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Discussion Starter · #341 ·
Since I had the door panels off to mount the actuators, this was a good time to install the Noico sound deadening material. I added this to the outer door panel and the inside panel. The door sounds nice and dead.


i-key Premier Install-16 Noico sheets. I have 3 boxes with 9 sheets in each box for the whole car.
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i-key Premier Install-15 Here is the bare door with actuator installed. You can see the door lock rod with a metal piece. This is how the actuator works by pushing the rod up and down. Works pretty great.
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i-key Premier Install-17 Here is a look at the door with the material installed on both panels.
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i-key Premier Install-18 ANother look at th epassenger side door. My arms are all scrapedup from this project. Like usual. Reaching into the doors leads to lots of scrapes and cuts. Heavy gloves are helpful.
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Discussion Starter · #343 ·
Awesome. I am looking forward to getting all the pieces in place. Hopefully I can figure out some of the wiring issues this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #344 ·
I worked on the iKey over the weekend and really struggling to get this dialed in. It seems like the start button is not illuminating anymore and whenever I plug the main harness into the main box everythign gets power at the fuse box even when the key is off. I called Digi Dawg and they told me the box seems like it is stuck in run position. They gave me a trick to reset it, so I haope to try this again this weekend. It would be nice to get this done and back togeher.
 

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Discussion Starter · #345 ·
That trick totally worked. The ignition was stuck in run. I did a reset and then resumed the install. I got the car running. The proximity sensor is working well. I cannot get the remote start to work. I will call Degi Dawg on Monday and hope to work out a couple minor issue.

I did proceed with all the soft wiring just to make sure eveything is working the way I wanted. Tomorrow, I hope to add in the siren and get everything wired up and back together before UFC269!

Here are some photos to share:




i-key Premier Install-19 What a mess. Still the best way for me to do it. Once I locate all the proper wires and everything is connected, I will work my magic with clean wire install and soldered connections where I can.
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i-key Premier Install-20 I added the hood switch. This was a convenient location and close to where the siren will be located. The distance is perfect to the hood and the trigger works perfectly.
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i-key Premier Install-21 Switch in place.
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i-key Premier Install-22 I have two key fobs. These are high qulity OEM style fobs. The also contain the door key. The blank comes out and then a key gets gluedinto place.
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i-key Premier Install-23 I used one original key and one cut key.
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i-key Premier Install-24 Key being inserted
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i-key Premier Install-25 Key in position.
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i-key Premier Install-26 For right now, I decided to mount the start button in the lighter hole. Later I will move this to the center console when I upgrade the interior. The blue LED matches the other blue colors in the car. This makes me happy. And now, instead of having a cigarette Lighter, I have an engine Lighter. I'm also callign this the Ignitor Lighter. Great spot for temporary use without have to cut any new holes in the dash.
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i-key Premier Install-27 A close-up of how this looks.
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Here is a video demo of the iKey Premier operation.
 
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Discussion Starter · #347 ·
I worked out most of the problems yesterday and today. The remaining issue is that the remote start does not work. I spent abotu 2 hours on the phone with Digital Guard Dawg and we ried many things. The problem I have was a new one for the shop. So, in the end I am shipping the main box back and they are going to send me a new one. I sure hope it was the box and not some bad wiring that I did.

Hopefully I will get a new box by the end of the week. Very inpressed with CS so far from this California company.
 
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Discussion Starter · #348 ·
I got a call from Digi Dawg today and had one more option to try. Bruce asked me if I have LED brake lights. Of course I do, I respoinded. He said that was the problem. So, I was out at the gym and when done headed back to the house to pull the box off the porch awaiting pickup. I spent ten minutes putting the control box back in the car and removed the brown brake switch wire. I tried remote start and viola! Magic. The manual included this instruction, but it was buried at the end of the manual in the section called Special Instructions. I did not read this section becuase it was about door poppers and other options that I did not have.

So, the trick is that a diode must be placed inline. I spent the next two hours shopping around town to find one and no luck! Arrgh. So, I have some on order from Amazon. Hopefully, I will get the delivery by Friday and if the weather is still nice I will head out on a drive and make another video. I was scared that they would send me a new control box and it would do the same thing. It mos def would have ended this way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #349 ·
The diodes arrived and I soldered them inline. Everything is working great now.

Here are a couple videos. Part I and Part II.


 

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Discussion Starter · #351 ·
Thanks Rick. Haha. How has your project car been coming along? I have not visited your build page in a while.
 

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Hello Scott,

I'm down for a warranty claim radiator repair on a less than three year old Cold Case radiator.

I've also got a Dakota Digital GPS speedometer and clock kit waiting to get installed this week or soon.

Rick

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Discussion Starter · #354 ·
Thanks ElkyBill!
 

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Discussion Starter · #355 ·
Rick,

What happened to your cold case? I have one too and I noticed some spray marks in teh engine bay and some loss of coolent as well as a small puddle on the side with the radiator cap. I recently added a new radiator cap and I think that may be the problem, I hope. I put the old cap back on and I have not had problems with that for 2 years, so this should help me troubleshoot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #356 ·
I have been out on several test drives since getting the iKey Premier installed and corrected. Everything is working great and so far it has been very reliable with the remote start and perimeter sensing.

I also got a Christmas gift arriving from Santa today. This is the Ididit Steering column. This was a special order item since it has ignition delete. The column is black and smooth bore. No cut outs for the ignition switch or the column shifter. The really good news is that the cost is about $780 instead of $1200. This really offsets the rationale to add the iKey premier or some other keyless ignition system. The iKey with all the features I added was about $800 and it comes with a full feature alarm, which I did not have previously.

The other thing I did when ordering this column is that I added on the Installation kit designed for the Lee steering gear box. The OEM gearbox had an input shaft of 13/16" with 36 splines. The newer style is 3/4" with 30 splines. So, I had to use a special rag joint to convert the 30t gear box shaft to the 36t Double D shaft. Since, I am building this as a custom car, I decided to buy the steering column and Double D shaft installation kit that mates right up to the 30 spline input shaft on the Lee box with a standard rag joint. This is a small detail, but to me it means making future repairs stright forward.

I also called Classic Auto Air for an update of hte AC kit and they said I was number one on the list and the AC unit shoudl be mailed out this week. So, I will have several BIG projects to tackle while ice is on the streets.


Here are some photos of the next project.


Ididit Steering Column-1 Great packaging. As I unboxed I was pleasded. Very nice black powdercoted finish. The column is completely flat and this is what i was hoping for. Ididit does not list any photos of this "Ignition Delete" model on their website, at least for the columns designed to fit this car. No ignition key switch, no column shifter. Perfect.
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Ididit Steering Column-2 I loosley placed on the levers. It is so nice to work with new and clean parts. Everything looked great here too and the horn cam and turn signal cam are in place and the wires are run through.
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Ididit Steering Column-3 A pic of the right side where the key ignition and coulumn shift would be located. Not anymore.
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Ididit Steering Column-4 Here is a pic of the left side where the turn signal lever is in the standard location and the tilt lever is behind it.
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Ididit Steering Column-5 I wanted this setup to be modern, just like the steering wheel and paddle shifters. So, I will replace the standard tilt lever with one that has a button for the headlight high beams. Right now, the floor button is located behind the speaker kick panel and it is difficult to accuate when I need to. This will be a nice functional upgrade.
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Ididit Steering Column-6 I will also replace the standard turn signal lever with the Dakota Digital Cruise Control system and lever. Again adding that modern touch. What I really like about the Ididit system is that there are a lot of options and upgrades available. For example, the headlight high beam switch can be added to the tilt or turn signal lever. So, this allows the user to cusomize the setup. I knew I wanted Crusie control, so at first I thought I could not add the high beam switch because it was setup for the turn signals. But, it turns out that the button can also be added to the tilt lever. Very ingenious and I like that.
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Tomorrow I should have some time to play around with the setup. If I do I will post some more pictures. I have a holdiay trip planned for the next couple weeks, so I won't start the big work until I return from vaca.
 

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Discussion Starter · #357 ·
So, I lied! I could not resist that I had a full two days before the trip and everything was packed. So, I thought I could get the steering column installed in a day. I was right. Took about 8 hours, and that includes some electrical additions and troubleshooting.

I learned a lot on this install and have some great tips and tricks to share when doing this work. It will take me some time to post that installation. So, for now, here is a video to highlight the install and features of the ididit steering column with Dakota Digital cruise control signal switch and tilt level with a push button for the headlight high beam control.


Cheers,
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #359 ·
Ididit Steering Column Install


I purchased a custom built Ididit steering column with ignition delete and the companion installation kit. I really needed their install kit as the OEM steering arm and linkage would not work since I was changing from a column shifter to a floor shifter model and I also wanted to mate the column directly to the Lee gear box which is a newer style 12:1 RATIO Saginaw box with 30 tooth spline. The OEM gear box on my 70 El Camino was 16:1 ratio and 36t spline on the output shaft.



The Elky restomod features a Digital Guard Dawg Keyless ignition system with push button starter button. It also has the PCS electronic shifter with paddles connected to a TCI Streetfighter, TH400 transmission. So, I wanted this steering column to complement those components. Of course the column is powder coated black and that matches well too.



I am very pleased with the overall package. I replaced the steering column in about 8 hours. This includes some extra time spent on wiring and troubleshooting. With this install I also added a tilt lever with push button for the headlight high beam dimmer. I also installed the turn signal cruise control lever from Dakota Digital. I will complete this install later. Right now, I just wanted to route the wires while the column was out of the vehicle.



Ok, so here is the photo install. I wanted to take the time to describe the steps for this install as there was a lot that I learned including some things I omitted that made the removal of the old column much harder than necessary.





STEP 1 - Remove old steering shaft from steering column and gear box.



Ididit Steering Column Install-1 Here are parts to the installation kit. My kit included the Double D linkage arm, a 30t rag joint that connects to the Lee gear box output shaft and a Borgensen U-joint that connects to the steering column 48t shaft.

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Ididit Steering Column Install-2 Here is a loose fitting. The rag joint slips into the large D and the u-joint slips into the smaller D shaft. This shaft will need to be cut to length, once everything is installed and locked down. I describe this step later. The joints also feature allen set screws with locking nuts. Each joint has two set screws. These require red thread locker as well. I will paint the shaft black, later on but not the joints.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-3 Here is a photo of the OEM shaft. You can see that this is a D to spline shaft. The rag joint here is custom from Lee. It converts the gear box output shaft of 30t to the 36t spline on the linkage shaft. The upper end has a clamp and connects to the steering linkage for column shifting. As you can see, I already had this linkage removed. So, I wanted a new steering column and setup that was nice a clean without these linkages that I am no longer using.

Important Note I ended up pulling the whole column with Double D shaft attached through the interior, because of this mistake. Be sure to remove the bolt completely from the rag joint and the steering column. Both of these bolts are indexed into the shafts for additional safety. So, when I loosened them I could not separate the parts and ended up pulling the entire column with shaft installed. It took me twenty minutes to figure out that I had to remove the rag joint bolt before I could be free from the gear box.









Ididit Steering Column Install-5 Here you can see the shaft coupler, clamp and transmission linkage arm. Do not remove the spring clip. This does not release the parts. The bolt on the clamp is indexed so you cannot just loosen the bolt. You must remove it completely then you can separate the shaft from the steering column. You need a pry bar. The steering column and gear box should be separated at this point. If not, then like me, just move forward and you can pull everything out from the inside of the car. Bolt in rag joint must be out to do this. You may need to use this method if the rag joint or shaft coupler is rusted on.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-13 Here is the bolt removed from the rag joint. By looking down into the bolt hole I can see that the gear box output shaft is indexed. So, the bolt must be removed, not loosened to separate the D shaft from the gear box.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-6 This is the Double D shaft that has been painted black and has been indexed for the shaft set screws. This is the large end that connects to the rag joint. Please note that the long set screw is designed to lock into the inside of the shaft. This requires a larger hole drilled all the way through to let the set screw pass. This is a safety feature. The other set screw is shorter and locks into the outer wall of the shaft. A smaller drill but that just cuts an index is all that is needed here. You only need to index the larger side at this time. The smaller shaft will be cut to length and the indexing can occur later for that end of the Double D shaft.
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STEP 2 – Remove steering wheel and steering column from inside the car. Start with wheels straight and steering wheel in perfectly straight position. Try to retain this position throughout the installation to prevent steering wheel misalignment at the end.



Ididit Steering Column Install-7 I removed the 6-bolt Momo Jet steering wheel from the NRG adapter and set aside. For removing the adapter plate, I highly recommend using a steering wheel puller. You can do it the old-school way by removing ghe large nut and reattaching the steering wheel and ricking and pulling it until it flies off. But, I have trialed a bunch of wheels and invested in the tool since I knew I would be doing a lot of horn button trials and other configurations. Nonetheless, I used the proper tool for this job, You also need that tool if you plan to remove the horn cam, which is spring loaded and you need the tool to remove spring tension. No way around that.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-8 Another view
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Ididit Steering Column Install-9 Steering wheel off and set aside with care to prevent any mishaps with the wiring, adapters or screws.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-10 Now, disconnect wiring harness for signals and lights. Don’t worry about the ignition wires yet. Too hard to reach right now. Then remove the two large bolts from the steering column clamp. Let the column drop down and be prepared to support it on the seat or with other methods. Once the column is down, remove the ignition wires and neutral safety switch wires.
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Discussion Starter · #360 ·
Ididit Steering Column Install-15 Supported column.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-12 Now you need to pull back the carpet and remove any firewall materials to expose the large firewall plate that holds the lower end of the steering column . This plate has two screws on top and bottom of column and 6 screws connected to the firewall. Loosen the two column bolts and remove all six firewall bolts.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-16 With the firewall plate removed, the old steering column is readhy to be removed from the car.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-17 Here you can see the whole column and D shaft removed. If you have any troubles removing the D shaft first, then just proceed to pull the whole thing out then you can separate them with a pry bar once out of the car.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-19 Here you can see the D shaft separated from the steering column. This was a little rusty in my car. 48t spline on this end. Do not remove the spring clip or transmission linkage. None of this is needed with the new column.
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STEP 3 – Setup the new column. This includes levers and running wires, wiring harness, ignition switch, firewall plate and neutral safety switch.









Ididit Steering Column Install-22 Here is a look at the two columns side by side. Since I have an ignition delete column with floor shifter, there is no cutout or provision in the Ididit column for the neutral safety switch (NSS). That switch requires the column shifter to turn in order to change positions on the NSS and this cuts power to crank with not in park or neutral. I need this switch for my PCS and Dakota Digital systems, but I modified it for my application. More on this later. In this step I removed the NSS and ignition switch mounted on top of the column. No provision for this on the new column either, but I wish it was.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-23 This is a CIRITCAL step. You must match your wiring connector before installing the column into the car. The Ididit column comes with two harness connectors. The one installed is the most common. Of course, my car had the less common, smaller connector and this required pin removal and swapping connectors.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-24 The connectors are labeled with Letters and the instructions are very good in regards to swapping connectors. But, they make no mention of tools for this step. I just so happen to have these fine little tools as I have done other pin connector swaps in the past. This is fun for me. It can be done with an eyeglass screwdriver, but I prefer the proper tools. I removed one pin at a time. The release tool will flatten out the metal tab. This has been bent back into position and ready to insert into the new connector.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-26 The release tool must be inserted into the correct position to work. It requires a very firm push.
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Ididit Steering Column Install-27 Now the pins have all been moved into the new connector that matches the connector in the car.
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