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Discussion Starter #21
I got my very cracked dashboard cover off and the front windshield removed without glass breakage. The only problem is that the antenna wire into the glass is broken at the glass - no easy way to repair it.

I'm guessing that the glass will need to be replaced. My next task is to get the dashboard out. It also appears that the air hoses under the dash will need some repairs.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I spent some time today figuring out more electrical issues and getting my new ignition key installed. I discovered that I needed to clean up a body ground point to get more things to work using my large 12 volt, 15 amp power supply - no battery yet.

And sure enough, several more things came to life with a clean ground. Two headlights (the only two installed), both front parking lights, the heater blower and the windshield wipers all work now. Lighting to the rear of the car is currently either removed or disconnected but I have faith it would have worked if installed.

I'm getting gutsy now and might try to crank the motor tomorrow night with a battery installed. I'm still undecided whether to remove each spark plug and fog the cylinders with oil before twisting the ignition key. I probably will though because I'd hate myself if I didn't and broke something while it was cranking. I will leave the spark plugs out while cranking to prevent hydro lock and I'm kinda' curious if I get a spark at any plug. I fully expect compression to be low when I attach a compression tester. And this engine got very hot at some point in its history because the passenger side exhaust manifold has a major crack in it . . . not really sure on the engine's overall condition.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I got my spot weld removal drill bits yesterday. What am amazing tool!! After a huge struggle with rusty bolts, nuts and clips, I got my passenger side front fender off tonight for a small rust repair. The inner fender is too rusty to save because of battery induced corrosion and I worried that the lower rear corner rust had gone through to the cowl but that was not the case - the rear edge reinforcement metal is in good condition. I will do the new sheet metal repair tomorrow.

The other fender should be easier because it is a relatively recent replacement fender from 1971 or 72 that fits the car but does not have the side marker lights at the lower front area. I'm not sure I can precisely cut these slots to make this later fender work on a 1970 car. Might be time for a new fender and inner fender on this side because many of the bolt holes on the inner fender are cracked.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I don't know why it took me so long to crawl under my car to drain the oil and remove the filter. Just one of those jobs I'd rather not do even with a big pan and rubber gloves, its not much fun.

I should have not been so worried. The dipstick shows "something oil-like" on it but it is about an inch and a half above the full line. OK, maybe a little overfilled by the previous owner? Water??? I put a 9/16th wrench on the drain plug and unscrewed it and . . . . nothing came out. Not a drop of anything.

Maybe this explains a little about why my engine is locked up tight. I can't wait to see what the rebuilder discovers.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I got my drivers side front fender off this afternoon and it was a lot easier than the passenger side. Thankfully, there were no rusty cowl surprises on this side either. Those massive bolts holding the radiator core support to the frame came out easily and the core support is out.

Then I removed my brake master cylinder that is still full of dried brake fluid and the brake booster. A You Tube video for disconnecting the brake pedal clip and pin under the dash was very helpful.

Working my way across the firewall, I will pull the wiper motor off next though it might help to yank out the distributor first. I will tag the spark plug wires for position first before pulling it.

A buddy of mine has an engine hoist and with everything gone, those engine mount bolts are easy to get to. I need to cut up the exhaust pipe and jack up the transmission for cross member removal. That motor will be out very soon.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
The wiper motor and distributor came out earlier this afternoon. The bottom of the distributor shaft is a pasty, blackish-orange, greasy, grimy and gritty mess - tough to get out. I had to tap the vacuum advance back and forth with a hammer to loosen it for removal. My cylinders will need to be bored out to the width of a bowling ball if the rest of the engine looks this bad. I think I will tackle the dash board removal and the AC / heater bulge on the firewall for removal next.

I have uploaded more pictures to Photobucket but I can't seem to get back into that folder to capture a link to post it here.

My big question to anybody here is how do the rusty holes in the outside bottom corners of the rear window get fixed? And please don't say that the entire roof gets replaced because that seems like mega-overkill and expensive. Any ideas? I've seen worse on You Tube El Camino cars but no answers to this problem.

Edit: Uploaded a picture manually here. It's not just the holes I'm worried about but also the flat runs of steel that the black tar glass sealant and glass lay against. I don't see any aftermarket steel patch panels for any of this.

Many thanks,

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #28
What is the trick for disconnecting the underhood wiring harness at the firewall bulkhead connector? Does it simply pull apart? I don't want to buy a new harness - I'd rather refurbish this one. Save some money.

Many thanks,

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Very nice web site and I may register. But the link didn't really explain how he got it apart though he did mention a bolt that I have not found yet. I will look for it.

Thanks,

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I did not do much with it tonight but I did get the carb removed from the engine. I'm glad I did not spend a lot of time trying to get the starter to spin because the inside of the intake manifold was / is filthy. Not that the rest of the inside of the engine is clean. I have very serious doubts this engine can ever be made to run again.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Hello,

After brushing away dead grass and a lot of dirt, I found the bolt that holds the wire harness to the firewall. After removing that bolt, the two clumps of wires easily pulled away from the back side of the fuse block.

I also broke loose two bolts in the intake manifold in readiness to mount the chain for the engine hoist.

I stopped by the local Chevrolet dealer parts counter today at lunch to talk about crate engines. For $2300 plus tax but no shipping, they could have me a brand new General Motors 350 CI, four bolt main "mostly" long block at the dealership tomorrow. This is with a 36 month and 100,000 mile warranty and at this price, I thought this was an exceptionally good deal. I forgot to ask what the compression ratio is but I can't imagine its anything that normal pump gas can't handle. Has anybody ever bought one of these engines? I did not plunk any money down today but it is certainly on my mind for the future.

And finally tonight, I noticed something very oddball about the drums on the front brakes and yes, I should have noticed this sooner - call me dense. The left side drum has no cooling fins on it - completely smooth. The other three are ribbed / finned but not the left front. Just another crazy thing that previous owners do.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I got both doors removed tonight and did it solo with two jackstands to balance the load - no damage done, luckily.

I also managed to get all four nuts and bolts removed for the transmission cross member at each frame rail and will work on the two bolts at the transmission tomorrow.

I tagged each spark plug wire with its firing order number and disconnected the wires and the distributor cap.

And finally, I removed the oil pan drain bolt one more time and actually stuck a wire up through the drain hole and twisted it around hoping to get the oil out . . . still nothing. I think this engine is hopeless for anything except as a core exchange.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I got a lot of the rusty metal cut out of the smuggler's area yesterday. It took a while using the 3 inch and 4.5 inch cutting wheels and there's still some to be cut. And these don't work very well in the corners and tight spots. And I always think I'm about to set myself on fire with all of the sparks these things throw!!!

So . . . I'm going to use my 25% off coupon at Harbor Freight on Monday to buy an electric shear. With the coupon, I should be out the door with tax at a little over 40 bucks on item 62213 or 68199, whatever they have in stock. The reviews on it are good and I think it will make short work of the remaining rusty floor sheet metal.

I will report back next week on how this tool works.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #36
I bought my Harbor Freight electric shear today and it will be a good addition to my sheet metal work but is certainly not perfect. It maxes out at 14 gauge steel and the shear can't get past the areas where two sheets of floor metal overlap - this is not the fault of the shear. But the shear also struggles where the stamping process for creating the floor pan leaves dimples and flanged areas in the floor. Again, this is not a fault in the shear.

But the shear also struggles where the metal edge can vibrate and it takes a lot of pushing on the shear in this situation. In areas where its relatively flat steel, this shear cuts very nicely. Getting the shear to start cutting in a very rusty area is also not easy.

I'd buy this tool again and it will certainly help me on my floors. But I will not be able to completely retire my cut off wheels or stop worrying about setting myself on fire from the cutoff wheel sparks!!

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #37
The speedometer hit 70 mph in my car tonight and I added about 1.3 miles to the odometer!!! Uh. Umm. Using an electric drill to drive the cable to see if the speedo still worked and if the odometer turned.

I got a lot done tonight. My reciprocating saw made quick work cutting off the exhaust pipe just behind the manifold. The transmission cross member has been removed. Both engine mount bolts have been removed and the speedometer has been disconnected all to get ready to pull this engine out very soon.

Rick
 

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I have a 70 Chevelle engine wiring harness if you need it mate. Its pretty clean, I just needed the horn relay. let me know if you need it.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I might need it but I will know more when I get my old harness pulled out an unwrapped. Hopefully, I can refurbish this one but I will keep you in mind.

Rick

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