El Camino Central Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've posted a couple times over the last couple years on trying to get my ZZ4 crate motor to run cooler than it does with not a whole lot to show for it. So far I've put in a new heavy duty water pump, new hoses, put in new electric fans out of an F-body Camaro, several 160 degree thermostats, and as of last night a new Summit aluminum radiator with pretty much nothing to show for it. The car seems to like to live right around 180ish with the AC off but when I turn the AC on it jumps up to around 210 just idling. I know that the car has had this issue for quite some time before I've owned it as the previous owner ran it with no thermostat whatsoever. The only 2 things I can think of now are that maybe the AC compressor is putting so much drag on the engine that it heats way up. The other is maybe a head gasket issue at this point? The oil always looks okay though and while I know that the coolant is always a bit dirty after draining it isn't ever oily. Lastly, I have always had the fans hooked up to my FAST EZ-EFI computer system and so I know there isn't really any fan control other than on or off. They seem to move quite a bit of air however but seeing as I still have an issue I wonder if its worth trying a separate fan controller.
Kind of at a loss here at this point. I drive this car more often than my other cars nowadays and while it doesn't ever really see any more traffic than my daily commute I would like to be able to take it on a good long road trip and not have to worry about it overheating in i95 stop and go traffic somewhere. Anyone have any advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
This doesn't seem unreasonable to me. My cast iron V6 runs between 200 and 220 with 180 degree thermostat. Can't wait till the more knowledgeable weigh in on this topic.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,227 Posts
Yes, 210 is no problem. In fact, temperatures around there and even a little higher are good to keep unburned fuel and combustion condensation boiled out of your engine oil. This makes your oil and your engine last longer.

Rick

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
210 seems ideal with ac running does it jump to 230 or 240???
It pretty much stays around 210, it hasn't really gotten hot this year in S FL yet so who's to say how it will end up in really hot weather.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,135 Posts
I use the Lincoln MKlll fan and shroud ,DCC controller with a Spectra stock rad. and have absolutely no problem sitting idling with the a/c on for twenty minutes. If your temp stays around 210 w/ac that sounds pretty good
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,984 Posts
50* over the T-stat temp, at idle, in the winter, says there is defiantly something not working right..
.
do you have the heater hoses hooked up and working??
or any recycle/bypass on the pump/cooling system ??
.
where is the Temp sender ? head or intake crossover ??
.
where is the idle timing at ??
are you running a vacuum advance ??
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
528 Posts
I use the Lincoln MKlll fan and shroud ,DCC controller with a Spectra stock rad. and have absolutely no problem sitting idling with the a/c on for twenty minutes. If your temp stays around 210 w/ac that sounds pretty good
For point of reference, my 04 Sierra runs 210 with A/C on idling in the parking lot at work in the Texas summer while still blowing cold air out the vents while I contemplate going back in or just going home.....

Joe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
50* over the T-stat temp, at idle, in the winter, says there is defiantly something not working right..
.
do you have the heater hoses hooked up and working??
or any recycle/bypass on the pump/cooling system ??
.
where is the Temp sender ? head or intake crossover ??
.
where is the idle timing at ??
are you running a vacuum advance ??
Temp sender is in the intake manifold, the heater hoses are hooked up but they do push water even when the heater isn't turned on, I'll have to check that. Also keep in mind that it may be winter but its been around 85 here in FL the last couple days so its basically summer for a lot of other places. I am running vacuum advance, not sure what the idle timing is as I had a shop adjust it the last time the distributor was replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,984 Posts
I fully understand 85* in the winter..
it was 40* here this morning, but it'll be 85* tomorrow..
.
what temp does the FAST EZ-EFI think the fan-on/off temp should be ??
it will probly need to be adjusted lower for a 160* t-stat.. is it adjustable ??
getting the fan-on/off temp set just right is the hardest part of elec fans,,
ether they run all the time, way too much, or not soon enuff..
if the fan temp sender was in the radiator outlet, it really simplifies things..
.
do the fans come on with the A/C ?? you may need a separate switch for that..
or tie the fan relay trigger to the A/C switch,
but then it needs a way to turn off when on the hiway,
or the fans run all the time, and don't last very long..
.
running a 160* t-stat ruff-ly doubles the work the cooling system has to do
compared to a 195-200* t-stat,
which [as said] is actually better for keeping the oil boiled-off, and fuel mileage..
.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I have the EFI set to turn the fans on at 150 at the moment. I'll pick up a timing light over the weekend and see what I can do about checking out the timing again. It also has occurred to me that being that I run a serpentine belt on this engine, the water pump may not be a reverse type as should be utilized. If that were the case however, I would think I would be having worse overheating than 210 though, no?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,984 Posts
you can check the drive hub on the pump,,
it should have 2 dimples if its for reverse rotation..
in the old days, the rebuilders didn't allways put the same parts back on,
and some years had a slightly different bolt pattern...
long time ago, someone told me the wrong pump may keep up at idle,,
but it's not even close on the road... I never tried it...
WP REV ROT jpg.jpg
.
are the fans close enuff to the radiator ??
they have to be really close without a shroud..
are they both pulling air thru the radiator ??
how big is the new radiator, got a link ??
.
x2 on the timing light, cant speak for the quality now days,
but i'v had a craftsman advance/dial-back timing light for a long time..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I've posted a couple times over the last couple years on trying to get my ZZ4 crate motor to run cooler than it does with not a whole lot to show for it. So far I've put in a new heavy duty water pump, new hoses, put in new electric fans out of an F-body Camaro, several 160 degree thermostats, and as of last night a new Summit aluminum radiator with pretty much nothing to show for it. The car seems to like to live right around 180ish with the AC off but when I turn the AC on it jumps up to around 210 just idling. I know that the car has had this issue for quite some time before I've owned it as the previous owner ran it with no thermostat whatsoever. The only 2 things I can think of now are that maybe the AC compressor is putting so much drag on the engine that it heats way up. The other is maybe a head gasket issue at this point? The oil always looks okay though and while I know that the coolant is always a bit dirty after draining it isn't ever oily. Lastly, I have always had the fans hooked up to my FAST EZ-EFI computer system and so I know there isn't really any fan control other than on or off. They seem to move quite a bit of air however but seeing as I still have an issue I wonder if its worth trying a separate fan controller.
Kind of at a loss here at this point. I drive this car more often than my other cars nowadays and while it doesn't ever really see any more traffic than my daily commute I would like to be able to take it on a good long road trip and not have to worry about it overheating in i95 stop and go traffic somewhere. Anyone have any advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I've posted a couple times over the last couple years on trying to get my ZZ4 crate motor to run cooler than it does with not a whole lot to show for it. So far I've put in a new heavy duty water pump, new hoses, put in new electric fans out of an F-body Camaro, several 160 degree thermostats, and as of last night a new Summit aluminum radiator with pretty much nothing to show for it. The car seems to like to live right around 180ish with the AC off but when I turn the AC on it jumps up to around 210 just idling. I know that the car has had this issue for quite some time before I've owned it as the previous owner ran it with no thermostat whatsoever. The only 2 things I can think of now are that maybe the AC compressor is putting so much drag on the engine that it heats way up. The other is maybe a head gasket issue at this point? The oil always looks okay though and while I know that the coolant is always a bit dirty after draining it isn't ever oily. Lastly, I have always had the fans hooked up to my FAST EZ-EFI computer system and so I know there isn't really any fan control other than on or off. They seem to move quite a bit of air however but seeing as I still have an issue I wonder if its worth trying a separate fan controller.
Kind of at a loss here at this point. I drive this car more often than my other cars nowadays and while it doesn't ever really see any more traffic than my daily commute I would like to be able to take it on a good long road trip and not have to worry about it overheating in i95 stop and go traffic somewhere. Anyone have any advice?
To small of a thermostat increase to 192 degrees minimum 180. make sure radiator is min.3 row core also. 4 row being best. and think of a thermostat as a on/off switch by closing it allows the coolant to cool in the radiator as you drive down the road and opens when the block is hot enough to get cooled off coolant to repeat the cycle. if you have to small a temp. that remains open or no thermostat then there is nothing to stop the coolant from cooling and will always run hot
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,984 Posts
x2 G
depending on the size of the radiator, that makes a big difference too..
but you just cant say 2,3 or 4 row any more, tube sizes are up to 2+ inches now days,
that means a 1 row can be better than a 4row, depending on quality, size/volume, fins ...
.
looked thru the other threads, and no mention of the recycle/bypass,
those newer blocks all ways work better with it, usually it a big swing in temp..

what about a kinked heater hose, plugged-up heater core, or a
mal-functioning heater control valve ??
.
where you at Squag
you can't just take a vacation in the middle of a thread.. :D :p
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,135 Posts
Thats what my stock Spectra radiator is, one large row ,and works fantastically. I really had my doubts when i saw it the first time but sure a believer now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
x2 G
depending on the size of the radiator, that makes a big difference too..
but you just cant say 2,3 or 4 row any more, tube sizes are up to 2+ inches now days,
that means a 1 row can be better than a 4row, depending on quality, size/volume, fins ...
.
looked thru the other threads, and no mention of the recycle/bypass,
those newer blocks all ways work better with it, usually it a big swing in temp..

what about a kinked heater hose, plugged-up heater core, or a
mal-functioning heater control valve ??
.
where you at Squag
you can't just take a vacation in the middle of a thread.. :D :p
I can and I will!
Its a 3 row radiator, specifically this one:
Not sure about the heater control valve as I haven't driven the car in the last couple weeks. I currently have part of the wiring harness disassembled because I can't leave well enough alone so the car isn't operational. I did notice the other night though that there appears to be some coolant leaking out of the cap (which came with the radiator) so I'll have to swap out the cap with the old one before driving again.
As far as heater hoses go, they look fine to me and the heater itself flows water so I don't think its clogged.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,984 Posts
I assumed the new radiator was bigger..
seeing the radiator specs I thought it would do a little better,
but it kinda depends on the fans and air flow
factory rad is 3row-1/2" tube,, with a big fan and HD clutch, and 195* t-stat for stock SBC..
so the 5/8 tube is slightly better, being aluminum is better..
but asking it to run at 160* is too much for it with electric fans,
[which are only designed to keep it below 230*, when GM turns #2 fan on.. ]
its much-much less work to cool it to 200* than ~170* with 100* air..
.
put a Stant brand 195* T-stat in there, and see what happens..
like this STANT
and a cap STANT
.
then work on the fan-on temp, and AC fan-on setup..
.
is the AC condenser clean??
if yall got skeeters/ luv-bugs like we got bugs,,
a screen door screen behind the grill to the bottom of the core support
helps keeps the wash it out intervals down on a dailydriver..
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top