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Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a bare block from a friend of mine for $100. :banana: It was matching numbers to his 69 Corevette Stringray.
The PO of the vet was hobby engine builder with full access to a shop. He sold the vet, along with the matching block, to my friend. The vet has since been totaled. So I was sold the spare matching block. The block has all the machine work done, bored over .03, cam bearings installed, decked, etc, but it'll all be double checked.
One thing that concerns me was some rust on the rear main where the inhibitor was wiped away, it cause a little pitting. But I'm going to send it to a machine shop this month to have it looked over.

Anyways.

I've been kicking around the idea of a 383 for a long time. It's intriguing due to it's low cost and high torque. I figure now is a better time than any to do my first build.

Since I'm new to engine building, I was more or less going to copy a proven build part for part.

I would like to see it in my 68 by March.

I've purchased some books on engine building to help guide me & teach me along the way. But I'll also be relying on web articles and of course, your advice.

My biggest "must have" is reliability. This is a street car and wont be seeing any strips.

I'll post my parts list soon and I'd really appreciate if anyone with building experience could review it and chime in.

I'm looking forward to sharing this build.

Thanks for reading!!!
 

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Hey Matteo,


I'll offer some suggestions, not as an expert, but as someone who's been where you're going as an amateur building a stroker. My build was a 521 stroker from a Lincoln 460 but the challenges are the same.


Good idea to get the block checked out by a pro. Best if the pro routinely builds Chevy strokers. Buy your parts from the shop that checks your block and use a set of parts he routinely uses. Talk to the pro about how you'll use the engine and he'll help you with things like compression ratio, cam, heads, valve-to-head clearance, valve springs, clearancing the block for the stroker crank if necessary, intake manifold and carb. Get a book with step-by-step assembly instructions such as https://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Your-Small-Block-Chevy/dp/1557880298 I used that one for a 350 rebuild and liked it. Takes you thru each step with torque specs, etc.


Good luck with the build. It'll be fun.


Jim
 

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I agree with Jim on this one. A 383 stroker is Not a novice build! There is a lot of block clearancing and valve to piston clearance issues. As well as checking and Double checking everything during assembly. I have been doing this for a Lot of Decades and I still am No expert here, but I do know what it takes to build one of these correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for your replies.

I've already purchased that book and can't wait for it's arrival.

I'm definitely having the block checked out by an experienced builder. I want it magnafluxed and cleaned anyways.

Besides clearances, why would a 383 be "not a novice build" vs a 350? Clearance issues at the crank and head seem to be the only things that set them apart.

This is a no rush job. Will be double, if not triple checking everything. More reason to post everything I do on the forum, so experienced people can chime in.

Having a strong background in machining, CAD, high tolerance fab work helps. I have plenty of tenths measuring tooling. I'm also building this with my friend how is a machinist and has done a fair amount on internal engine work. so two sets of easy will be on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
This is the build more or less, let me know what you think:


-69 350, 4 bolt, bored .03 over
-Scat or Eagle bottom end kit, 5.7 rods, fully internally balanced, Hypereutectic pistons
-Dart aluminum SHP 64cc heads
-Felpro 4.1 .015 head gaskets
-1.6 stamped Crane rocker arms
-Hydraulic Roller Tappet 219/227 @ .50 .515/.530 112LSA
-Dual Plane intake
-ARP everything


I'm essentially coping this: https://www.high-performance-engines.com/chevy-383-stroker-base-engine-415hp-p/hp94.htm

What I'm looking for is lot's of torque, reliability/driveability, the lower the octane, the better. I'm not a redliner. This is purely street and low/mid RPMS


Opinions?


Again, I don't know much on pairing parts. Thus why I'm coping a proven build. I'm hoping the building process will teach me.
 

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You have to clearance the block for the extra rod throw in the bottom of the block at the cylinder sleeves.
You MUST also check piston to valve clearance. It is Very possible on a 383 that the rod bolt as well as a small part of the rod may contact the bottom of the piston bores. And the pistons have a tendency to go Slightly further up beyond normal TDC so that valve contact is Very possible.
 

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That cam has a short intake duration
It might be a bit sensitive to octane requirments and timing

I’d run about ten degrees more myself just to help bleed off some of the pressure and make it a bit easier
 

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Also plan to measure push rod lengths. The aftermarket heads, rockers, lifters and head gasket might require lengths different than stock. You can probably find videos on youtube explaining tools and process.



It would be good to have your machine shop balance the bottom end. I neglected that step on a 347 Ford and had a slight vibration. Later I read somewhere that it's important to balance stroker rotating assemblies.



Since you're not planning on high RPMs, a cast crank should be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thank you for the replies!
I'm going to answer everyone in one message.



Gale,

I assume 97 was a typo? Do you mean 87?
Is there a reason I should need/want a higher octane rating engine? I figure for the street lower compression would be better cost wise..



D.R,

I'm reading a lot on clearing away some of the block. I plan on a min .05. Using a die grinder to grind the block & radius the edges.

I was planning on doing the clay method for checking the piston/valve clearance. One thing that bothers me about web research is that every article I read tells to check clearances, but never gives any tolerances! I can't find tolerances/specs anywhere. I'm hoping the books I ordered with clear that up..



Steve,

I just tried to find a cam on summit that was as close to the cam that engine I linked showed. Do you mind linking me to a cam that you think would be a better choice?

I know it seems silly that I'm building an engine without knowing how to pick out a cam, but I'm a hands on learner.



Jim,

Thanks for the suggestion.

So the bottom end kit I'm considering purchasing states that it's internally balanced, doesn't that mean it's pre-balanced, and I don't have to get it balanced at a shop? Or is that a separate thing?

It'll see high RPMs when passing but I don't plan on holding high RPMs. Is cast still okay?
 

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Matteo, Yes typo meant 87 octane.
Currently we can only go to 91 in California on pump gas.
That may drop in a couple of years.
You may be able to go to a similar head with larger the 64 chambers and reduce the compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Matteo
Balancing the rotating assy is different than internal vs. external balancing.

Here is a link discussing internally and externally balanced:
What’s the difference between internal and external engine balance?

https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4878/~/what’s-the-difference-between-internal-and-external-engine-balance?
ohhhhhh I see... I assumed an "internally balanced" assembly was balanced from the factory.

Regardless I was going to purchase one of eagles pre-balanced assemblies. This one is on my radar https://www.cnc-motorsports.com/b13454e-eagle-sb-chevy-383-stroker-balanced-rotating-assembly-98-1-speed-pro-dish-pistons.html
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the link. I’ll look into that.

I’m going to try to call a local builder today to to schedule having the block checked out.

I also wanted to mention a AGE m22z and 3.08s would be running behind this motor. I’m going to build a stout heavy 10 when I find one, so rear gears could be changed.

I’m also topping the motor off with my quadrajet 4mv.
 

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