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Discussion Starter #23
Rear conversion complete, just need a buddy to come help me attach the last e-brake cable (tried for 30 minutes by myself, don't have enough hands) So at this point, i plan to pull all the old lines and start tearing the front apart.

For some reason this site only lets me upload images from my phone, and then only resized images. Will attach the images shortly
 

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Discussion Starter #26
So this is where I'm at, doubt I'll have much time tomorrow (technically today) to get much else done, but the rear disc brake conversion is 100% done.

Have the front mostly torn apart, thinking I'll have to cut one of the lower ball joints to get spindle off. Will try and take more pictures and update.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
What rear disc setup did you use? Did it change your track width at all??
I went with a complete kit from The Right Stuff Brakes. Very impressed with the quality of parts and the fact that they literally include EVERYTHING for the job.

As far as track width, I have noticed when reinstalling the stock wheels the lug nuts wont thread on very far at all. Not to an unsafe length, just considerably less than before with the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Another update, got ball joints out and cleaned up control arms with wire wheel. Primed/painted black to clean it up. Also included the picture of the balljoint I ended up having to cut off with the angle grinder. I also removed the sway bar and plan to clean it up and replace all the bushings.

Next step is to start pulling tie rods, pitman arm, ETC and freshen up with new stock replacements. I decided to leave the shocks and coils in. I have replacements if they ever fail.

Also discovered where my power steering leak was coming from, the seal on the bottom of the steering box is leaking. Does anyone have another thread about replacing one of those seals?

Will update next chance I get to escape to my garage again.
 

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I think the seal you are referring to is the Pitman arm seal. Mine also leaked but rather than replace the seal, I opted for the installation of a different steering gear box out of a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee. This solved the leak and also gave me a much better steering ratio.


The used box out of a junk yard Grand Cherokee cost me fifty bucks, works perfectly, fits easily and provides a much meatier road feel - less steering loosness going down the road.


New hoses and two hydraulic adapters were the hardest but not hard problems here.



Rick
 

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Good looking 69 Matt. That's one of favorite years.

One piece of advice. Don't use polyurethane bushings in your suspension build. I did in my 83 and, the squeaking drives me nuts. I don't know if polygraphite bushings would have the same issue but, I'm going to re-do mine with stock rubber bushings.
Just a question - when you installed the poly bushings did you coat them with silicone lube? I've done that a few times over the years and never had a squeak out of anything, including sway bar bushings which on some of my past pick-up trucks were notorious. If not, a quick spray of PB Blaster's silicone spray lube might help.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I think the seal you are referring to is the Pitman arm seal. Mine also leaked but rather than replace the seal, I opted for the installation of a different steering gear box out of a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee. This solved the leak and also gave me a much better steering ratio.

The used box out of a junk yard Grand Cherokee cost me fifty bucks, works perfectly, fits easily and provides a much meatier road feel - less steering loosness going down the road.


New hoses and two hydraulic adapters were the hardest but not hard problems here.



Rick
I thought about doing that, is there a specific range of model years the steering box will work? I'll have to keep an eye out for one.
 

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1993-98. Grand Cherokee only, not Laredo, not Sport. There's not enough information about the steering ratio and torsion bar in the Jeep Laredo and Sport steering boxes that anybody wants to take a chance on but it is certain they would fit. Just no information on the road feel in those boxes.


Your stock steering shaft will fit but you will need a Dorman 31011 rag joint (or similar) to make it all work together. The Pitman arm on the JGC box will need to be pressed off and your Pitman arm pressed on. After that, adapters for the hoses or all new hoses completes the job but i used all new bolts through the frame rail to mount the new steering box.


I had several choices of JGC vehicle in the yards around here and wound up picking one that had not been hit in the front.



Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Rick,

Thank you for that, actually went to the yard today and found 4 that would work, going to go back next chance I get, 50 bucks is a deal to me. Your information is invaluable as always
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Update time: work is going in small spurts when I have time, however today I did manage to get all 4 ball joints in. The press tool you can rent from your local auto store made the job easy.

Also managed to get the sway bar cleaned up with a wire wheel and painted. I used some farm equipment with corrosion resistance from Krylon, so it should work pretty well I think.

That box is the rest of the new parts to put on still. Grabbing a steering box from a 94 grand cherokee next chance i get to replace mine. Will update
 

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I highly, highly recommend doing the JGC steering box upgrade while you are at this stage with the front suspension. It'll never be easier than right now to install a different steering box.

Rick

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I highly, highly recommend doing the JGC steering box upgrade while you are at this stage with the front suspension. It'll never be easier than right now to install a different steering box.

Rick

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
Yessir, you sold me on the conversion. In the process of picking the appropriate candidate for the transplant.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
So have made a little progress, but it is not looking likely to have her done by April, unless it is late April. However, figured I would post some pictures of where I am at.

In the process of separating all the steering components, replacing with all new OEM style. I took the steering box off with the tie rods and idler arm all attached still, makes it MUCH easier to separate everything while you are not upside down on your back. Swapping the box with a JGC box once I get it. Thanks again for the suggestion and information.

Haven't decided if I want to do the center steering shaft in black or red to match the sway bar. What do you guys think?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Got the center shaft and two steering arms painted and drying. One tierod down, one to go. Now just need to get the new JGC steering box and will be putting it all back on. Starting to move along now.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Long time, but she is almost road worthy. Got the booster and master cylinder in, all the lines ran and partially bleeded. New Dorman ragjoint is on, and all that is left is to throw the steering components all back on and she is riding. Will update when she is done.

Also, apparently 2 of the photos are too large to show the chrome booster and master cylinder. Will try to resize
 

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