What to do with a TH200-4R while it's out?

[number9]

I recently got a TH200-4R to replace the TH350. While I've got it out - and while I've got all winter to toy with it - what should I do?

I don't know much about trannys so I'm not sure where to start. Should I just go with a pan gasket & filter kit, seal kit and new bolts for the torque converter? It's a stock tranny (not a Grand National) going into a stock 350 motor. The pan looks pretty rough so I'll try and beat that back into shape. Should I replace the governor with a GN item?

And I'm not sure what to do with the lockup, either. I'll probably just start with a switch on the dash but I'd like to go for a vacuum-operated system eventually.

[woody31]

i would just make sure its clean,maybe a good shift kit , like trans go brand,,should not need anything else,,but what do i know ,, i run a wore out truck motor,,,

[number9]

I think my motor is stock from way back in '69! So I've got you beat there

I don't think I got a TV cable with the tranny. Will a cable from a TH350 work?

[woody31]

no it is application specific

[Keyser Sose]

check with TrannyMike, if you wanna do it correctly!

[number9]

I'm waiting for him to chime in

[woody31]

good luck on that,,,,

[Keyser Sose]

Originally Posted by woody31

good luck on that,,,,

really, he's already celebrating his win.

[TrannyMike]

If this trans is known to work well do this. First pull the pan to be sure there is no excessive metal or any band or clutch material. A trans can work well even if something is just beginning to deteriorate. If it's good I'd install new front and rear seals, and a filter kit. If you can, replace the linkage seal too. There is a special tool for that, but you don't need it with the trans out. You would have to disassemble the linkage to replace it without the tool I mentioned. But since you say you have time to tinker with it, just be careful and do it the old fashioned way.

Now if your motor is stock you can install it as is. If you like firm shifts you can install a shift kit. The simplest one for a novice that's still very good is the Fairbanks stage 1 kit. That's how I'd go at this if I was you. If you need more detailed instructions message me.

[TrannyMike]

I did forget an important detail. The cable will be different, so you'll need one for a 2004R. The carb linkage will need to be modified to correct the geometry and work with a 2004R. Message me about that if you need advice or need to know where to get the kit for that. Jegs sells them. There are other changes to convert it, but I'm not sure how much you already know about this. If you are completely clueless about the conversion then we'll have to have a longer conversation about this. Let me know.

[number9]

Originally Posted by TrannyMike

I did forget an important detail. The cable will be different, so you'll need one for a 2004R. The carb linkage will need to be modified to correct the geometry and work with a 2004R. Message me about that if you need advice or need to know where to get the kit for that. Jegs sells them. There are other changes to convert it, but I'm not sure how much you already know about this. If you are completely clueless about the conversion then we'll have to have a longer conversation about this. Let me know.

Mike I did read your previous post, but wanted to reply to this one first as I had a Jegs window open already. Is this what I'll need for a TV cable? http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...03101/10002/-1. I see they have B&M and TCI too for about the same price.

Also, how do I tell for sure that the converter I got is a lockup converter?

[TrannyMike]

I'm not a big fan of universal cables, but in this case it probably is your best bet. The 2004R's all had lock-up converters. If it's got round pads for converter bolts then it's a lock-up converter. If they are square or rectangle then it's wrong for sure.

[number9]

Originally Posted by TrannyMike

I'm not a big fan of universal cables, but in this case it probably is your best bet. The 2004R's all had lock-up converters. If it's got round pads for converter bolts then it's a lock-up converter. If they are square or rectangle then it's wrong for sure.

I forgot to check out the converter before I left home this morning, I'll take a look at it tonight to make sure.

What about something like this instead - a genuine GM TV cable from Bowtie? http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/cata...php?ITEMID=229

[number9]

As I've mentioned previously, I recently picked up a TH200-4R in order to swap in & replace the TH350 I've got. I picked it up from Craigslist from a local guy and it was gross.

Anyway, I got off my a** and went down to the local car-wash place in order to clean up the new transmission & torque converter. Discovered some things along the way, but as I've said previously I'm pretty clueless when it comes to auto trannys.

Here are some pictures of the tranny when I started. Eww!




One thing I can't figure out is there seems to be a hard, white plastic line that runs down the "spine" of the tranny. I tugged on it a little and it didn't move. What could it be?



Cast into the main part of the bellhousing is what looks to be "403" on one line and "X" just below it:



The internals under the cover of the bellhousing look pretty good:



Here is the tranny from the side. I was kind of shocked to see such a large dipstick tube! I'm actually not sure what this black cable is (pictured), but either way it's been cut. I presume that the two brass inlets/outlets (which have been cut, too) are for the tranny cooler.



Here's the serial number tag. I haven't deciphered it, yet:



Not sure what this serial number represents. It appears to be 8634005:



I presume this is the speedo cable, which has been cut. Not sure what the little nipple is farther up the trans:



On the other side of the tranny is a yoke (presumably for the shifter), a 4-pin connector with 3 pins inside it (presumably for the torque converter lock-up), and a plastic tab (I have NFI):



Here is the front of the torque converter. I hope this is the lockup kind! TrannyMike, what do you think?



The side of the torque converter. It looks like the PO has snapped off one of the studs, tried to cut it off, and then tried to cut the actual mounting ear off!



The back of the torque converter.

[Keyser Sose]

the cut off cable on the passengers side is the cable that goes to the carb, you'll need to replace that.

The little white tube on top is a breather, be glad you didn't pull it off/out.

You also lucked out, because that trans has the dual bolt pattern bellhousing. It will fit Chev and Buick/Olds/Pontiac engines.

on drivers side, you have those things figured out, except I don't know what the nipple is either.

what is that Mike?

the round mounts tell you that the converter is a lock-up model.

The dipstick tube necks down as it goes into the trans.