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Old 02-21-2005, 11:03 PM
Iceberg76 Iceberg76 is offline
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Default Good cam choice for GM Goodwrench 260hp crate engine

I think I'm going to buy a GM Goodwrench 260 hp crate motor instead of the 290 hp GM Performance crate motor for my '76 El Camino SS (and save almost $400). I plan on buying and installing a new streetable cam prior to installation, to go along with my existing Weiand Action+ manifold, Edelbrock Performer 600 cfm carb and Hedman Elite hedders. I've been told that a good cam will really wake up this motor. What type of cam should I install in my daily driver 2 ton Elky? Is the warranty void if I install a new cam in the crate motor?
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Old 02-22-2005, 02:13 AM
old_coot old_coot is offline
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My guess is that it would void the warranty, and quite probably is has a pretty good cam for making torque down low anyway, I'd probably buy it , drop it in, and smile a lot.................Dan
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Old 02-22-2005, 03:02 PM
12345 12345 is offline
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I'm ASSuming that this is the engine you're looking at and from the looks of it it's a fairly strong engine tourquewise as it comes stock so i would just leave the cam alone and keep your warranty...of course thats just my .02


GM Goodwrench 350ci / 260hp Engine and Engine Packages

This universal 350ci engine uses a brand new block and can be used as a replacement for most GM vehicles from 1970-85. It produces 260hp and 350 ft/lbs of torque with a 4bbl carb and headers. It can be used as a replacement or as a retrofit into almost any vehicle. This brand new crate engine comes with a GM warranty and is covered for 3 years or 50,000 miles in applicable GM vehicles only.
Specifications:

4 bolt main with 2 piece rear main seal
Cast iron crankshaft
LT1/LT4 powdered metal connecting rods
Cast pistons (dished)
Hydraulic flat tappet cam, (.383''/.401'') and a 112 lobe separation
Cast iron cylinder heads with 76cc chambers
8.5:1 compression ratio
Left and right hand dipstick
4 quart oil pan
Timing tabs for a 6-3/4'' or an 8'' balancer
Recommended spark plug- Accel 111-574 or any spark plug with 14mm, .460'' reach, 5/8'' hex, tapered seat, projected tip

GM Goodwrench 260 HP Crate Engine
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Old 02-22-2005, 03:28 PM
1978owner 1978owner is offline
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im going to take it the car came with a 350 from the factory? if not then you do not get the 3 year warranty you get a 1 year. Thats what the dealer told me when i was looking at one for my elky, before i decided to go with a 383.
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Old 02-22-2005, 05:40 PM
Iceberg76 Iceberg76 is offline
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My '76 SS came from the factory w/ a 350 4bbl (w/ 165 rompin' stompin' hp & 260 lbf /ft of torque). Yup, it was quite the powerhouse pushing 2 tons w/ 2:73 gears. Even after removing all the smog junk and installing headers, intake and a 600 cfm 4 bbl carb it was still pretty weak. I'm sure I'll notice the 260 - 290 hourses I'll be getting from my new crate motor. Of course, I'll have to take care of the high rear end ratio soon.
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Old 02-22-2005, 07:11 PM
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Mama Mayhem Mama Mayhem is offline
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So you decided to go with the crate motor instead of doing your own rebuild? For your rear I can recommend Paden Drivetrain on Killingsworth just west of I-205, that's who did mine, they know their stuff. There's a drive train shop right along I-5 there in Vanc. that you can see from the freeway, I can't remember the exit #, but I don't know anything about them.
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:09 PM
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What did you have done to your rear end? Could you PM me with what it cost?
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Old 02-22-2005, 09:35 PM
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Comp Xtreme 274 will really wake it up.

It only voids the warranty if you tell them :P

We pull customers cams out before shipping engines out for warranty, do they know it ? Sure. Can they prove it? Nope.

The 3/50K warranty applies to any vehicle that "could" have been originally equipped with a 350 from the factory. They don't require a VIN when you buy it so they have no idea if it is original or not.
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Old 02-22-2005, 11:59 PM
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Looks to me that you wouldn't be happy with the 260hp engine..not enough power? Why don't you buy the 290hp engine and then you will get the power you want and no hassles with the warranty. It's unlikely that any cam swap will get you an additional 30hp.
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Old 03-25-2005, 01:57 PM
Duts87ss Duts87ss is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrapii
Looks to me that you wouldn't be happy with the 260hp engine..not enough power? Why don't you buy the 290hp engine and then you will get the power you want and no hassles with the warranty. It's unlikely that any cam swap will get you an additional 30hp.
Why is it unlikely? That's how GM got from 260hp to 290hp, a simple cam swap.

As far as whether to swap the cam because of warranty, how much would a self built engine cost, and how much warranty would it have? I say a cam swap would be a great way to have a budget 300 horse motor. I'd probably go with a Comp XE262 though.
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Old 03-25-2005, 07:47 PM
80elcamino 80elcamino is offline
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Mrapii, makes a good point: save up to buy the HP you want in the begining. Remember: those pwr #'s are at the crank, 290 HP is only worth about 240 at the wheels. If you're still wanting to change the cam, call crane or comp (cranes' usually cheaper) and tell them what you've got and what you want. They do all the research that we can't so I'd trust them more than anyone.

Also, one note: go ROLLER EVERYTHING on the top end (lifters, rockers, cam) you'll be glad in the long haul, especially if you plan on haulin' a$$.
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Old 02-04-2006, 11:28 PM
UnclesCamino UnclesCamino is offline
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I know this is an old thread, but I am thinking about getting one of the 260 hp GM engines. After thinking about changing the cam I was wondering about just going to 1.6 rocker arm. It shouldn't void the warranty if I put the old ones back on before I have to take it back. Anyway would they make much difference on this engine?

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Old 02-05-2006, 06:01 AM
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While that engine has some impressive attributes (new block, 4 bolt mains, etc) It's the low compression ratio that worries me the most.

I think C/R makes at least as much diference as the cam in the HP ratings. While the 8.5:1 cited above can probably run regular gas w/no problems, you will be pretty much stuck with this "limit" regardless of the bumpstick you install. With today's pump grade high test, 9:1 or 9.5:1 seems to be a common C/R target for street engines with 10:1 not unheard of. A 1 point increase in C/R can probably add an instant 30-50 HP, and that doesn't cost the manufacturer a dime extra at engine build-up.

I personally like Mrapii's suggestion about buying what you want to start with and thereby getting the warranty plus the performance you want (but there I go again, spending someone elses money).

Were it me, I'd either delay my purchase until I could afford (or find) the ideal engine for my targeted performance goals, or build exactly what I want myself.

Another 2 cents. Best wishes with your decision.

Regarding the 1.7:1 rocker arm ratio upgrade question, besides the warranty issue, it "Probably" wouldn't hurt and is fairly easy to undo, but there are lots of other factors to consider here.

For example: Would doing so excede the point at which those stock valve springs will coil bind, will the valves float at the RPM ceiling you're planning on, Will the lift new rate of the valve tag the piston top anywhere, is airflow through the head the major restriction to higher performance, is there an emissions impact since the swap will affect valve overlap, cost effectiveness of the swap (in other words, why put $200 into a rocker swap if it yields no improvement in highway MPG and only a 5% improvement in HP at WOT?), will the increased power/torque requirement for the rockers excede my stock timing chain's limit?

Personally, if I had them and they didn't bind the valve train anywhere I'd probably try them just to see if it makes a difference. Otherwise I'd leave well enough alone and put my money in a better cam that'll work with my existing valve train.

Am I up to 4 cents yet?
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