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Discussion Starter #1
What is the correct torque setting for the pan bolts on a 2004r transmission?
 

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I’ve never used a torque wrench on transmission pan bolts. Just snug, but never tight. I remember back in the day seeing something like 7 to 9 Lbs.Ft.

If it’s a stamped pan the torque is more critical than on an aluminum pan. Peen all of the bolt holes so they are slightly concave when looking down at them from the inside of the pan. That way your bolt heads contact the surface of the hole and can force the flats down before flattening the area around the holes. If using a rubber or cork gasket tighten each bolt down only until you see very slight ”squishing” at the bolt hole. Fill it and then check for leaks. Tighten only if necessary if you have a leak. Over tightening will definitely cause it to leak.

If you’re using an aluminum pan just crank them down a bit tighter, as you won’t deform the sealing surface. And consider a LubeLocker gasket for aluminum pans. You can use them over and over.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you. I will work on it. Thanks for the information.
 

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Director Region 19 Owner of the KLRMino
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depends on the bolt size, but mine were like 10-11ftlbs
 

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Thanks Josh. That gives me something to work from.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just learned that I have a new plastic gasket to put in. I'm also going to put in a new filter in while I have it apart.
 

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Director Region 19 Owner of the KLRMino
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I just learned that I have a new plastic gasket to put in. I'm also going to put in a new filter in while I have it apart.
good idea(y)
 
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Discussion Starter #8
I started removing the pan bolts today. I have an issue with the bolt on the front of the pan. I can't get a socket or wrench on it. Is it okay and safe to take the bolts out of the cross member and transmission mount to slide it a heads bit to get a tool on it?
 

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I started removing the pan bolts today. I have an issue with the bolt on the front of the pan. I can't get a socket or wrench on it. Is it okay and safe to take the bolts out of the cross member and transmission mount to slide it a heads bit to get a tool on it?
Shouldn’t be any problem. But I’m wondering if you are having problems with a bolt on the FRONT of the pan if moving the crossmember will do anything for you?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I just can't get a socket or wrench on it, due to the cross member being to close to the front of the pan. I'm trying to remove the pan to put a new gasket on it.
 

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I just can't get a socket or wrench on it, due to the cross member being to close to the front of the pan. I'm trying to remove the pan to put a new gasket on it.
Dumbest of the dumb questions, so please forgive me. But maybe try to take that last bolt out with some needle nose pliers? It shouldn’t be very tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll give it a try. So far I have taken out the bolts on driver's side.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I couldn't get it out without moving the cross member. In my opinion this leak was supposed to happen. My friends helped me install it. They put a new filter and gasket on them. The gasket they put on was cork. When I got the pan off it had quite a bit of sludge in it. This transmission came out of a Cadillac that had 55,000 miles on it and hadn't been driven for a while. So the sludge was something I figured would happen. I put a new filter in and cleaned the pan up. I hope to get it installed tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you VinnyD. The information is much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I got the transmission pan back on today and tightened up. Probably won't get the fluid in till Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had a little time today, so I put 6 quarts of Royal Purple transmission fluid in the tranny. I'll have to clean the floor and then start it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I started the Elk today and warmed it up. I seen a couple drops of fluid on the cross member. I checked to see if any bolts were loose and tightened them up. I put the cross member back in place.
 
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