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Discussion Starter #621
Hello,

Here goes my first post in the new format on the site.

I have been thinking about how to run sound deadening on the B-pillar posts behind each seat and the pictures are what I've come up with. With the modern retractable seat belt reels in the way, I could no longer use my original B-pillar cover plastic. The material pictured in the first image is that corrugated yard sign plastic that is inexpensive and easy to trim but I did not directly create that piece. I first used pieces of thin paper poster board and a Sharpie marker to trace out a template pattern - then cut with a band saw and a sharp knife. Once I had this poster board trimmed to fit nicely, I could proceed to the corrugated plastic. Fortunately, the B-pillar areas on each side are mirror images of each other so my best poster board traced piece was used to trace the outline on both pieces the corrugated plastic.

After cutting and test fitting the plastic, I sprayed each plastic piece with some spray paint that dries with the "hammered" finish. This was the best idea I could come up with to duplicate the roughened finish on the original Chevy B-pillar plastic but my effort falls well short. I then painted it with blue paint to match the basic color of the seats, back wall, door panels and what my headliner will eventually look like.

The second picture is with the plastic installed on the passenger side and with the seat belt reel tightened down. I did need to cut down the plastic to fit nicely around the back side of the reel because previously the plastic moved the reel just enough off of vertical to not allow the webbing to play out - it was locked up tight.

I still need to put a few screws into each piece of plastic to get them to lay perfectly flat. And the front edges of each piece at the door opening will eventually get some windlace over them to make it all look at least a little OEM.

Rick
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Hi Ric
Hello,

And away we go on this rebuild thread. Its a blue, 1970 model with a 307 motor, PS, PB and AC. It has a brown interior and the remnants of what appears to be a white vinyl top which all seems to an odd set of color combinations. Must have been a special order car???

The RPO code tag is missing but the Fisher Body tag is clearly visible. I will try to ake some use of its codes soon.

I knew the car was missing its AC compressor, the power steering pump and the radiator. But I noticed tonight that the harmonic balancer is missing and the passenger side exhaust manifold has a large crack in it. I can only guess that the engine got extremely hot to crack that manifold. The fuel pump is also long gone. So I still have no idea if this engine is locked up or not.

I tried to drill out the ignition key lock tonight and eventually gave up after trying six different drill bits. That metal from 1970 is some tough stuff!! I'm borrowing the steering wheel puller and compressor tomorrow to finish this the correct way.

The floors are rusty and perforated in quite a few places but the rockers at least appear to be solid. I will get the car up on jack stands soon when I can finally steer the car into the shop.

More to follow but it's going to be cleanup time here for the foreseeable future.

Rick
 

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Hi Rick;
My name is Rick too, and like you, I am working on a 1970 Elky. I don't know where you are nut I have an extra AC compressor that you could use as a core for replacement and some small block AC brackets. I am in So Cal. OLet me know if you want the parts, free of course. I also have a factory assembly manual and service manual if I can look something up for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #624
Hello Rick,

And thank you very much for the offer. Really appreciate it. I have moved on from the idea of a return to needing very many stock engine parts because I'm now running a donor LS engine out of a 1999 GMC Sierra truck. My El Camino got parked about 1982-84 with plain water in the block (no antifreeze) and over those many winters from then to 2017 when I got the vehicle the water froze and cracked the block. This made the engine un-rebuildable so I decided to head in a different direction.

But again, thank you for the offer on the parts and the lookup research. If you need any assistance with your 70 EC, please let me know.

Another Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #625
Hello,

My tail gate trim is on but I had to resort to a You Tube video to figure out those so called "butterfly clips". The brass base goes down into the grooves of the trim piece and then the wire is pulled clockwise until it can fit into the upper groove.

Fortunately, I had kept my original tail gate that I could use for measurements on where to drill the holes for mounting. That tail gate was bashed and battered and who knows if my measurements are correct but the trim pieces are on and I will live with the placement as it is.

Next up is the body trim later this coming week. You may note that my bed top rail trim is also not in so good of a condition but I will get around to replacing it eventually.

Rick
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Discussion Starter #627
Hello,

I have managed to get the body trim installed along with the bowtie badge on the grille. I can't say that I'm 100 % happy with my mounting and alignment efforts on the body trim but that's easy enough to fix. My tail gate "Chevrolet" badge might get mounted tomorrow.

I have also studied and taken notes on nearly every You Tube Chevelle headliner installation video I can find. My headliner kit and windlace material has arrived and that will be my next big task.

Rick
 

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Hello Rick,

And thank you very much for the offer. Really appreciate it. I have moved on from the idea of a return to needing very many stock engine parts because I'm now running a donor LS engine out of a 1999 GMC Sierra truck. My El Camino got parked about 1982-84 with plain water in the block (no antifreeze) and over those many winters from then to 2017 when I got the vehicle the water froze and cracked the block. This made the engine un-rebuildable so I decided to head in a different direction.

But again, thank you for the offer on the parts and the lookup research. If you need any assistance with your 70 EC, please let me know.

Another Rick
You're welcome. Good luck to us both.
 

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Discussion Starter #629 (Edited)
Hello,

As mentioned above, I have gotten started on the installation of my headliner with windlace and finally attacked this job yesterday. This is a medium blue kit from Original Parts Group that includes PLENTY of material for the headliner plus two additional generously large cuts of material for covering the B-pillar post "sail panels". The "windlace" is the stiff rubbery stuff that covers the edge of the headliner material at the edge of the steel body and more importantly . . . protects your very vascular scalp from a serious laceration climbing in and out of your El Camino.

I spent much of yesterday cleaning the edge of the steel where the original headliner glue, my coating of Lizard Skin sound deadening and blue paint overspray would interfere with the headliner glue adhesive. I'm using some black "3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive 8008". A You Tube video indicated that it would work and I had a tube on the shelf. I also took a small cut of the material and tested it with glue at the edge of the back window and it stuck very tightly. No worries there.

The actual headliner for an El Camino has three cloth / muslin / canvas "tubes" of material sewn into the top side of the fabric that each of the headliner "bow" wires slide into. I had previously marked each hole in the roof of the EC that each bow wire came out of with red paint so that each of these wires could go back into the same hole for proper tension on the headliner material. The muslin cloth tubes are kinda' tight and the bow wires are quite stiff and not easy to get into each hole. But somehow I managed and that is the stage I'm at now. Please see pictures.

Its up and it ain't coming back down if I have anything to say about it. There's still a lot of slack and wrinkles in the material but most of it will disappear out the sides towards the doors and B-pillar. But the muslin cloth tube for the bow wires extends nearly to the left and right edges of the material and this tube prevents taking out this side to side slack. The only way to remedy this problem is with very careful use of a very sharp razor knife to cut some relief into the ends of the cloth tube so that the headliner material can slide down the bow wire towards the side. Extreme care must be taken to only slice through the muslin tube and NOT the headliner material.

I'm now making those tube slit cuts and made a few after work earlier today. As these cuts are made, the small clip clamps must be loosened and the headliner material re-arranged to check the wrinkle-removal process. Eventually, I will need to make relief cuts in the actual headliner material especially at the corners to manage the wrinkles but I'm nowhere near that stage. I'm also a long way from trimming away excess fabric or reaching for my tube of glue.

Slow progress from here. Measure, stretch and clamp many times, cut once. Or many, in the case of the tubes, slight cut and test, slight cut and test. I will also likely need to apply some low setting heat from my thousand watt heat gun to the headliner fabric to get it to relax a few of the more troublesome wrinkles.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #630
Hello,

Headliner efforts continue. I have trimmed off the excess fabric on all four sides and got the B-pillar sail panels covered with headliner material. I have also slit the hole in the fabric to poke the dome light wires through. I did have to make a quick trip to the store to buy more clips to keep the tension going everywhere I needed it and the heat gun heat really helped to relax the fabric. With adding a few snips to the cloth tubes on top and hitting it with the heat, a lot of those wrinkles in the previous picture are gone.

The front edge of the headliner fabric has been glued and I'm waiting overnight before moving on to gluing the sides. The loose ends of fabric on the sail panel will be used to tuck into and wrap around the front edge of the B-pillar and then the windlace covers the wrapped and tucked edge. I was only mounting the sail panel covers temporarily to check on fabric coverage coming down from the roof. The spray 3M 90 Contact Adhesive is a much better choice than the 3M 8008 for sticking the headliner fabric to the sail panels.

I'm hoping to get a lot more finished tomorrow and maybe finish it Monday night.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #631
Hello,

I have been busy this week but not every day. I had to wait for some windlace for the area above the driver and passenger window to come only to find out earlier today that its not right. So I will be ordering the correct stuff tomorrow.

But I did finally get the windlace installed earlier today around the front and rear glass. That stuff needs to be pried apart a little (but not too much) to get it to clamp onto the metal that frames the front and rear glass. They also give you too much which then has to be trimmed to length with a cutting wheel.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the tops of the sail panels that don't lay flat and tightly to the headliner. I'm thinking maybe use a screw that I can paint the head to match the color of the headliner but I have not decided. I have tried to force them to curl in the direction I need for flatness but that only lasts a few minutes before they return to a raised position.

The absolute hardest thing I encountered in doing this headliner was getting one screw to start threading in to mount the dome light. I had a pick to probe through the material to find the hole but then I'd lose it in the time between removing the pick and placing the sharp end of the new screw in. I finally used the small drill bit to find the corresponding hole on the other side to help keep the dome light positioned long enough to get a screw in on the other side. Finally, I got it done.

I also suffered a bad high beam headlight last weekend and got around to swapping the bulb today. It was a bulb that was in when I got the EC back in 2017 that worked so I figured I would reuse it. But note the odd failure mode. It cracked that way in the housing but the new one is in and working well.

Rick
 

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Discussion Starter #633
Hello Rich,

Thank you very much. The headliner is not 100 % complete yet but close. My new sun visors will be here in a few days and up til now I've been using the sun-beaten and tattered saddle brown originals from 1970. I've also ordered additional correct windlace for the door areas.

I've also decided that a set of the plastic coat hooks will be used to get the tops of the sail panels to lay flat. I'm sure they are more appropriate for a 1970 Chevelle than an El Camino but this will work to make the panels lay flat.

Rick
 
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