77 light switch wiring

[Scottm]

I ve searched but haven't found what I need in the way of pictures.
I'm installing a rebel wire harness in my 77. I don't have the head lights hooked up yet, waiting on some sockets. I got the rear lights fixed up but when i follow the directions for switch wiring, the tail lights come on even without the switch on.
Turn signals work fine.
heres my switch:

white is dome, red is batt, blue is dimmer, green is dash power, brown is tail and orange is Lf PARK(i think)

here are the instructions


what is the splice? I hooke it up to tail and LF and that made the lights come on and stay on
.
The instructions make the slice go to an empty socket, but theres nothing in any of the other holes.

Any ideas?

Also i hooked up the back up light and back up power to the neutral safety switch. Can they be reversed or sdo they have a specific side they go on/ I couldn't get reverse lights on.

Thanks

[JJLT1]

white is dome, red is batt, blue is dimmer, green is dash power, brown is tail and orange is Lf PARK

orange is hot,, it powers the tail lights and dash lights..
you dont need the splice,, if you have the orange and its hot.. maybe
edit
brown goes to tail lights/ park lights
look at the 77.. http://www.elcaminocentral.com/showthread.php?t=27190

[HKDUP87]

I can't paste anything but go to google type what I put below then the first one that comes up should be the Hot Rod Forum asking the same question they have links to Painless wiring .

www.Painlesswiring.com


HOW TO WIRE A 1977 GM LIGHT SWITCH

[gilby]

..that orange wire comes off a fuse that marked "Tail"....

[Scottm]

Hmmm. Brakes, turns, hazzards, back ups all work fine but tails won't light. May be a fuse. I'll contact rebel.

[JJLT1]

is the orange hot?? do the dash lights work??

[Scottm]

I don't have the dash in yet. I used my voltmeter and the orange was not hot, nor was the new tail light wire.

[JJLT1]

check the tail lp fuse and the ctsy-clk fuse..

does the orange wire come from the fuse box??
those instructions dont look normal?? maybe they changed it up some??

[gilby]

[Scottm]

Originally Posted by JJLT1

those instructions dont look normal?? maybe they changed it up some??

Bob at Rebel wrote me this morning and I got a little cleared up and confused at the same time. The yellow fused wire from the kit splices to the red and orange wires. It was my misunderstanding on how the switch works. I thought power entered the switch through the red then through some sort of circutry made it way back to the orange which I thought ran to the tails. So when I pulled the knob it would activate the tails like an on off switch. Dad said it was important to learn something new every day.

Bob then said to connect the tail light wire to my brown wire and the park wire to the wire in the back.
There is no wire in the back.
So looking at his headlight switches for sale. http://rebelwire.com/pic/productlist-pic107.jpg it has 8 blade connectors. My switch only has 7.
I've emailed him again to see if I need a new updated switch with an 8th plug for the LF park wire.

I would feel more comfortable just wiring up a new switch because my orange wire is old stiff and brittle. Plus when I strip coating off of it, the wire is brownish instead of copper. Sounds like fire starter material in the makings, especially since the yellow power wire is 12ga and the orange wire is at least 18ga.

Maybe I haven't lost my mind after all.

You posted just before I did Gilby. LOL

[gilby]

..good find..LF runs on the same circuit as the RF.. should be the same color wire going to both Park Lamps. remember, you have two filaments in one bulb.





..This is the left front side wiring..


( you said there is only one brown wire and that is correct. it splices at the radiator core support and goes to the left side)
(wire #2 is; Tan #3 is;light green is for the headlights, low/high lamps)


here are the position to cross check the wires

[gilby]

here a wiring diagram for ya, notice the black dot where as the brown wires meet, that a splice. (1.)

[Scottm]

All I see is a white box with a red X.
I plan on doing a review for Rebel in the vendor section and maybe a small write up on my rewire so others will know what to expect. In brief though, the kit does not duplicate the orginal factory harness. I got lost and confused trying to duplicate the factory harness and Bob at Rebel pointed that out. Every thing now has it's own wire so to speak so there's really no chasing circuts. That's why the Haynes and other diagrams got me confused.
One brief example is the heater power wire (Brown) was connected with a pink and black wire, but only came out the other side of the plug brown. I later learned the pink wire was power for the dash. Crap like that confused the heck out of me. With the Rebel Kit, Heat has it own power wire and the dash has it's own power coming from the fuse box.

[Scottm]

I learned something new today!
Got this from Bob at rebel
"If your switch only has 7 than the park lights go to the terminal next to dash lights.
3 terminals in row, hl power, dash , park.
On late-style GM headlight switches,The park light terminal has been omitted. and park light moved to front row of switch."
The one i am pointing at with the voltmeter lead.
On the switch drawing, it shows that #3 is unused like it is in my 77.
Once I ran the wire to that terminal and properly ran power to the orange and red wires. Every things started working perfect.

[JJLT1]

WTG Scott..