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Old 03-24-2004, 04:34 PM
NewElkyOwner NewElkyOwner is offline
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Default carb. problems?

I took my elky into a mechanic too turn down my idle because it was running way too high. like 25 to 30 with my foot off the gas, and he says I need a new carb and it will cost 280 bucks. now, I don't know anything about cars, but I wan't too, so do ya'll think this mechanic is for real and how can i check if he is lying or not besides a second opinoin cause im going to get one anyway.
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Old 03-25-2004, 02:55 PM
Steve84Ec Steve84Ec is offline
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My choke on my car sucks pretty bad, takes a little while to get the rpms down after i start. When you start it, after a little bit, you have to put the gas down quick to get the choke to come out, you ever do that?

ps. when i mean quick, just put it to the floor real fast and put it down, don't know if thats right with other carburated cars(my only one i have driven), but since my choke sucks, it usually takes a few tries at it, then the idle lowers a lot
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Old 03-25-2004, 04:03 PM
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Don't know what carbs you guys are talking about but all carbs have a choke to enrich the cold mixture and a fast idle cam to make the engine idle higher with the choke on. Both the choke duration and fast idle speed are adjustable. Take your Elkys to a better mechanic or get a factory manual and learn how to do it yourself.
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Old 03-25-2004, 04:53 PM
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If you are talking about a Quad, It sometimes takes some trial & error to get it right.
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Old 03-25-2004, 07:15 PM
Steve84Ec Steve84Ec is offline
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My choke has a problem with sticking, and i'm pretty sure my carb needs a rebuilt(its some little 2 barrel the previous owner put on, losing hp!)
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Old 03-25-2004, 09:20 PM
spoonplugger spoonplugger is offline
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These days, it is difficult to find a mechanic who knows how to set/adjust an electronic Quadrajet. Most of the "old heads" have retired or moved on to other things because fuel injection put them out of business. However, there is one good way to tell if a mechanic is capable of working on an e-carb. Ask him he has access to one of those special Rochester e-carb tool and gauge kit. Rochester manufactured and sold them for $300 - $600 each. They are necessary to set both the lean and rich authority, float level, TPS voltage adjustment, etc. I know a guy who can rebuild an e-carb with the best of them, even re-bush the throttle shaft, but he cannot adjust and set the aforementioned items because he does not have one of those tool kits. If you find an old timer who has one of those tool kits, you are on the right track.

I once asked a so-called professional carb re-builder if he had such a tool kit and he said "no, but I set it to factory specs". I can't imagine how he could do that without the gauges and tools. Be careful to avoid being ripped off. In the end, you may be forced to buy a carb from a local parts house. If I were you, I would not buy the carb you mentioned without a solid, money back for any reason, guarantee. Good luck.
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Old 03-27-2004, 06:47 PM
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Rebuilding a modern carb, esp. a feedback carb requires a fairly high skill level which is beyond the abilities of many people. Unless I had previous experience I would not attempt it.
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Old 04-18-2004, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoonplugger
Ask him he has access to one of those special Rochester e-carb tool and gauge kit. Rochester manufactured and sold them for $300 - $600 each. They are necessary to set both the lean and rich authority, float level, TPS voltage adjustment, etc.
Guess what: YOU, TOO can be a "big-shot" CCC carb rebuilder/adjuster... and the proper tools to become one will cost you no more than about $40! Both the adjustment drivers and a gage set are available from Thexton: see the 2nd picture here:
http://members.dandy.net/~k0xp/Oldsm...nicQjetPix.htm

The drivers set is Thexton 380, at $17.95, and the gage kit is Thexton 370, at $9.95, both available from ToolSource:
http://www.toolsource.com/ost/produc...B07FWV3CFMAX6F
http://www.toolsource.com/ost/produc...B07FWV3CFMAX6F

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Old 04-19-2004, 09:45 AM
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In response to this man's question. Is there an aftermarket carb by Holley or Edelbrock that is a direct replacement fot the Rodchester feedback carb? I would like to know, because I am having trouble with my four barrel on my 85' 305. Mine warms up okay, but hesitates badly when I step down on the gas. I'm thinking about replacing it.
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Old 04-19-2004, 11:13 AM
crash landing crash landing is offline
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get a road demon..I have heard nothing but posotive things about them..the jrs cost just about as much as a holley or edelbrock...When i get my elk straightened out im gonna make the switch..
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Old 04-19-2004, 02:40 PM
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mine was idling real high too, it is the choke thermostat... runs round $70... it is warm though now, and you could just take it off and run with out a choke for the summer
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Old 04-25-2004, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Don Strautz
......I am having trouble with my four barrel on my 85' 305. Mine warms up okay, but hesitates badly when I step down on the gas. I'm thinking about replacing it.
Don Strautz
There's LOTS of other things that can cause hesitation like that. One of the more common is the EGR valve. Try disconnecting and plugging the vacuum hose on the EGR valve and see if it goes away. You can even test this without driving the Elky: simply leave it in Park/Neutral, then bring the rpm up with the throttle. If it starts running rough and misfiring at around 1500 and smooths out somewhat above maybe 2000, the EGR is opening too far or the restrictor washer is missing. Or possibly a bad EGR gasket but that's unlikely.

Other causes include:
- dirty air cleaner element
- vacuum leaks (bad vacuum hoses)
- bad accelerator pump

If the hesitation occurs when you open the throttle pretty wide but is OK during normal stop & go driving, look at the secondary flapper operation. If the spring is set too loosely, the flapper will open too quickly, leaning the engine and causing bog/hesitation.

SteveH
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Old 04-25-2004, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motorbreth
mine was idling real high too, it is the choke thermostat... runs round $70... it is warm though now, and you could just take it off and run with out a choke for the summer
Dunno where you've been finding the chokes for $70 but even
http://www.discountautoparts.com has them for half that.
http://www.carbsunlimited.com has them for even less.

Better yet, just snatch one from a Yarde car.

But the choke thermostats rarely go bad; more likely, the problem's gummed-up linkage or even just misadjustment. When you rebuild a carb, you really don't need to disassemble the choke itself; simply unbolt it from the carb body and wipe it off using kerosene or 91% iso alky then put it back on while reassembling the carb. You almost NEVER need to remove the rivets holding the cover but if you do, make sure you scratch a mark into the cover and body so you can reset the cover to the exact same place where the factory had it.

SteveH
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Old 10-06-2010, 02:23 PM
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Old 10-06-2010, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewElkyOwner View Post
I took my elky into a mechanic too turn down my idle because it was running way too high. like 25 to 30 with my foot off the gas, and he says I need a new carb and it will cost 280 bucks. now, I don't know anything about cars, but I wan't too, so do ya'll think this mechanic is for real and how can i check if he is lying or not besides a second opinoin cause im going to get one anyway.
Find yourself another mechanic or get a manual for your Elky.First check for vacuum leaks if there are no leaks put a tach on her and remove the air cleaner top to make sure the choke opens as it warms up ,if it opens raise the air cleaner base and look on the passenger side of the carb just in front of the choke pod you will see linkage watch that and just tap the throttle a weighted piece of linkage should drop down a little and the idle should slow down if it does not drop the choke pulloff vacuum pot isn't working and it's at the back of the carb same side as the choke it releases the choke fast idle.
With Rochester carbs another problem is wear in the baseplate around the throttle shaft and to check this, with the engine off open the throttle and see if there is play by wiggling the throttle back and forth and up and down.If there is too much play it can cause a fast idle or rough idle and would necessitate a carb change or rebuild with the baseplate rebushed.
If all that checks out your timing may not be set correctly according to the manual and the emissions label on the vehicle.
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