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Discussion Starter #61
Now comes the fun part. The heavy lifting with suspension and reassembly of major engine components is done. I can do the work I love to do. Small projects with a high level of detail. This serves as a reference for me in the future to revisit the work I did in the past. Especially helpful when problems occur and I need to do some troubleshooting. These small projects also help the community and other people that are looking for help and examples of products, solutions and how-to modz.

Here are a few upcoing small projects:

1. New tires to be installed tomorrow. DT has always taken good care of me and they have earned my biz over the years. After several sets of wheels and about 10 tire packages for the 5 cars my wife and I own I made my first major purchase error. The Nitto 555 G2 tires were too small. I bought a staggered set 235/45R17 front and 275/40R17. The car dropped several inches between tires and 2" drop suspension. The right header is hanging 1.5" off the cement. No joke! I measured it again tonight. I already have some flattening of the collector collar from scrapes and the car only has about 15 miles on it since I left DT to try and get a wheel alignment, which could not be done.

2. Install mid-length Hedman Hedders. I will do a full write-up of this prep work very soon. I think this will take me the whole weekend to do, since there are a lot of steps and wait times. I should be able to knock out the air intake project while suffering through the time outs.

3. Change Air intake adapter and blacken the aluminum tube and heat shield.

Here are some future projects:

4. Blacken the MSD 6AL box, distributor cap, and Blaster 2 coil.

5. Rear Baer disc brake conversion, not decided on model yet.

6. SC&C basic bracing package.

7. Detroit Speed selecta-speed wiper motor

8. Billet Headlight switch

9. Lokar engine and tranny dipsticks

10. Paint and body - Soft gray color with all trim, badges and logos removed.

11. Powder coat black all the current chrome trim

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Discussion Starter #62
Nitto Tires and Hedman Mid-Length Header Install to Improve Ground Clearance

Part I​



The new tires were installed today. I now have 2” clearance from the ground to the bottom of the header collector. The stance is also improved. I raised 1” at the rear wheel trim, but it looks higher.



Here is a recap of all the ground clearance specs with each set of tires.

Goodyear Assurance 225/65R17 x 4. These were too tall and I could not turn my wheels without serious rubbing.
FRONT
Front of Tire =12"
Behind Tire = 8.5"
Wheel Well = 25"

REAR
Front of Tire =9.5"
Behind Tire = 13.5"
Wheel Well = 24"

Headers: 2.5"
Muffler: 11.25"
Cross Beam: Did not measure but about 4"

Nitto 555 G2 Tires in a staggered format (Front 235/45R17 Rear 275/40/R17)
FRONT
Front of Tire =10.25"
Behind Tire = 7"
Wheel Well = 23.5"

REAR
Front of Tire =8.25"
Behind Tire = 11.5"
Wheel Well = 22.5"

Headers: 1.5"
Muffler: 9"
Cross Beam: 3"



Nitto 555 G2 Tires in a staggered format (Front 225/50R17 Rear 275/50R17)
FRONT
Front of Tire =10.75"
Behind Tire = 8"
Wheel Well = 24"

REAR
Front of Tire =9.5"
Behind Tire = 13.5"
Wheel Well = 24"

Headers: 2"
Muffler: 11"
Cross Beam: 3.5"



It was raining today. So, I hope to take a test drive tomorrow and grab a few photos on the trip to show off the stance. I did not scrape the ground once when driving home from DT and I made it up the driveway with very little effort.



69 Header Swap-1 Here is the view of the headers off the ground with the suspension upgrade and the small Nitto Tires, 235/45R17 in Front and 275/40R17 in rear.
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71 Header Swap-3 Crazy low 1.5” clearance. I needed bigger tires and new headers.
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73 Header Swap-5 With these small tires I have 5” at frame and if I can get the headers swapped then I can tuck most of the exhaust pipe up around the frame height. If I could have a 5” total clearance I would be happy. From Cross beam will still be around 3.5 “ so that will be the lowest point.
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84-Nitto 555 G2_Front 225-50-17 Rear 275-50-17 Stance-2 I changed the tires today. Now running Nitto 555 G2 225/50R17 in front and 275/50R17 in the rear. It is amazing the difference even by ½”.
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85-Nitto 555 G2_Front 225-50-17 Rear 275-50-17 Stance-3 Here you can see the 2” ground clearance.
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83-Nitto 555 G2_Front 225-50-17 Rear 275-50-17 Stance-1 Raining outside so I just have a garage shot. But, I can appreciate the improved stance with the rear looking taller for sure. Check the specs posted earlier. There are improvements at all measured sites. No more gasser for me.
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The second phase of this ground clearance problem is to replace the headers with mid-length headers. I went with the Hedman Hedder 68600. I did quite a bit of research and considered my options and desires. Here were my priorities:

  • Must improve ground clearance
  • Black
  • Reduce heat in engine compartment around starter and spark plugs
  • Improve performance

I know there is a lot of controversy around wrap vs paint vs ceramic headers. For every pro wrapper there was a horror story for the con. I get it. For me, I see the potential benefits of having the wrap. Plus, it is fun to do projects like that and I like taking risks. If I regret it later, then so be it.

I certainly regret my choice to buy a FiTech EFI and I just can’t imagine using header wrap being worse than not driving my car for three years. Plus, if the headers crack or fail somewhere else, it will cost a lot less to replace than the EFI.



I did a fair share of reading and watching tutorials, but I did not see anyone do the triple application to the headers. Some people use paint then wrap. Some wrap then silicone paint, but I could not find any tutorials about paint, wrap then silicone spray. So, to be different this is what I decided to do.

The benefit is to get the best performance and look. I chose VHT Flame Proof ceramic paint to provide header protection from corrosion. I will then wrap this with DEI Titanium black wrap to provide improved performance by keeping more heat inside the pipes and a cooler engine compartment. Third, I will spray DEI Silicone black spray onto the wrap to provide great color and protection of the wrap from chemicals and the elements. It will resist water penetration as well.



The biggest con of this approach is that careless application of any step may result in overheating the headers and causing cracks or exhaust leaks at the ports. So, I plan to apply only two light coats of VHT Flame Proof, followed by oven baking x 3. Then I will wrap with careful attention to only overlap by ¼” whenever possible. The final step will be a light application of the silicone spray. I think the triple layer of protection will be awesome. Time will tell.





75 Header Swap-7 Here are the project materials: Scuffing pad, scuffing ball, Hedman Hedders with a bag of collector collars, bolts and other parts, Aircraft Paint Remover, VHT Flame Proof Black ceramic paint, DEI Hi Temp Silicone coating and DEI Titanium Black header wrap kit. This wrap is supple and does not need a water dip like other glass wraps.
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77 Header Swap-9 In this photo you can get a good look at the factory header low temp paint. This is to prevent corrosion when in storage. It is designed to protect the steel nothing more. It will burn off the first time the headers heat up to temperature.
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89 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-1 The first step is to remove the factory paint. Mounting the headers to the car was not an option for me. I also thought that baking them in the oven would not likely get hot enough and may leave a mess of residue in the oven. Many people will sand blast, but I do not own that setup. So, my approach was simple, cheap and fast. I sprayed the headers with Aircraft paint remover and waited the recommended 45 minutes. The instructions state to use a plastic scraper and a town to remove the paint. I tried this and it was a mess! All you end up doing is smearing the paint globs around. So, I stopped and resprayed the headers to keep them wet while I set up the power washer. Wow! This was perfect. I used the medium jet with wide spray pattern to remove the bulk of the paint. I then followed with the max spray jet which had a pencil spray pattern. In about 20 minutes I had the paint removed from both headers and I did not have to wash the headers with soap and water. If you have access to a power washer I highly recommend it. I also had no clean up in the driveway or equipment. Everything was fast and tidy.
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91 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-3 Clean paint-free headers drying in the sun.
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Discussion Starter #63
92 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-4 When I was using the max power jet I was holding the headers between my legs to spray off the tight sections. One slight move to far left and I sprayed a layer of skin right off my ankle. This freakin hurt like hell. It was like taking a scalpel to the skin. No wonder why it worked so well on the headers.
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94 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-6 Once the paint was removed and sun dried I moved back to the bench. I used the scrubber ball to finish smoothing out the metal and removing some quick rust formations. This worked great! I was also rolling the headers around on the cement so I picked up some marks on the headers. This scuff ball flattened those spots out perfectly.
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96 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-8 I taped over the port holes and shoved rags into the collectors. Ready for paint.
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97 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-9 I applied two light coats of VHT Flame Proof paint. Looks great. I will let the paint get its 3+ ours of dry time then do some baking tomorrow.
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More details to follow tomorrow when I complete the curing process for the paint then move forward with the wrap and silicone spray.
 

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Discussion Starter #64
More progress today.

I did go out for a nice drive before the wheel alignment appointment. The car handled great, did not pull to the side and did not shake. It is amazing what an extra 1/2" clearance can do for ground clearance. I had a couple scrapes on the headers and that was it.

The road out by the lake is a nice scenic drive. It had a bit of traffic and the cruising speed was about 60ph. I made one high speed pass as I was coming into a long turn, then I saw an oncoming car. I had plenty of room but had to edge my way back to the right lane. I was white knuckling the steering wheel and I could feel my heart racing. It was quite nerve racking, just not knowing exactly what the steering and suspension can do. However, the car tracked well and everythign was great. I figured I was about 85mph at the top speed. Later when I got home I was checking the DD gauges and it had saved my top speed at 96mph. Wow! That damn truck must have sped up to keep me from passing.

I did get the alignment done and the tech had a hard time meeting specs that I provided from SC&C. He actually could not get the caster at 5.5 deg. The best he could do was 7 deg. Now the car pulls to the right and the right tire hits the fender. I need to call Mark on Monday to find out what is happening. I also have more than the 1" of threads showing on the SPC upper arms. Arrgh! I think I may just by a tenholzen alignment set and try to do this myself.

Here are the specs. Somthing is not right and I can;t figure it out. I am not using any shims.
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I took some outdoor shots of the stance. I like the stance a lot. A slightly raised rear end and similar distances between wheel well trim and top of rim.

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Discussion Starter #65
Hedman Mid-Length Header Install to Improve Ground Clearance

Part II​

99 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-11 This is a 3 step bake process. First bake to 200 deg for 30 min with 30min cool down. Then 400 deg 30/30. Final bake is 600 deg for 30/30. My oven only goes to 550, so that is what I used.
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100 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-12 Third bake at 550 deg. I let the headers rest overnight.
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101 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-13 Paint is solid to tell and cannot scratch off.
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102 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-14 The wrap went pretty well. The wire ties take a little practice to cinch and they do not get very tight, so that was a surprise. I followed the DEI instructions for wrapping. I also numbered each of the tubes so I knew the wrapping order. Always start with simple tubes and as close to collector as you can. Then wrap upwards towards the ports. Use a tie at the port. Then start the next tube. On tube 4 start on the collector and wrap upwards to the last tube and finish at the port. Go back with one large tie on the collector. That was pretty fun and easy. I was able to wrap both mid-length headers with one 50ft roll. So, there is plenty of material for two long head
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ers for sure.



103 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-15 I then sprayed the headers with silicone spray. Two light coats. Allow to dry then ready for the final bake for 30 minutes at 400 degrees.
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110 Hedman Hedders Wrap Install-16 After the final bake and cool down the silicone sprayed wrap was crispy to the touch. Ready for install.
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Discussion Starter #66
I decided that something was wrong with the suspension. Since it pulls to the right and the threads are more than 1" past the jam nuts I thought it was too dangerous to drive like that. So, I returned the SRC upper control arm pivots back to the starting position. Instantly, the car drove straight. I did not know what the tech did with the tie rod adjustments, so I left those alone. While the car drives straight with no pull or vibrations, the steering wheel is no longer centered.

I decided to take matters into my own hand and perform my own alignment. I purchased the Tenhulzen 2 wheel alignment kit. Since two shops have struggled to set the alignment, I figured I would give it a try myself.

The first step was to understand the definitions of caster, camber and toe. The second step is to understand how the SRC upper control arm adjustments effect camber and caster asjustments.

Next it to give it a go when the tool arrives. It was not too expesnive and since I plan to do more suspension and rear brake work, I figured my ROI is just two uses.


Here is what I learned about caster, camber and toe adjustments.

Cerreta’s Description of Caster Camber and Toe

SC&C Specs: Caster +5.5deg, Camber -0.5deg, Toe In 1/16” or 0.14deg​



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Negative Camber

Negative camber is when the top of the tire tucks inwards. For a normal car you typically want to maintain a slight amount of negative camber (0.5 - 1°) to have a good balance of cornering grip, braking grip, and tire wear. On most vehicles it's common to have slightly more negative camber (0.8 - 1.3°) in the rear to reduce the chances of oversteer (loss of grip in rear).

SC&C -0.5deg - Adjust (more negative) by shortening both arms equally

Benefits of Negative Camber
Negative camber improves handling by keeping the tire perpendicular to the road as the car rolls; ensuring that the tire's contact patch is evenly loaded. Without adequate negative camber the tire would load the outer portion of the tire and produce less grip.



Positive Caster
Positive caster is when the steering axis is in front of the verticle. In a road car, this would mean that the top of the coilover would be pushed towards the rear of the car. Positive caster creates a lot of align torque (the force that straightens the steering wheel when you go forward) which improves straight line stability of the car. Due to the geometry of positive caster it also will increase negative camber gain (a good thing) when turning. As you increase positive caster the steering will get heavier also, but with modern power steering systems this is rarely a problem. Generally you want as much positive caster as you can reasonably get so long as the car is equipped with power steering.

SC&C +5.5deg - Adjust (more positive) by lengthening rear and/or shortening front arms

Warning: Regardless of what caster setting you use, make sure that your caster is symmetrical. Running a different amount of caster on one side will cause the car to pull towards the side with less caster.



Toe In
Toe is the measure of how far inward or outward the leading edge of the tire is facing, when viewed from the top. Toe-in is when the leading part of the tire is turned inwards towards the center of the car. This makes the tires want to push inward, which acts to improve straight line stability of the car as its traveling down the road, particularly at high speed (highway).

SC&C 1/16” or 0.14deg - Adjust (more positive) by shortening the tie rod ends
 

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Discussion Starter #67
New headers were installed today. Pipes are now a good 3+ inch above the ground. On a test drive, the fans failed and I had to head back to the garage. I seem to have some clunking noises coming from under the seat and floor panels now. I did not have that before. I am not sure what this is. When I shake the muffle tips, nothing seems to bounce. It almost seems like a loose motor mount or something, but I could not see or feel anything obviously loose.


You can see the collector up high into the engine compartment area.
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The wrap looks nice. Collector is high.
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Lots more ground clearance now. This is about the same height as the oil pan cross beam.
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Drivers side. The spark plug wires are a little tighter fit than on the long headers, but I got luck as they do fit without touching the headers and I did not have to replace a custom cut wire.
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The driver side pipe is about a 1/2" lower than the passenger pipe because the shop needed clearance for the tranny linkage. I think they could have went up that 1/2".
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After getting the headers installed I am still grounded with the Flex-a-Lite VSC controller. I had some itermittant fan action, but on the last try and stopped for gas and motor was 236 without the fans working, so I headed home.

I also called Edelbrock today. I needed to address 4 problems. I spoke with Peter and he spent about 15 min with me and teh car to dial in some settings which I think made some immedate improvements:

1. I could not get the IAC below 85
2. Specific tuning for 7000 ft
3. Can I run the fan 1 wire to switch on my Flex-a-Lite fans with the variable speed controller.
4. Improved cranking fuel for easier no-gas pedal starts.

So, Peter walked me through a series of adjustments. The car temp was about 150, so we fired it up and made a few fast adjustments while waiting for the motor to warm. Luckily the fans were working during this tune, but they failed to work for hte test drive right after this tune.

Crank fuel increased to +10%.
Idle and Cruise AFR adjusted
Decel fuel cut set to 1500
We were up temp pretty quickly and I adjusted the idle screw by about 1.5 turns clockwise to dial in an IAC of 8. The idle was about 800rpm now.
The vacuum manifold was around -15 to -17 most of the time. We adjusted the fuel modifier at idle to -8 and cruise to -18. This resulted in a Short FT% to about 0. Cruise was set with RPM at 2000.
Idle Target lowered to 700 from 850
Base timing was increased to 22 degrees
Spark control was adjusted slightly with Idle spark at 18deg and advance set to 1500.

I think this is about all I can remember. When makign a few cranks after using these settings, I was actually able to do it without stepping on the gas pedal any more. The engine was warm though, so I am excited to try a cold start in the am.

Coming along. While I wait on the replacement VSC I may try to tackle the last couple rear end projects. I need to do a diff oil change, and replace the rear axles due to some wear. I have had these parts for some time so I am crossing my fingers that I ordered the right length. Almost everything on this car was not stock, so when you buy parts for a 70 El Camino, but the rear end came out of a different car, then you wind up making some expensive mistakes.

I also have a rear sway bar kit to install. We shall see what I can get done.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
Woohoo! No more FiTech junk and 3 years of not driving this wonderful car. All the little problems I am having now have seemed to come with some relatively fast fixes.
 

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Your 70 El Camino looks marvelous, awesome job, Scott.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
Thanks man!!! I would love to take it to the local car club. I have not been in the past two years becuase it has not been running right. I have the radiator fan VSC on overnight order but it will not be here until tomorrow. I am going to see if I can bypass the VSC and run the fans on manual mode until I get it installed.

I am also getting a loud clunk now after the header swap. So, I woudl like to take it back to the muffle shop and have them look at it. While working on the rear end and swapping axles I saw a spot where the pipe is hitting the rear axle on bumps. I have about 1/2" clearance on the passenger side and 2" clearance on the driver side. I think this is all new and the source of the problem.

I will post some more pics and updates for the rear axle swap and changing the rear diff oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Rear Axle Swap


A couple years ago I purchased some Yukon rear axles. The shop said mine were worn. I never got around to installing them since I wanted to put 500 miles on the rear end to break in the Yukon 3.08 Posi-traction gears. Now that the car is finally running and I had that 500 or so miles I did the swap this weekend.



The problem with buying parts for this car is that almost nothing is original. So, when I try to lookup parts I am making educated guesses most of the time, because I really don’t know if the part was original equipment or something my father-in-law pulled from the bone-yard. So, I bought what I hoped was right for the axles, but there are some many options and slight variations.



Once I go the axles pulled out of the rear end I stood them next to the Yukon axles, did a measurement and the new Yukons were about 1/8” longer. Luckily these were 28 spline, so that was a match. I think it is important to match the length, but I am not positive. Any experiences or opinions out there?



I was instantly bummed, but I saw no point of giving up without doing some dry fitting and more investigating. Also, there is no true way of knowing if the axles I pulled came with that rear end anyways. And, when I pulled the numbers off the rear axle, I bought the axles that were supposed to fit this rear end assembly. After the dry fit I could not really see any distance differences from hub to the back of the axle plate. When pulling out the tape measure, the Yukon was 1.2mm (1/8”) longer. Not very different at all. So, I took a chance and went for the install.



Here is the photo tutorial:



118 Rear Axle Swap-3 I jacked up the car, pulled off the rear wheels and popped the OEM rear diff cover. The rear diff is an 8.2” 10 bolt rear end. I fitted the Yukon 3.08 Posi in 2017. This gear set has about 500 miles now and due for its first oil change. I chocked the front wheels, tossed the tranny into neutral and rotated the wheels to access the bolt pin. I removed the retainer pin then pulled the large center pin out. The last step is to push the axles inward then use a magnet to pull out the C-clips. Replacing the rear axles is actually pretty straight forward. I will add that I replaced the wheel bearings and seals when I placed in the Yukon gears. So, if you are replacing the rear axles, you should plan to change the bearings and seals too. Since mine are new, I was hoping I could just pull the axles and slide in the new ones without damaging the seals or bearings.
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119 Rear Axle Swap-4 This is interesting. I did not notice this before. The axle package clearly shows that the axles are 32 spline by 30 1/8”. This is what I measure on the original axles, but the Yukon axles measure out at 30 ¼”. Maybe I am measuring from the wrong spot. This makes me feel a little more confident that the axles is good to go.
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120 Rear Axle Swap-5 Original is 30 1/8” long measuring from the front-side of the stud plate to the axle spline tip.
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121 Rear Axle Swap-6 The Yukon axles measure out at 30 ¼” using the same technique. But the box says it should be 30 1/8”. Clearly, it is a tiny bit longer than the original, so I don’t know what to think.
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124 Rear Axle Swap-9 What I like about these axles is that it will accept both 7/16” press-fit studs and the ½” screw-in studs. The front disc brake conversion came with ½” x 20 studs. I had to buy new locking lug nuts. So, right now the car has ½” studs in front and 7/16” in rear, but I can use the same locking socking to remove both sets of lug nuts. This was important to me. Also, the versatility of the Yukon axle will allow me to upgrade the rear brakes and I can press out the 7/16” studs for the ½” screw-in studs. Best of both worlds.
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126 Rear Axle Swap-11 When comparing the distance that the axles stick out from the hub shell, you really can’s see a difference. When using a tape measure the Yukon axles do stick out a tiny but more than the originals.
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127 Rear Axle Swap-12 Hard to tell the difference by eye. So, I feel good about the swap after the dry fit. So, I popped in both Yukon axles, tossed on the C-clips and reinstalled the center pin and retainer bolt.
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129 Rear Axle Swap-14 The press-fit studs are easy to just pound in with a 4 lb mallet. You can also press them in with a vise and large socket, but that takes longer. Easy to hammer them in and they will self align as you tap them in.
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131 Rear Axle Swap-16 After everything was reassembled I scraped the old gasket material off the differential, wiped with alcohol, then applied a fresh layer of permatek and then the gasket. I decided to replace the rear cover with a Yukon steel cover. It came painted black and was heavier duty compared to the OEM cover. I also prefer this oil fill hole over using the side hole.
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132 Rear Axle Swap-17 Here is a final look at the rear differential and cover. The brake line tabs were reinstalled and everything got torqued. In this photo you can also see the Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator. Keeping in this location keeps the engine bay clean and simple, but when adjustments are needed, this is much harder to access.
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This project was easier than I anticipated and fun. There was no damage to the seals or bearings which was great because they only had 500 miles on them. Once I got the wheel back on, there did not seem to be any difference compared to before. On test drive, everything was great. No issues at all that I could detect.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Alignment Project​



I had two shops fail to do an alignment. The first shop could not get their equipment on the tire because it is so recessed into the fender. The second shop just made things worse. Not sure what they did, but the car pulled to the right, the passenger front tire rubbed on the fender and the steering wheel was off center.


So, I decided to buy a Tenhulzen 3300 2 wheel alignment system. The rim rods were too short to clear the fender, so a quick trip to the hardware store for some extensions solved the problem.

It takes a little bit to dial in the technique, but it was quite fun. I also had to go back and forth many times before getting what I wanted. I was not able to fully dial in the caster, but I got closer than the shop I paid $100 for an alignment that pulled to the right and had more than the 1" max of thread exposed.

Overall, it took me about 6 hours for the alignment. Not very fast, but fun and I learned a lot about alignment tuning. I would make this purchase again.

I did not take enough pics on this project, but here is the photo journey:

132 Alignment-1 This is the Tenhulzen 3300 kit. It comes in pieces and requires full assembly. The website has written and video instructions. The kit features two plates, stand-off legs, two tape measures with fine level marks and a magnetic digital gauge. This kit will measure caster, camber and toe. It is simple to use and effective.
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133 Alignment-2 This is how to measure caster. You turn the wheel inward, line up the reference plate to through the slot so that it is parallel then you place the digital gauge plate on the wheel in the camber measurement position and zero the gauge. Turn the wheel outward, line up the slot again and take another measurement in degrees. Multiple by 2 and this is your caster.
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134 Alignment-3 Here you can see my caster measurement of 4.05 x 2 is +8.1deg. This was my starting position. I was aiming for +5.5deg. Camber is measured the same way you see in this photo too, only the wheel will be straight and you will lay the plate on the floor and zero it then place it up on the wheel as pictured. This measurement will be your degrees camber.
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135 Alignment-4 Toe is measured as total toe. So, it is important to know if your target specs for toe are total or per wheel. I think my spec sheet is for per wheel toe, but I need to verify. To perform this measurement you setup one plate onto one wheel and the other plate on the other. Slide tape measures under the car and slip into the slots. This design is simple and fool proof. Now you measure the distance on back of tire and subtract from front of tire. If the difference is a positive value then it is a Total Toe In value.
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136 Alignment-5 This is what the measurement side looks like. You can easily pull the tape type and take a measurement at the plate groove. If you pull too tight you will move the plate on the other wheel and have to start over.
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137 Alignment-6 Here is the spec sheet. I did several rounds of adjustments and only recorded a few sets. It is also important to remember that when adjusting the SPC arms you will affect both caster and camber at the same time. So, after adjusting, you have to measure both caster and camber again and this all takes time.
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I think I need more toe in, but I need to verify if the specs are for total toe or per wheel toe first. I also went for a test drive and it is amazing to see the difference after returning to the garage. My camber looks much more negative then when I started teh test drive. Another reason I am glad that i bought the kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Thanks McGovern. Maybe there are a few modz on my Elky that will inspire you. Do you have a build page? I would love to see another 70.
 
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