Gauges and Audio System Updates
I did a little work today. I have the JL amps mounted and then ran additional wire sets so each speaker has its own amp channel. I still have the Dynaudio speakers installed. I will swap these ou to the critical mass next week. Here is the configuration:
JL XD 600/6 - 6 ch amp powers 6 speakers at 4 ohm each for 75w RMS each. The CMass speakers will be 2 ohms for 100w RMS each.
Ch 1 - Left Front 6.5" woofer - LP 200Hz - Kick Panel
Ch 2 - Right Front 6.5" woofer - LP 200Hz - Kick Panel
Ch 3 - Left Front 3.5" mid/high - HP 315Hz - Dash
Ch 4 - Right Front 3.5" mid/high - HP 315Hz - Dash
Ch 5 - Left Front 1" tweeter - HP 500Hz w/passive crossover at 3000Hz - Kick Panel
Ch 6 - Right Front 1" tweeter - HP 500Hz w/passive crossover at 3000Hz - Kick Panel
JL XD 600/1 - mono amp powers one 12" Alpine Reference DVC running at 2 ohm for 600w RMS
I also installed the replacement set of Dakota Digital VHX gauges. It turns out that the control box did not fix the sporadic gauge movement on the speedo and oil gauge. It did not fix the clock reset or random blinking of hte lights either. So, I pulled the dash pad and replaced the gauges and ran all new wiring. I did this without changing the sensors, which will be my last step if necessary. After this change it seems to be working. I need to go for a few more test drives, but this seems promising.
Lastly, I installed a new dash pad from Resto Parts. This is a great color match and well built. The clips fit fine and it pushed right in. The only prep work I had to do was trim the extra vinyl material inside the long vent holes.
Here are some photo details:
Audio Install-1 JL Amps and Stinger Pro Digital Capacitor are mounted to an LED lighted amp rack that sits behind the driver seat and above the subwoofer.
Audio Install-2 Here you can see the sub box is made of MDF. It is a custom built ported enclosure that sits above the floor and tucks into the smugglers box. All the wiring is routed neatly under the amp rack for a clean look.
Audio Install-3 Here is the rewiring running along the driver side channel. This will be under the carpet. Cloth tape helps keep the wires from moving.
Audio Install-5 One final look at the back wall before the panels get placed.
Audio Install-6 Spare tire and tools are fitted behind the passenger seat and the trim panel was custom made of MDF with threaded screws. This panel goes on first. You can also see the fiberglass contoured subwoofer panel has been placed. All of these panels are painted with OEM Chevy Medium Blue paint color. This is just pressed in and held in place with friction. The bottom cut-outs give me a little room to store items under the subwoofer. Blue LEDs run across the underside of the metal shelf to add accent lighting.
Audio Install-7 Now the amp cover is in place. It is also made of MDF. This goes on second and sits over the spare tire panel with a ½” overlay. It gives a nice fitted appearance. The cutout is fitted with black grille cloth so the accent lighting shines through and you can get a glimpse of the amp rack and electronics.
Dakota Digital VHX-4 Now I am moving on to the Dakota Digital install. I used to wedge the control unit and shifter unit in the small cubby hole above the brake assembly. It was always a PITA to get this in and out. So, after reading some ideas from Rick, I decided to make a simple mounting plate. I had a scrap piece of acrylic that I used for testing black undercoatings. It was a perfect fit to wedge up in this space. I used simple Velcro to mount the control unit on top and Velcro holds the shifter unit underneath. This fits very well and does not move around at all. I was now able to tuck the wires into that cubby hole and it is now pretty easy to take this in/out when I need to work on it.
Dakota Digital VHX-5 Plate has been mounted and you can see the simple Velcro at work.
Dakota Digital VHX-6 Finished look at the interior with gauge set before I reinstall the bench seat. In this photo you can also see the new dash pad in Dark Blue. I was afraid it was too dark, but it is perfect. It seems that the car has a mix of medium blue and dark blue pieces.
Dash Pad Replacement Here is a look through the glass on the fit of the dash pad. It went in very easily and all the screw holes lined up pretty well. I could not be happier with this Resto Part product.
That is it for now. I need to do some test drives and see if I can dial in the EFI unit a little better. It still runs rough at idle, tends to idle low after warmup and the exhaust smell is horrible. I can barely breathe in the garage. I think it may be running too rich. Also, I notice right above the EFI unit it sounds very noisy like there is a vaccum leak. Any thoughts on what may be causing these two problems?