,,
the alt should turn on with the brown from the pcm
but the alt dash light wont work,, i'd probly use a gauge dash with a volt meter..

the 2old red wires [the charge wire and sence wire] to the alt actually go to the same place,
they go on the load side of the red power wire from the starter battery term
to charge the battery, and control the old alt output..
http://www.maliburacing.com/wiring_d...rgeCircuit.jpg

as for the quote, im not for sure what it means??
Quote:
a brown and a pink, if there's a small pink wire that shares the same clip as the brown wire, it needs 12 volts to make the alt work.
i know there are guys that have done the swap on here..
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Old 05-10-2017, 03:14 PM
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Thanks for the follow up. I ran the two red wires with the fusible link to the starter and it seems to work.
I'm still digging into excite wire and charge wire, but this puts me in a much better place for now. I will make sure to post a follow up once I feel that I have a more certain answer on that.
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Old 05-10-2017, 04:49 PM
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I don't have it in me right now to get my head fully back into wiring mode, but I will tell you this. Truck systems should be extremely similar to the ls car systems, which require I think a 5 volt signal from pcm to excite alternator. A 12 volt signal to alternator can burn it up almost instantly, so I've read on several threads over the years on ls1tech,com. My 99'ls1 has one small red wire from pcm to the 4 point connector& I have a 143 amp I think it is alternator from a 2004 pickup, which works great with the 1 small wire at the connector.
And yeah, you will need a voltmeter, just hook it up to a switched 12 volt signal from the dash. I went with all autometer gauges when I did my ls swap back in 02' with the electric speedo & the tach set on 4 cyl mode.
On alternator output, I connected to output from old harness and ran a 2nd large wire directly to battery, which really should have a fuseable link in it in case of a bad alternator short out.

As far as actual integration of the newer harness into older vehicle , it can be done different ways. When I did my tpi swap years ago, I had it all tied into the fusebox like the factory would have. Was a pain to remove later. My ls system is modded from a stock harness into a stand alone aetup. It mainly just gets 12 volt power from the stock system in both full time & switched locations. Has a few add in relays to power up the computer, fuel pump & a few things including the starter signal so there is only a small power draw needed from the ignition switch . also have a vats bypass module, which isn't needed if it's programmed out of the computer. My aftermarket gauges get their signals directly from ls harness.

No one correct way to do this ,,,,,,,
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Last edited by jlcustomz; 05-10-2017 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 05-12-2017, 12:31 AM
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So I made a stupid decision and cut off the fusible links, not knowing what they did at the time, which I now understand.

Could I put a couple inline fuses in their place? 50a?
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Old 05-12-2017, 04:55 AM
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yes, most of the time that would be fine,
or replace the fusible links, or manual reset circuit breakers..

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Old 05-12-2017, 10:46 AM
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You can get fusible link wire in bulk from auto parts stores, then splice it into the big red wires from starter to fuse block.
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Old 05-15-2017, 09:57 AM
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I got some new fusible wires and connected most everything. My voltmeter measured 14.4 on the alternator which is a little high.

I've also created this relay for my TCC Brake Switch. Does anyone know where I would find the "Stop Lamp 12v" shown in the diagram below?
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