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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all, I just purchased the 3 service/assembly manuals from OPGI but am still having trouble tracking down old wiring on my 1972 El Camino. Does anyone have a diagram they could share of the engine bay? I'll admit that me and wiring don't go together that well, so any help is appreciated.

The car is a 1972 Custom model that is all stock (as far as wiring goes) with the exception of an added HEI.

Thank you.
 

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First off, thanks for both replies and follow up questions. I have ran a 12g wire from the fuse block (IGN) to the HEI to take care of the resistor wire, so should be good there. And for info, before all this investigation took place the car did run and drive, but has been garaged for some time now. Now on to the issues.

I have opened up all the wiring looms to find old burnt wires and copious amounts of crimp connectors that I am replacing with new wire and soldered connections. I have 4 wires in the looms that go nowhere, are not properly terminated and I am having issues with locating if they actually go to something that I am not aware of or if they should be "capped". They all come from the bulkhead on the drivers side firewall below the power brake booster.

  1. Tan 16g that was in the bundle with the temp sending wires.
    1. I also have a black and a green going to the temp sender, and most all diagrams only show a green?
  2. Blue 16g that was in the bundle going to the alternator
  3. Orange 14g that was run along the firewall to the passenger side
  4. Black 14g that was run along the firewall to the passenger side
 

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I also have a black and a green going to the temp sender, and most all diagrams only show a green?
n the 70's there was some temp switches for a light with 2 wire thermals..
it was tied to the TCS too I think..
Rockauto pic

do you still have the TCS relay and vacuum valve in sight there somewhere
near the firewall / distributor ??
[ Transmission Controlled Spark ]
link> TCS Thread

heres the bulkhead pic.. its the inside so your looking at the back of the connector..
 

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Thanks for all, but the first color schematic is not really readable to me, the black and white one is however. I do not see anything related to a TCS on the car, and the bulkhead photo seems close. The orange heater wire on my car is black and fused until it exits the passenger side of the wiring gutter and then turns to orange. The blue wire is hooked up to the oil pressure switch on the rear of the block as shown. The wiper wires are all accounted for. The purple starter wire is correct (had to splice burnt section), and the pinkish coil resistor wire has been capped when I switched to the HEI. So I am thinking the following is where I am at right now:

  1. Tan 16g that was in the bundle with the temp sending wires. This is a TCS artifact and can be capped?
    1. I also have a black and a green going to the temp sender, and most all diagrams only show a green? TCS artifact and ignore?
  2. Blue 16g that was in the bundle going to the alternator. Still unsure.
  3. Orange 14g that was run along the firewall to the passenger side. Still unsure.
  4. Black 14g that was run along the firewall to the passenger side. Still unsure.
Sorry to be such a pain, me and wiring have never been properly introduced.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just went ahead an ordered a full color engine bay wiring diagram from OPGI, hopefully this will take care of the questions.
 

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3. - Orange 14 ga. A/C Truck? - that might be the Hi Speed connection to the fan circuit. Comes from the relay at the end of the wire trough that runs along the top of the firewall. Relay is behind & above distributor.

1.1 - I bought my Elky 29 years ago as an $875.00 53,000 mile used car. The original temp sending unit had 2 wires. When I replaced the temp sender ( at some point??) parts stores only had a single wire sender available. I "THINK" that the black wire was the ground for the TCS relay.
 

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Sorry to be such a pain, me and wiring have never been properly introduced.
don't worry about that, I don't understand the wiring for the TCS ether,,
I see what there trying to do, I didn't back at that time tho,,
probly why it all got deleted back in the day, along with the
seatbelt interlock/interrupt/buzzer, and key-in switch buzzer..
 

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3. - Orange 14 ga. A/C Truck? - that might be the Hi Speed connection to the fan circuit. Comes from the relay at the end of the wire trough that runs along the top of the firewall. Relay is behind & above distributor.

1.1 - I bought my Elky 29 years ago as an $875.00 53,000 mile used car. The original temp sending unit had 2 wires. When I replaced the temp sender ( at some point??) parts stores only had a single wire sender available. I "THINK" that the black wire was the ground for the TCS relay.
I believe that the Hi-Speed connection is accounted for already, but I will double check. And yes it is an AC truck, although my horn relay is just above my power brake booster. I'll also check in to the "TCS ground" that you mention, that seems like it makes sense or is at least in the ball park.
Hopefully the new schematic I ordered will keep the conversation going.

Thanks for the reply, very much appreciated!
 

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don't worry about that, I don't understand the wiring for the TCS ether,,
I see what there trying to do, I didn't back at that time tho,,
probly why it all got deleted back in the day, along with the
seatbelt interlock/interrupt/buzzer, and key-in switch buzzer..
Yeah, I'm all for deleting as long as it is done correctly. So far this has not been the case on this car, but we are getting closer.
 

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87 Elko just rebuilt the 305. The heads are rebuilt, new Summit 1102 mild cam. Just got her running today. Stock quadrajet carb with all vacuum lines hooked up as far as I can tell. Disconnected the computer and set the timing to 0 degrees as recommended, reconnected computer and seems to run good. The idle solenoid is cutting out after a few minutes at idle. Engine is up to full temperature and at idle I watched as the solenoid just turns off and retracts, of course the engine immediately stops. Then it’s hard starting because it doesn’t pop up until the engine starts. The only way to start it is to feather the gas pedal. Seems like the computer is getting some type of crossed signal to turn off the solenoid. Does anyone have any ideas. I’am confused? Thanks.
 

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I'd have to ask my self a bunch of questions first
i'd be checking everything that changed
was the cam degreed-in ??
timing tab / balancer checked for true TDC ??
valves /lash too tight ??
if the heads were bought rebuilt, were they leak checked,,
or was a compression or leak-down test done ??
whats the idle vacuum reading now compared to before??
is the computer working, MCS ticking, timing changing, any CEL ??

a few more degrees of timing wont hurt if your not going WOT pulls..
or a pop-sickle stick under the hot idle screw..
that might let it idle, so you can do some more testing..
with a TBI or CCC, usually 6-8* degrees of initial timing is ok,
before you start getting knock sensor hits, and retarded timing,,
depending on the fuel / load / temp / motor condition..

if you change the throttle idle position, then the idle/transfer ports change too..
once you start turnin screws on those, you need special tools,
dwell meter, and one of those secret E-Qjet picture books..

never had a 87 and no 87 book
not sure if the throttle kicker just works off the AC on/off control,, or what..
I think the power steering pressure switch and AC high-side pressure kills
the AC compressor too, not sure if it kills the idle kicker or not,
but its all tied together..
 
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