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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Getting ready to work on the 1970 sweep dash.

Help me name the 12 idiot lights.

1 ?
2 Left Turn Indicator green
3 Brake warning red (Emergency brake set & out of balance on distribution block)
4 ?
PRNDLL gear selector
5 ?
6 ?
7 ?
8 ?
9 ?
10 Generator red (glows on key on, bright on start)
11 Right Turn Indicator green
12 ?

Somewhere there might be a head lights on and high/low beam indicator?
Click image below for larger image.
 

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From the 1970 owners manual. Blank means there is no indicator light for this position.

1. Does not show as a space in the manual. Manual shows the left turn signal as the first indicator light on the left. Looks like someone may have put the turn signals in the wrong space
2. Brake
3. Blank
4. Blank
PRNDL
5. Blank
6. Blank
7. Blank
8. Bright (Hi Beam)
9. Hot
10. Oil
11. Gen
12. Right Turn. Again it looks like the indicator lights were put in the wrong place.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ed asks "You wouldn't have a 71/72 dash by chance? "

I did not expect that. However, the numbers are white, while the 1970 are supposed to be green. However I looked at a couple other 1970 sweep dash 1970 online and they match mine.
 

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I have my sweep style seeedometer out at the moment. I will look at it and let you know. Three of the spots are covers for mounting screws (1, and 12 for sure and I think 5 is the other one).
 

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Sweep style idiot lights

Just finished looking at the idiot light spots on my sweep style speedometer. This is what is on mine.

1) is a cover over a mounting screw for the light panel
2) is the left turn indicator
3) is the parking break light
4) is blank on the front but the bulb mounted it that spot lights the
gear shift position indicator.
5) is blank
6) is another cover over a mounting screw.
7) is the high beam indicator.
8 ) is the high temperature light
9) is the low oil pressure light
10) is the Generator light
11) is the right turn indicatro
12) is another cover over a mounting screw.

To get the mounting screw covers out take a small thin screwdriver or similar and pop it out.

I hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you Merv. That does help me and likely others in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I'll ask.
Can I lift the covers off slots 1,6 & 12 while on the dash?
Then unscrew and get to those lightbulbs without having to remove the dash?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Than you Rick and Ed.

What did Rick mean cardboard squares?

Caution, working with electricity!
I turned the key off and pulled it out of the ignition and turned the light switch to off.

I pressed on the passenger side of the tabs in slots 1,6 & 12 (see first post).
Be careful to save the plastic tabs.
This exposes the screws. Remove the screws, save them too.
To remove the idiot light lens face, carefully lift up and toward the seat.
Oh... Cardboard boxes??? There they are.
One of mine is a white plastic box.
Note that several of my cardboard boxes have burnt crispy places.
Carefully move your idiot light lens face plate to the work bench, inspect it.
Carefully transfer the cardboard boxes to the face plate.
Inspect the idiot light fixture.
The 194 bulbs pull straight out. Do not twist them.

When you have replaced any light bulbs you previously identified as questionable, you turn the key on and test.
See top 4 posts to find out which lamp does what function.
Since this car has after market coolant temp and volt meters, those light sensors no longer power the idiot lights.
Your setup may be different.
Turn the key off again and remove from the ignition, before making any more changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I haven't been happy with the replacement automotive bulbs I have been purchasing the last 5 years.
Several sets of the new Sylvania brake/turn signal bulbs for my Cheyenne failed to work when I replaced them.

The new 194 bulbs are actually less bright than the old 194 bulbs that are already in the idiot light sockets.

So, off I went to local auto parts stores, only to find LED 194 at $10 each in pairs or $12 each.

I am seeking your thoughts on:
* Switching to 194 LED.

* It almost looks like if I move the clock knob, I might be able to get the plastic speedometer lens off to clean it. That is a major goal of this effort. The lens is curved and does not seem to be reproduced.

* Should I spray CRC electric cleaner into the 194 sockets?

* What else should I do while I am here. (Sorry can't afford new gages)
It almost looks like if I move the clock knob, I might be able to get the plastic speedometer lens off to clean it. That is a major goal of this effort. The lens is curved and does not seem to be reproduced.
 

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The lens is probably plastic welded to the speedometer housing. You will need to remove the dash and then the assembly. Either heat up the plastic weld joints or cut with a sharp x-acto knife to remove the lens. This is what I had to do with my gauge dash.
There is also a thin gasket material between the lens and housing to keep the dirt out. Over the years this gasket degrades allowing dust inside.
 

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I ordered LED replacement for the 194 bulbs from Super Bright LEDs. I found a lot of LED replacements at sites like Amazon cheaper than Super Bright LEDs but they stated that they were not dimable. The ones listed on SBL site stated that they would dim like the 194 bulbes. They were a bit more expensive but it they do dim it will be worth it. I just received them today and I am about a week away from reinstalling the dash. I will post here how they work out.
 

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The numbers on my sweep speedometer like that they may have a slight green tint however there is a green lens between the bulbs and the face of the speedometer which will make the numbers appear green. I have gone one step further and ordered green LED replacements.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I ordered four colors of www.SuperBrightLEDs.com LED 194 replacements.

These are a little shorter, yet are supposed to put out twice the light of old style 194 bulbs.
These come in either 90 or 120 degree light focus. I picked out the 120 degree for wider coverage and hope it will be more even with the cardboard light boxes.

Green for behind the turn indicators.
Red for behind the Brake and Gen indicators.
White or blue for behind dash. I will need to experiment.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I cleaned the idiot light fascia. I applied multiple detailing products for plastic/rubber and a Back to Black cream.

The fascia is clean. However, it now really shows up where 48 years of cleaning has caused shiny spots on the flat black of the plastic/vinyl. It is likely that tools, keys and other objects have set on that top surface and worn smooth spots in the texture.

I picked up some black vinyl paint to see if I can get the texture consistent on the top surface of the fascia.

Since the cleaners likely have silicon oxide and other chemicals, I will need to clean it thoroughly, scuff it up, and clean again and then put on some light coats of semi gloss black vinyl paint.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The red and green LED look well and brighter in the warning and turn signal lights.

However, I don't think the white LED in the 4th slot, that lights the gear selection indicator panel, dimmed well.
I may put a standard old style 194 bulb back into that one.
I may also figure out how to block the light, since the gear selector indicator is now on the floor shift console.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Remove the 4 screws that hold the top of the gauge bezel to the dash pad.
Open the glove box door. Look in glove box up under dash pad and remove 2 screws (mine were missing).
Make sure you have room to open the doors or windows to remove the dash pad.
Lift the pad up and forward.
There are 5 or 6 clips where the dash slides in near the window.
Listen to see if they fall.
Only 2 of the clips were installed on my pad.

Notes: I did not lower the steering wheel.
Dash pad cleared, yet was tight.
I have a tach and vacuum/boost gauge mounted to the drivers side A pillar.
I needed to loosen them, and will need to remove before installing the new dash.

In the image taken looking down through the front windshield, you can see the 5 instrument panel lamp sockets. I hear they are brittle, yet hope not to find out by braking them. OPGI has replacement sockets.
The original speakers and related brackets are mission, so I will not be adding speakers under the dash. I will use the kick panel alterates that I have.
I also notice that most of the ventilation/AC ducting is missing.
 

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oops! here's what I named mine

1. Bob
2. Larry
3. Eugene
4. Stan
5. Ralph
6. Gary
7. Mary
8. Melissa
9. Terry
10. Sue
11. Vanessa
12. Emily


but that's just me.

:sarcasm:
 
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