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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After many hours in the garage over this past winter the interior restoration is now complete!

Restoration included complete removal of the interior, dashboard etc... Floor boards were in great shape they were repainted then sound deadener applied. The new carpet also had sound deadener upgraded on the pad so it's super quiet inside. Door panels were removed and restored inside of doors were cleaned and lubricated so all windows work as they should.

Speedometer was refaced, all new cables, new heater core, AM/FM stereo gold light radio restored (Gold light is an upgrade since you could only get AM FM stereo without the gold light) along with original speakers reconed and all new A/C ducts.

Bench seat recovered, dash chassis frame and top pad restored etc...all the way down to working glove box light!

It took dozens of hours but well worth it in the end.

Learned a ton how to remove, restore and replace an A body dash along the way.

Have fun out there......
 

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X2. 😮
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks .. I did lots of research and went to great lengths to put the car back to stock. It had slight modifications under the hood and just worn out on the interior.

The Elky had a high-end paint job on the no-hit body just before I bought it.

It was completely disassembled and painted so there's no paint lines anywhere.

The hugger orange paint looks great on it.

El Camino Central was lots of help as I went through the restoration so Thanks to all who contributed to my questions, research and part search.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Not much too much done on the wheels and tires.....new tires , wheels were in great shape so they only had to be touched up... Wheel wells were painted and drums painted. New brakes of course.
 

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After many hours in the garage over this past winter the interior restoration is now complete!

Restoration included complete removal of the interior, dashboard etc... Floor boards were in great shape they were repainted then sound deadener applied. The new carpet also had sound deadener upgraded on the pad so it's super quiet inside. Door panels were removed and restored inside of doors were cleaned and lubricated so all windows work as they should.

Speedometer was refaced, all new cables, new heater core, AM/FM stereo gold light radio restored (Gold light is an upgrade since you could only get AM FM stereo without the gold light) along with original speakers reconed and all new A/C ducts.

Bench seat recovered, dash chassis frame and top pad restored etc...all the way down to working glove box light!

It took dozens of hours but well worth it in the end.

Learned a ton how to remove, restore and replace an A body dash along the way.

Have fun out there......
Please tell me about removing and replacing your drivers door panel. I need to do some lock bar work on my 72. They say if you dont pull it correctly you may not be able to get it back on. Tell me everything you can think of when it comes to inner door lock rod, the 2 plastic door lock rod clips, and the bellcrank, PLEASE
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Absolutely I'm glad to help as much as I can however all of my mechanisms were true and straight. All I needed to do was clean and grease them and slight alignment where necessary, total removal was not required.

Sorry to disappoint you but I didn't completely disassemble the door mechanisms only the panel and cranks.
 

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Absolutely I'm glad to help as much as I can however all of my mechanisms were true and straight. All I needed to do was clean and grease them and slight alignment where necessary, total removal was not required.

Sorry to disappoint you but I didn't completely disassemble the door mechanisms only the panel and cranks.
Sorry for the confusion, thats exactly what Im talking about....removing the DOOR PANEL and replacing it. The 3 holes on the right side and the 3 holes on the left side of the panel. Tell me about removal and replacing door panels, the 3 clips on each side that hold the panel snugly against metal door. PLEASE
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Oh okay, Yes that was a very delicate slow job.

The very first thing you do is buy a plastic interior tool removal kit, you can get them at Harbor Freight for under 10 bucks. Those plastic u-notched different shape and size handles are excellent for door panel removal. Do not use a screwdriver as it will pull the cardboard through the metal pin. You need to support the metal push pin with the notch on the tool so it has equal pressure as it's pulled through the hole in the door. Make sure the notch is on either side of the pin otherwise it will rip through the cardboard.

There are little plastic inserts that stay in the door itself. One of mine came out but I was able to epoxy it back on the door so when you push the pin in it stays in place.

You will also need the window crank removal tool which is typically available at AutoZone or Pep Boys or something like that. (The black tool)

With the plastic tools I was able to remove all of the pins with no damage. Once I had the panels off I put a dab of epoxy on all of them just for added security to make sure the pins stayed in the cardboard.

Hope this helps...
 

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Oh okay, Yes that was a very delicate slow job.

The very first thing you do is buy a plastic interior tool removal kit, you can get them at Harbor Freight for under 10 bucks. Those plastic u-notched different shape and size handles are excellent for door panel removal. Do not use a screwdriver as it will pull the cardboard through the metal pin. You need to support the metal push pin with the notch on the tool so it has equal pressure as it's pulled through the hole in the door. Make sure the notch is on either side of the pin otherwise it will rip through the cardboard.

There are little plastic inserts that stay in the door itself. One of mine came out but I was able to epoxy it back on the door so when you push the pin in it stays in place.

You will also need the window crank removal tool which is typically available at AutoZone or Pep Boys or something like that. (The black tool)

With the plastic tools I was able to remove all of the pins with no damage. Once I had the panels off I put a dab of epoxy on all of them just for added security to make sure the pins stayed in the cardboard.

Hope this helps...
OK thank you!
 

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Wow! Best fit I have ever seen for the padded dash. Mine does not even come close. Fighting with OPGI (BLAAH) has been going on for years. They say "it" fits perfect on their collection of cars so there is something wrong with mine. These trucks were just not made all that well, so one has to put up with some miss fitting. You have gone way past that. Thanks for all your efforts. It looks great. I am in the process of putting an interior in my '71 from a company called TMI. Hope I can the fitment that you have. Good job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Thanks...I restored the original pad the best I could to ensure it would fit properly.

Where the pad meets the dash on the driver side it did not fit well when I bought the Elky but did put a new clip there and with one push of the pad it "slid/clicked" into place and really tightened up the gap. All other clips were original and stayed in place so I put reinforced tape over each one where it slides into the pad so they won't fall out if the pad is removed again.

Quick tip: If any of the screws holding the pad to the dash are loose or stripped out, a short coarse thread sheetrock screw does the trick since the head is flat and thin, grabs the pad nicely and sits flush in the countersunk hole in the plastic dash.

Good luck with your resto!
 

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