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Discussion Starter #1
I'm poor, just found 4 inch crack on engine block when fixing exhaust. It is accessible without removing the block. Get it welded? Cost estimates? Could this be a 12 pack job for a friend who welds, or is it more of a 300$ professional only job? I am not too concerned about profession ability since I will SOMEDAY replace the whole thing, just need it fixed.

Thank you oh wise el camino aficionados :hail2:
 

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I was going to say pick up the actual block on CL (craigslist) 305,327,350, and just transfer 305 stuff over to new one. $300 bucks to weld!!! You can get a used 400 sbc block for that! Now im not saying the whole motor, just block. I dont know just thinking of ideas for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
since this is my daily driver and school starts in 30 days, I don't think I'd be able to swap an engine block with 7% mechanical skill level, but if I could wrangle a 350, and somehow magically find a seriously alcoholic friend willing to do it, would it bolt exactly on everything the same way? No need for any other parts?:secret:
 

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Funny you said "350" because it is thr same size as the 305 except the bore is bigger in the 350. If im not mistaken everything should work, now you would need possibly new belts?? But you could hook it all up, put the 305 heads on and transfer everything, i think it will even hook up to trannygood too.
 

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Welding the block may work. But before welding you must clean the cracked area well enough to be able to see the ends of the crack. Once you have determined the ends, you must drill a hole at each end, about 1/8th in diameter. This will keep the crack from running, which it will do if not stopped by drilling. Naturally the block must be drained and dry. Moisture wickking out while welding is a no-no, causes porosity. Preheat and maintain 225 degrees while welding. If possible, I would peen the weld after welding to eliminate shrinkage.
If the crack is a hairline that is not big enough to see through, why not try some block seal??? It may get you through this tight until you can replace the motor with that 350.
Just my thoughts.
 

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in the car you can try brazeing it but as pops86 said you need to keep it hot then slowly cool t or it will crack again if cooled to quickly
 

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What caused the crack to begin with?? The problem with the welding is if you can weld it the heat created will most likely damage or cause gaskets like the head gasket to fail or leak, valve cover ect,,,, if it was me,, find a good donor engine and swap it out,, I know your poor,, try a sealer from NAPA,, blue,, blue something,,, it looks like washerfluid but they claim it will seal even a block like yours,, its 60.00 + - ,, follow the instructions exactly,, drain the engine,, by removing the two drain plugs (9/16 hex head) radiator and heater core,, thats your best bet in your case,,, call NAPA,, matty man
 

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If the crack starts where a freeze plug is, it can be a pain to keep a plug in there so this might be a way to get it to hold water until you can replace that engine. I'd go to autozone or advance and get a can of block seal for 15 bucks or so and one of these plugs if needed and go to school until spring break then replace the engine.http://www.google.com/products/cata...sa=X&ei=kvRMT77VBouTtwe87dxB&ved=0CG0Q8gIwBA#
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I've been learning a lot about JB weld online and wondering why nobody has suggested it. at the moment JB weld is the best option price and situational for me at the moment. There is no way I can find someone to drop a new block in there in a few days without costing a lot more than I have. I'm kind of in a really sticky situation. I have rent for next month, no job and a vehicle with a cracked block... full time student. Thank god I don't have any kids or other bills!
 

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JB Weld is good stuff but I don't think that putting a "patch" on the outside of a hairline crack is the best answer. Like stated above go get a 10 - 15 $ can of block seal at the parts house and try sealing it from the inside. JMHO
Just a note: The GM dealers carry a block seal for the diesel that they had so much trouble with that is absolutely awesome. It also costs about 70$, but I have seen it seal unbelievable things in those engines.
 

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JB Weld is good stuff but I don't think that putting a "patch" on the outside of a hairline crack is the best answer. Like stated above go get a 10 - 15 $ can of block seal at the parts house and try sealing it from the inside. JMHO
Just a note: The GM dealers carry a block seal for the diesel that they had so much trouble with that is absolutely awesome. It also costs about 70$, but I have seen it seal unbelievable things in those engines.
X2 on the GM sealer--it's darn near a permanent fix, I use it a lot on supercharged engines that have a tendency to "lift the heads" under a lot of boost. But like you said it is pricy and I don't think a cracked 305 block is worth spening a lot on, which is why I made the other suggestion...just my opinion.
 

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Again,, what caused the crack in the first place??? the reason I ask if you go with the sealer and after reading the post again the GM sealer is worth the $$ but what caused the crack the first time?? If it is old and weak coolant then putting in sealer without new coolant is just a waste of time,, after working in a machine shop shop for 10 years blocks just dont crack without a reason,, I am just trying to find out why and how to keep it from happening again,, if you use the sealer you MUST drain all old coolant out completely,,, just tryin` to help,, matty man
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I will definitely be draining the coolant before doing any kind of fix, even if its a mix-in sealer, which I will probably do on top of jb weld just to make sure (couldn't hurt) but the thing is, it isn't a hairline crack, its a pretty visibly leaking crack. about 4 inches long. I will take a photo next time I can get around to lifting it up. I'm not sure what caused the crack, if you didn't read my intro post, I got the car from an ex heroin addict, there's no telling what crazy fiascoes he got into (or sped away from).

Either way this will be something that I will need to fix very soon. It is my next immediate fix. I just finished hurculinering the bed which I will be making a post about soon. I love how it turned out, just need a few days to let it dry (about to put the second layer on now):yell:
 

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i may have a core 305 i am not sure what generation it is.is your dipstick on the pass side or driverside. my experiance has shown that when a chevy cracks on the outside there is usually a crack in the lifter valley abount an inch down from the deck on the same side as the external.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
dipstick is on the passenger side, crack is on the driver side, about 6 inches below the farthest right spark plug (one closest to the steering wheel)
 
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