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1970 El Camino 350 Daily Driver Project - Lots of modern Modz

58K views 495 replies 24 participants last post by  Old Bear 
#1 ·
I am new to this forum. I am hoping to share some of my modz and project work while gaining some insight from others as well.

I have been building a new 2019 Subaru Forester Sport for the past year or so since buying it. I am glad to learn that the El Camino Central forum uses the same forum engine. Should be easy transition.

I am known for posting detailed build projects with lots of photos and hope to do the same for this project. I will share a little about this car and then I will move forward with some projects.

This car belonged to my father-in-law. He bought it in about 1990. It was his pride to work on. He did a restoration himself including the paint. There is nothing original about this car. It does not have matching numbers. He built it the way he wanted to drive it and he was proud of that.

Before his passing, the car had sat untouched for about 3 years. We fired it up and in his last year of life we spent some time working on the car together. Since he has passed, I slowly began moddifying this car in about 2015 to become a daily driver. Like him, I wanted this car to be what I wanted to drive and enjoy. I also want this to be a car to remmeber him by and one that my wife will drive and enjoy as well, especially since it was her father.

Since 2015, my wife feels scared to drive this car. My pursuit has been long but continues with the premise that I want to convert this car into something with a modern and reliable feel. I have no interest in keeping this car original at all. Therefore, this project build is all about performance, comfort, and reliability.

And away we go . . .
 
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#209 ·
Nice thanks for sharing. I have an appointment on Friday and told them all my suspicions, so we will see we they discover.
 
#210 ·
Here is a look at the motor when they pulled it. I find it impressive that it can look like this and then be back inside the car in two days. That is definately more than I can do. That woudl take me weeks and cost a fortune in tools and equipment that i woudl likely never use again. Money well spent.

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#211 ·
I take the car back into the shop tomorrow. Hopefully they can figure out what is causing the vibration.

In the meantime, I picked up the center console so I can install the PCS shifter controller. I am really dissapointed. This did not come out the way I requested. The controller was supposed to be mounted from under the console with the hole cutout so the controller sits flush and only the small section is showing. Instead, even with some serious sanding I was not able to make the interior large enought to properly mount the controller. So, I had to top mount it and it looks stupid. Well, this is just a temporary measure until I upgrade the interior so I am just going to move onto other projects. At least the controller has a dedicated place to be rather then just laying on top of the seat.

Here are a few photos.

Here is the PCS controller mounted to the top of the console. The controller was supposed to fit underneath with a flush mount, but this is not what the builder remembered apparently. There is not way it fits. Not even close. You can see that the flat portion is the same size as the controller outside dimensions. It needs to be about 1/2" larger on all sides so the controller can fit into the backside of the console.
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Here you can see the underside. No way for the controller to fit even after I sanded off as much material as I could for the fitment.
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Then I used long screws to secure the PCS console onto the main center console.
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Cups are back in and now it is placed in teh car. Man this had so much potential.
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Here is a final look at teh steering wheel with paddles, GV push buttons and the PCS electronic shifter mounted in the console.
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#212 ·
Ok, the big weekend is over and I accomplished some major projects. I will detail items #2, 4 and 5, separately.

1. Got the car back from the shop. They pulled the motor to install an oil pan, oil pump and replace some seals and freeze plugs to stop all the leaks. The car now vibrates and we think it is the flex plate. So, it goes back tomorrow and since they have to pull back the trann I am going to have them install a new Hughes GM5TOW 1800rpm torque converter. They also did something to lock up the Lokar dipstick, so hopefully they can remove it, but they likely have to buy a new one.

2. Rolled the rear fenders for tire clearance. I still have to roll out the front inner fenders. It takes time, but man it works great when you have the right tool. No more fender rubbing in the back.

3. Adjusted exhaust system to stop a thumping sound that woudl occur on occasions.

4. Installed Yukon 3.73 rear gears and went for a 100 mile break-in. I learned lots here. I will share some of my experiences to help others and to remind myself of some importants tips for when I work on my wife's Wrangler differentials.

5. Installed a new black ribbed TH400 tranny pan.
 
#213 ·
Rolling the rear fenders took me about 4 hours. I am using a Summit Racing Fender roller. It fit the car just barely, but I do have shorter springs. So, it should work with any stock ride height el camino.

For tools I had a fender roller, heat gun and digital temp gauge.



This project takes patience and courage. You really have to get the roller angles right and use a lot of brute force. More than I was expecting.

Here are some photo descriptions:



Fender Rolling Tools-2 These are the tools for the job. I heated up a 5-6 inch section of the fender metal at a time. I aimed for 140F on the inner metal and tried to keep the outer metal around 120F. The heat is needed to keep the paint from cracking. My paint is about 4 months old, so everything held up great. The roller instructions say not to roll double layer fenders, but it worked. Both rear fenders are double layer.
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Fender Rolling Rear-3 Here you can see the fender has a 3/4" flat lip. With 275 Nitto tires I get a little scraping on the driver rear tire and a lot on the rear passenger tire as there is less clearance. Here you can see my finger. The tire to fender lip is about 1.5 knucles, aprox 1".
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Fender Rolling Rear-6 Thei sis the passenger side and I have 1/2 knuckle of clearance, about 3/8". The bigger problem on this side is that when the suspension compresses the tire hits the inner fender about 2" higher and you can see tire rub marks. I will show you this phots towards the end.
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Fender Rolling Rear-8 The fender roller mounts to the lugs using your stock lug nuts. You then adjust the roller angle and tube length as needed to get the angles needed for each pass.
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Fender Rolling Rear-9 Checking the outer metal to make sure it does not get too hot. I got the inner fender metal and lip up to 140-160F.
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Fender Rolling Rear-11 Driver side lip has been rolled. You can also see two creases up higher on the inner fender. There is no tire rubbing on this side. So, I did not roll it in. It also entends inward toward the center of the car about 2" so it has potential for tire rubbing like the other side.
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Fender Rolling Rear-14 this is the passenger side. The fender lip is rolled in, but if you look closley you can see the rub marks on the inner fender.
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Fender Rolling Rear-15 This is the final look at the inner fender. I pushed it inward a good 1-1.5". After a test drive today, no more rubbing on the rear fenders even on high speed cornering.
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Attachments

#214 ·
Here is the final result with the tires back on and at road height.



Fender Rolling Rear-16 Finger test is about 2" clearance on the driver side.
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Fender Rolling Rear-17 Finger test is about 1.5 inch clearance on teh passenger side. What really made the difference here is that the inner fender was pushed in a lot.
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Fender Rolling Rear-18 Final look at drivers wheel and tire clearance.
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Fender Rolling Rear-19 Final look at passenger wheel and tire clearance.
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#215 ·
I installed a Summit Racing TH400 black ribbed tranny pan to match the Weiland black ribbed oil pan and Edelbrock Fuel injection system and valve covers. Everythign is lookng nice top to bottom. I am having the shop install a Summit Racing black ribbed Flexplate cover tomorrow. Then I will have a matching set.


Sometimes simple installs become a real problem. I read some reviews where people really struggled with the pan and had to do some mods. To my surprise, the pan fit perfectly. The only modz I had to make was to grind a little metal off the GV and Dakota Digital linkage brackets which fit onto the driver side of the pan bolts. No big deal at all.



Photo descriptions:


TH400 Ribbed Pan Install-1 Here is the inside of the pan. The gasket is a perfect fit and very high quality rubber. All holes line up and the bolts hold inside the rubber. I started with 4 bolts and this was super easy.
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TH400 Ribbed Pan Install-2 Another trick is to use a very thin coat of gasket sealant to hold the gasket on the pan so it does not slide around when you mate it to the tranny. Once I got the 4 bolts in everything else was a breeze.
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TH400 Ribbed Pan Install-3 Here is an underside look at the GV, exhaust with H pipe and tranny pan.
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TH400 Ribbed Pan Install-4 Here you can see the matching oil pan too.
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TH400 Ribbed Pan Install-5 Final shot from teh front. Fresh Chevy Orange paint and new matching oil and tranny pans. The Flexplate dust cover is also matching and shoudl go on tomorrow.
 
#216 ·
The last project detail for this weekend is the Rear Differential upgrade from Yukon 3.08 gears to Yukon 3.73 gears. It took me about 20 hours and I learned a lot. I will be much faster for future work. I did run into several problems and I also have some tips to remind myself in the future and for others. You know some stupid stuff that you wish was included in the instructions, but the people that write the instructions are experts and to them some things are just expeted to be understood. Some of the details that I think are really important and worth sharing with others I will mark as "TECH TIP." This will also serve as a reminder for me on the next job.

Specialty Tools Used:
12 ton shop press
6" steel pipe (One for each size bearing. Bearing must spin freely when using the pipe mated to the bearing case).
Oven / heat gun
Bearing puller (failed)
Seal installer
Backlash magnetic dial gauge
Electric 400cfm impact wrench (1200cfm air impact wrench on 125psi air compressor failed)
0-80 inch-pound manual-style (needle gauge) torque wrench
Assorted hand tools, hammers, calipers and torque wrenches


Here is the photo description:

Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-19 I made a setup sheet to track my progress and to simplify the instructions. I would refer to the Tukon instructions when needed, but the setup order and adjustment tips are all on my sheet. Here is a quicklist of Setup Steps:
1. Oil everything
2. Pinion Trial
3. Set Pinioin preload tension
4. Initial carrier setup with shims
5. Carrier needs to be tight. Drive side shim determines the backlash
6. Check Pattern
7. Adjust as needed with additional trials.




Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-1 This is a GM 8.2" rear end that was stock with highway gears, 2.56. In 2017 I installed a Yukon Posi carrier and 3.08 gears. I still want (need) more holeshot power so I finally decided to add a Gear Vendors Over/Underive to my TH400 and to swap out the gears to Yukon 3.73. This gives me the holeshot power (hopefully) and still a drivable car in overdrive at 70-90mph. In this photo I pulled off the cover and started some cleanup with the 3.08s inside.

I only had about 2000 miles on these 3.08s so my plan was to keep the carrier bearings and races intact and only change out the pinion bearings. The bearings used on the 3.08s were identical to the 3.73s so I checked all tolerences and decided to keep the races in place for these. I did replace the pinion seal and I was planning on pulling both bearings off and to bore them out for setup bearings. Most of this plan worked, but not all of it. I was not able to remove the larger pinion bearing.
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Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-5 The first step was to remove the carrier and install the new ring gear. This was straight forward, but I read other installs and watched videos where the bolts are LH threads. So, I did waste some time tightening the bolts instead of loosening them with an impact wrench.
TECH TIP: Yukon uses standard RH threaded ring gear bolts.
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Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-6 The smaller Timken pinion bearing came off when I punched the pinion gear out of the differential case. Time to make a setup bearing.
TECH TIP: Use a flap wheel attached to a drill press. I held the bearing in a vise with Park Tool vice attachment designed to hold bike hubs and axles. This made short work of honing the bearing, about 3 minutes.




Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-7 I would hone then check my work. The setup bearing shoudl freely slide onto the pinion shaft, but shoudl have no play at all when shaking the bearing.
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Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-8 Slips on like butter. Smaller bearing from 3.08 pinion is ready for action.
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Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-9 The jaws of this bearing remover tool were too thick to safely grab under the bearing. So, I used a dremel to work it down and when in place the bearing would spin, but as soon as I placed it in the shop press, I distored the bearing so I stopped to prevent more damage. This bearing puller did not work for me.
TECH TIP: I bought the larger pinion bearing from Oreilly's for $20. I then honed this out to make a setup bearing. If you don't have an old pinion with matching bearings, you can just buy new cheap bearings and hone them. Yukon want $160 or so for their setup bearings.
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Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-10 In about 20 minutes (after I bought the new larger bearing) I had both bearings honed and ready for action on the new 3.73 pinion gear.
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Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-12 Now is time to add some shims (I started with the recommend 0.74mm (0.030) and slip on the larger bearing. Insert the pinion into the case. Now hold in place with one had and then slide on the smaller bearing from the other side. Then install the yoke, washer and new nut. Be careful here but use your impact wrench to set the tension. You will need a small inch pound manual torque wrench. The tension should be 12-15 inch pounds when rotating the pinion. Do not measure the initial force required to turn the pinion but rather the rotational tension.
TECH TIP: Do not use the pinion seal or crush sleeve during setup. You must have setup bearings otherwise you won't be able to saely remove your expensive bearings.
TECH TIP: I always used the new nut for setting the pinion bearing tension and I used the old nut when pounding the pinion out of the case for the next setup trial.
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#217 ·
Yukon 3.73 Gear Install continued


Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-13 Once the pinion is set now you can move on to the carrier setup. On each side of the carrier you will need shims. In this step you will set the backlash. This part took me longer than it should have. I spent a lot of time sorting all my shims and measuring their thicknesses. This is also the part where I was stupid and the instructions did not tell newbies how to setup the shims. My differential uses an "Outside Shim Design" The Yukon master install kit includes a bunch of shims with assorted thickness. It also includes two sets of sandwhich shims. These looked wierd to me and it took me awhile to figure out that you take those skinny slices of meat and stick it into the center of your two thick bread slices. I was an idiot and tried to slide those skinny shims between the carrier race and the housing seat. I was bending them of course.
TECH TIP: Skinny shims are inserted into the sandwich shims to protect them from damage.
TECH TIP: The driver side shim determines backlash (.006-0010). The passenger side is used to keep the carrier tight inside the case. You must use a soft face mallet to set these in place. If it wobbles or falls out easily, it is too loose.
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Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-14 This is the sandwhich shim stuffed with a few thin shims on the inside to protect them. I do not have a picture of the backlash dial indicators or this step. But, this took me the longest time to get right. Once I had the backlash set at .008 I was ready to proceed.
TECH TIP: When the carrier will not rock out of the case then you know it is tight enough. In order to remove the shims use a 90 degree HD pick and insert into the case hole on the passenger side and pull the shim stack out. Then everything can be removed for the next trial.
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Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-15 Once the pinion tension and backlash is set it is time to check the pattern.Paint up the gears and rotate the gear.
TECH TIP: Rotate the ring gear not the pinion gear.
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Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-16 This is my pattern on the first attempt. I got very lucky here.
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Yukon 3.73 Gear Install-17 Once the trials are complete set everything aside and record your final shim stacks for the pinion bearing and carrier shims. Now it is time to press on your large pinion gear. Put on the shims, heat up the bearing, slip into place and then press into final seated position. Now add the cruch sleeve and set this loaded pinion gear next to the differential and ready to grab.
TECH TIP: The oven works! Heat bearing to 300 degrees for 10 minutes. I did not freeze the pinion gear like some people say to do. Then slip the bearing on. Mine slid down to the base. I really think I could have done this without a $150 shop press! I could have used the pipe and a 4 pound mallet to seat the hot bearing into place.
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Now insert small bearing into the differential case and prep / pound the pinion seal into place.
TECH TIP: Once the seal is in place that bearing stays there and cannot come out without damaging the seal.
TECH TIP: Use a heat gun and apply heat to the bearing from the case cover opening. Do not get the seal too hot. Apply heat to the bearing to about 180F. Now you can slide the pinion gear (with crush sleeve) into position. The hot smaller bearing will slide partially onto the shaft enough to allow you to get the yoke, washer and nut threaded. Without heat I could not get the nut onto the threads of the pinion gear.
TECH TIP: Use electic impact wrench to add tension. Use manual torque wrench and go slow. Raise tension to 12-15 inch pounds on rotation.






From this point on eveything goes really fast. The hard part is over. Install the carrier with shim packs. Tap into position. Add carrier caps and torque to spec. Check final backlash and pattern. Record these.

Insert axles and install C-clips. Insert locking pin and bolt.

Install gasket and pan cover. Torque bolts to spec. Add differential oil. Mount wheels and perform gear break-in procedure as stated in the manual.

These final steps took me about 2 hours. It took about 18 hours for setup portion. I really think I could do this again in about 6-8 hours per differential. Maybe even less. I do not think I would use the press either. Adding heat to the bearings is like magic.

When I have time in teh next few days I am going to go back to that 3.08 pinion with the installed larger bearing and apply heat to just the bearing with a heat gun. I think I can get the bearing puller jaws onto the bearing enough to seperate the bearing from the shaft with maybe a blow from a hammer onto the backside of the tool to knock the bearing off without a press. If this trick works then heat it is for now on!!! And I won't have to buy any setup bearings at all for future gear swaps.
 
#218 ·
I forgot to include my setup notes and final shim stack specs. WootWoot, got it done. I have done the 20 mile and 100 esay drives to break-in the gears. Once I get the car back from the shop I can begin faster accelerations and really see how I like the new gears. At 500 miles I need to replace the diff oil.



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#219 ·
I am sure you will figure it out. Watching the diversity of what you have accomplished makes me wonder what you dou for a living. Good luck with your Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4
 
#220 ·
I hope so. Thanks for the compliment. I am a manager in a hospital.
 
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#222 ·
😂
 
#223 ·
I am super bummed. The shop called me yesterday to tell me to come pickup the car. They got it back together but could not figure out the vibration and said they were done. I was not pleased and did the best I could to tell them that they broke the car and that I took it in for an oil pump and oil pan replacement and to stop all the leaks and now I have a motor with an undrivable vibration. I now have to take this to another shop for repairs and while I really want to say good things about my experience with them, this makes it impossible.

He called me back an hour later to tell me they are going to pull the motor back out and take a look at it. Today I get the call to come down to the shop and check it out. So, first off the stuck dip stick was removed and it was shredded. Apparently they said there was no lower dipsick tube in this motor. They did not find one and when the put the motor back together the dipstick got sucked up by the crank and wrapped into a groove on the crankshaft. Then he pointed out all the scarring on the cylinder walls and explained that this was bad and caused by a lack of oil in the motor because they found the pickup tube in the oil pan unattached and that was explaining some of my low oil pump pressures. He suggested that I just buy a new motor. He suggested a ZZ4 motor which is actually no longer available and it has vortec heads which I cannot mount my ProFlo4 onto this as it needs to fit onto standard cylinder heads.The shop further pulled the main crank bearing off and discovered a lot of scoring and said this was an accident waiting to happen and the motor needs replaced or rebuilt.

I cannot begin to express my disgust. I was feeling sick after getting the call from the shop and seeing the motor. All I wanted was for the car to stop leaking. It started with a rear main seal, new oil pan and oil pump that was it. They broke this motor and introduced a vibration that was never there before. They keep saying this motor is internally balanced but I recall my father-in-law telling me that he had troubles with the flexplate and I recall him having to balance it or something. The shop put in a new one and said the old one was not cracked or anything was wrong with it.

The motor is an SBC 350. It is not original and from what I can tell it came from a 74 car with 190hp, 2 barrel carb with 2 bolt main and 2 piece rear main seal. The shop told me the block is a 3970014. I also had some codes marked in my book and that includes an engine VIN #14K475843 and Code # T0102CMR. I know this has low horespower and it woudl be nice to upgrade, but I have $1500 in this work with another $650 owed and a broken car with a bad vibration and apparently now a motor they say is not worth putting back into the car.

The shop did offer that if I buy a new motor they will not chrage any additional labor to get it running right (if they are capable) and return it to me. They do seem sincere, but several times the owner pointed out that they are not a hot rod shop and this is not the kind of work they do. I feel like they broke my car and I lack the confidence in them to proceed.

So, the dilemna, is that I can have them put everything back together and I can hope the vibration is gone, but I doubt it. I will have $2200 into the car and I will need to take it somewhere else to fix it or to replace the motor. I do have a shop that I really like and trust and they have built /installed two other motors for me in other cars and I just get in and drive away and everthing was perfect and they are fast and good. But, they are expensive. So, this scenario seems bad and it is very likely going to cost about $7k or more and take a lot more time.

The other option is that I can buy an ATK HP89 crate motor (blurprint and GM motors are out of stock with a 2+ month wait list from what I can seee) long block for about $4000 with shipping and core. This is a gen I motor with 390hp and without vortec heads and seems to be a match for my current car parts and headers. I really was not in the market for a new motor, but there is always that lingering idea of how nice it would be to have a new motor with no leaks and a lot more power. Part of me does not trust that they can do this work and the other part of me does not trust that the car will be right without a new motor.

I have done a lot of work to this car under the hood, tranny, rear end, suspension etc. A lot of upgrades done, but the motor is still a 225hp motor built for the highway and I would love to have somthing more fun. I also have a feeling that I will never have another opportunity to upgrade to a new 390hp motor for $4k. I just wish I had more trust in this shop.


I would appreciate any comments, thoughts or suggestions.

Here are a few photos.

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What do you guys think of the bearing caps? These do not look that bad to me. They look dirty, but the shop says these are shot and that the motor should be replaced as this is a sign for bad things to come.
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#225 ·
Thanks. That sounds expensive. I am making some decisions today. I will check into this.
 
#226 ·
So, I had the night to think about my options. I made one more trip to the shop to investigate further about how the dipstick was removed and if a piece was stuck int eh crankshaft then that woudl explain the vibration. The shop siad they got the dipstick out, put the motor back together and the vibration was still there. After they pulled the motor, there was a section of the dipstick in teh pan, but it was not trapped in the crankshaft and not responsible for the vibration.

So, I decided not to risk putting in a motor that I will have to have removed for the third time. I decided to by a performance crate base engine.

There are very few available and even less that do not have vortec heads. This is what I need to install the Edebrock Pro-Flo 4 XT fuel injection. I found two similar motors in stock at Summit Racing. I had good conversations with tech support at both ATK and BluePrint. In the end I decided on the BluePrint motor. They have a better reputation and the owner at my local NAPA said he had a terrible experience with ATK. The BluePrint also comes with a dyno sheet, which is pretty awesome.

I think I bought all the parts needed for the motor swap and with any luck I shoudl have the El Camino back within a week. That would be great.

This is the motor I selected. It is a nice upgrade from the 74 SBC 350 with 190HP (maybe 225 with my modz)
 
#227 ·
I created a build request for my local shop for this project. It also serves as my record. Here are the specs and expectations.




BluePrint Crate Engine Upgrade BP35513CT1 Base – 355 CID, 390HP

Purchased April 2021 with 30 Month 50,000 mile warranty

1-308-236-1050​



Details:

  • Rebuilt seasoned SBC 350 Gen II from 1986 – 2000 (Ref vehicle for parts is 1995 Camaro Z28)
  • Balance is Internal / External - Internal front and External rear
  • 4-bolt main with 1-piece rear main seal and passenger side dipstick
  • Engine VIN# Engine Code #


Specs:

  • HP & Torque: 390 HP / 410 FT LBS
  • Compression Ratio: 10.0:1
  • Aluminum BluePrint Cylinder Heads drilled for standard & vortec intake-H8002K
  • 64cc chamber, 2.02" intake/1.60" exhaust valves, 195cc intake/75cc exhaust runners
  • Hydraulic Roller Cam
  • .495 Intake .503 Exhaust, 220 In. / 224 Exh. duration, @ .050 - 112 degree lobe separation
  • Cast Steel Crankshaft, 3.480" Stroke, OEM type 5.700" connecting rods
  • Hypereutectic Pistons
  • 4.000" Bored .040" Over
Drilled and tapped for clutch linkage

  • Timing: Initial = 10-16 deg, Total = 32-34deg at 3500 RPM, Firing Order = 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2
  • Spark Plugs: NGK 7938 or NGK 6953, gap 0.35”
  • 91+ Octane fuel, 5QT oil
  • Break in oil 30W conventional, change at 500 mile, then switch to full synthetic at 6000 miles
  • Service oil 5-20 full synthetic
Includes:

  • Oil pan, timing cover, Melling HV oil pump, valve covers


Required Parts:

  • Spark Plugs – Provided new NGK 6953
  • Harmonic Balancer – Reuse unbalanced PRW 6.75” with timing tabs on old motor
  • Flexplate – Provided balanced Summit Racing HD flexplate 6 bolt for 11.5 BCD Torque Converter
  • Motor Mounts – Provided a new set of Summit Racing polyurethane motor and tranny mounts
  • Fuel pump delete plate – Provided edelbrock
  • Passenger side Dipstick – Provided new Lokar dipstick with downtube. Use RTV for install of downtube if loose. Mount top to header bolt.
  • Valve Cover Breathers – Use PCV valve from old motor and use new breather and attach hose to Pro-Flo XT body or existing vacuum line
  • Distributor – Reuse Edelbrock tuned for Pro-Flo 4 XT
  • Intake / EFI – Reuse Edlebrock Pro-Flo 4 XT and CAI system
  • Valve covers, Water pump, PS pump, alternator – Reuse from old motor with serpentine belt system






Engine Build Requests

  • Everything should be available for this new motor installation. If something is not compatible, please call me.
  • Most of the parts that will be going onto this motor from the old motor have less than 3000 miles.
  • I was told that this engine will come with a rust prevention paint job. This paint will flake off with heat. Please paint this motor with high quality high temp black gloss paint. Please tape off and do not paint the cylinder heads.
  • I hate chrome, please scrub the chrome timing chain cover with scotch-brite and paint it gloss black with the rest of the motor.
  • Use all new gaskets to minimize any leaking with the brand new motor, valve cover gaskets, water pump gaskets, etc.
  • We will leave the included oil pan, pump and timing cover in place to minimize leaks and save time.
  • BluePrint does not require core return. You may dispose of my old engine block.
  • Please return the Melling Oil pump, oil pan, valve covers and any other used parts or new take-off parts that are not integral to the block. I would like to keep these.
  • Please return any instructions and the Dyno sheet that came with the motor.
  • Install the new transmission mount that came with the motor mounts.
  • Install the new finned flexplate cover
  • I have many sensors in the old motor. Please reuse them. These are very specific to the Dakota Digital gauges and the Edelbrock equipment. They are not interchangeable. If something breaks or is not compatible with the new motor, call me. I do have a couple extras depending on which ones need replacement.
  • I will provide you with the Lokar transmission tube adapter in case you need to add more tranny fluid (I forgot to give this to you. It will make the job easier)
  • I will provide you with the computer for tuning the Eldebrock system. Please set to the Edelbrock specs over the recommended BlurPrint specs if there is a conflict. The motor may run a little rough until I can talk to tech support at Edelbrock for a recommended computer tune for this new motor.
  • Please take lots of photos and be sure to write down the engine VIN and Code so I can look these up for future reference.
 
#229 ·
The motor was supposed to arrive today. It was a no-show. Very bummed. There is no way to get the car back tomorrow now and I will be out of town for a week so now I have to wait another week. Hopefully they can get the job done and work out any kinks and that week. But I don't trust that they won't just sit on it until Thursday of next week. That stuff infuriates me.
 
#230 ·
Fedex Freight reported that the motor was held up in Phoenix due to an "Emergency." When I checked first thing this am, the motor was in route to Flagstaff. I was very scared that the emergency was my motor falling off a truck.:eek:

The motor arrive today, but of course it was too late to do anything. I am out of town all week next week on a trip, so it will kill me having to wait another week. Hopefully the shop will get to work on this early next week as I requested so any setbacks can be overcome before I get back into town.

The good news is that I was able to snap a couple shots of the motor in the crate. The shop will be sending me some more photos as they uncrate the motor and prepare it for installation. I snagged the dyno sheet and warranty packet and headed home to share it with my wife. Of course she was not that impressed, but this motor has a dyno test of 401.5 HP at 5800rpm and a peak torque at 419.2 at 3800rpm right in the sweet spot of the rpm range.

The torque is over 400 from 3200rpm to 5000rpm. Again, this is the sweetspot for my style of driving and I am very excited.

BluePrint performs the dyno with headers so likely no gain or loss there, but I will be getting an HP increase of about 20HP with my Edelbrock ProFlo4 XT and cold air intake system. I estimate this motor at 420HP total. So exciting.

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#231 ·
I have been out of town on a trip, but got word today that after a few bugs the shop was able to get the motor installed, all leaks stopped (tranny pan leaking again) and break-in oil has been added. The car went out for a test drive and held 80 mph without any vibrations. Thank goodness that is gone.

I'm very excited to jump up from about 250HP dressed to about 420Hp dressed. I love the black engine paint and the alum heads.

I plan to pick up the car on Monday after work and I will try to get some after work easy miles on the car for the 500 mile break-in period. The new 3.73 rear gears will also complete the break-in period too and I pan to get all the fluids changed so I can start driving a little harder.

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#233 ·
I got the car back yesterday. I was under the impression that everything was in great shape. When I picked up the car, they told me the motor has a "very little hum" at 3000rpm but everything else is great.

I drove the car and I would describe this little hum as the exact same vibration that I complained about before spending $4000 on a new motor that the shop said was the cause of the vibration.

Nonetheless, I fired the shop today and I have an appointment at another shop in town that I have had excellent service and relations with in the past. They are expensive, but they have installed two motors in two other cars for me and when I picked up those cars I just drove away and everything was perfect.

Of course, I wish I took the car to this shop first, but I can't fix that now. I just hope they can fix what another place broke and it does not cost me a fortune to do it.

I informed the first shop of my dissapointment in them today and my intentions to take the car elsewhere to repair the vibrations. I told them I would report back on what the real problem was and hoped they would have a discussion with me about making this right. They agreed to have that discussion. I remained as tactful as i could, but dammn, I am so sad about this. :cry::cry::cry:

To be honest, I never would have purchased a new motor if I was not seriously misguided here, but then I would not have a 401.5 Hp motor that feels and runs super strong. I have about 300 miles on the break-in period. So, moving on I hope I can get this vibration problem solved.

Here are a few photos.


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