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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking to upgrade my 350 sbc to a 383 stroker any suggestions? Not a big budget but i know there is a lot of good stuff for the $, I'm lookin to spend around $850 but I will set my cap at $1000, something with a mild cam nothin to aggressive but still want it to move when I need it. I have a th350 on it now but i have a th400 what would go better wit my end result, th400 has a shift kit in it. And also lookin for posi 342. Thanks in advance.
 

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Master Wrench
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Well..... Depends on a lot of things.... If you want to get a cheap rotating kit I think last time I checked the cheapest was just a tad under $700... Thats only the bottom end, then you would need heads, a cam, intake, carb and all the other misc. Things needed. Also labor if someone else is going to do it

Stock heads, reworked, or aluminum heads? That's also the biggest thing to consider, heads are where the power is made. I'd save up some more money and do it once the right way. If I could build a 383 with aluminum heads for under $1000 I woulda done it a long time ago hahaha

Engine parts are one thing I wouldn't be cheap about, nothing worse than having to fix it a second time.
 

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$1000? Good luck lol. The crank itself will prolly run ya $250-$300 unless its used. Then you gotta take the block to a machine shop to have it clearanced for the bigger crank. I have no idea what thatll cost. A different rear end is $400 new. You can get a used TH400 for next to nothin, prolly $100-$200. Then the cam vaires and make sure you dont go too big or else youll have to get a new torque converter and valve springs
 

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Don't waste the time. You can build plenty of power with your 350. 383s are not a cheap process. Not worth it just to say "its got a stroker".
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good to know thanks, I was thinkin about buying a kit that came with everything heads n all, I will b doing the work my self with some help from my uncel when i need an extra hand. Is there a kit like this that someone could recommend.
 

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Master Wrench
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As far as I know there's no complete 383 kit with lower and upper end parts. Look on summitracing, there are top end kits from edelbrock and a lot of other companies that come with heads, cam, timing chain, all that stuff but they run around $1500
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Glad I asked first this is all good info.
 

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My 2cents.

Well, here is a quest back to you Joey, what is your goal? what do you want out of it? Like Chris said this is an expensive jump to say "Its got a stroker", unless you say "Its a 327 stroker" LOL :smileyb: drivability, streetability, track, drag? top end? low end? 355 vs 383?, (I hope I didn't just start a fire with that last comment) they are both bored .30 over. But a 355 wont need the bottom redone, so it will save you what 1hr labor at the local shop? :dontknow: and just like the good points JP brought up. Once you put in the 383, your going to be hot on the pedal (admit it, every one would) how long will your drive train hold up, from the torque converter back. :poke:

so start with your goal (do you have one) and work backwards with a "Wants vs. Feasible"

I WANT the 572 crate motor, but a 383 is more feasible for me.

either or, before you buy anything, 355 OR 383, your looking at 3k. and the reason i say 3k, because if you are going to the means of doing all this work, make sure you get DECENT kits like the ones from summit, so you don't have to redo it in 2-3 years because you went cheapo on the crank or something so retarted you will want to kick your self in the arse:let_it_all_out:.
 

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X2 on Lix's comments...Determine your end goal before you start... :dontknow:

Because the engine "upgrade" is just the beginning...

I installed a new GM ZZ383 crate motor but to make it all work I then added...
* Rebuilt 700R4 transmission
* Rebuilt Buick Gran National 3:73 Posi
* New radiator, oil cooler, headers, exhaust system, drive shaft, springs, air lifts, control arms, tires, wheels, and on and on.....

Point is it's a slippery (and expensive) slope once you start down it...

Was it worth it?

Absolutely....

In my youth I had a couple of Corvettes, a GTO, and a Hurst 442 and this Elky beats them all hands down...

And I never see another Elky like mine coming down the street!

It's a small block Elky with a Big Block attitude !!

Arnie in Iowa
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
U all make a good point on the stroker part, like I said b4 I'm glad I came to u guys first. I think ill just end up boring it out .30 get bigger heads, cam, roller rockers , port n polish ect. So same ? Different topic. I already have some goodies on her like edlebrock air gap intake performer series edlbrock carburetor on my chevy bow tie dress up kits double roller timing chain MSD distributor. So now I guess I'm asking about is a new cam and a good set of head so on and so forth.
 

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You might try an Edelbrock top end kit. They're matched so it really takes the guesswork out. I know you said you already had a manifold, maybe you could flip the new/old one for some extra cash for something else for your car. :beer:
 

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I think ill just end up boring it out .30 get bigger heads, cam, roller rockers , port n polish ect.
So your going with a 355, and working towards more power vs torque
The heads are were its at, so if you want to keep your manifold, do your home work to make sure its a good match.

or x2 on the top end kit.
you jusy might have to buy a new plate for your crab.

and a word to the wise, there is a SPECIFIC way to bolt on and off heads, not many (new to motors) know this. would hate for you to spend a Grand and them warp. :nanawrench:



Almost spit out my Dr. Pepper. :beer:
HAHA Thought someone would catch on to that :poke:
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just talk to my local machine shop he told me 182 to bore my block 30 over then I ask them about the heads I have cuz they don't have any excessory holes and he told me that they were pre.67 and to redo they to todays fuel standers it would cost 6 or 700, then he told me he had a set of Sr torquer head that were alread seat up for roller rockers n with the roller rockers installed and head to match my block he said it would be about 8 or $900 for the heads, yay or nay
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Sorry about some of the spelling errors I'm doin this from my cell. Lix I do know that u have to bolt heads on a specific way and thanks. Yes i am lookin for power vs torque n I think I will run the th400 wit the shift kit, should I get a bigger drive shaft then too? N I would really like to find a posi id steal the 1 out of my bros. 85 grand prix but I don't think he like that very much.
 

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S/R Torquers are pretty decent heads. And running that TH400 will cost you, because I'm pretty sure it takes more power to run. :dontknow:
 

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^^^^x2

Tim
 

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do you NEED a new drive shaft, depend on the length of the transmission extension from your TH350 to TH400. If it is within an inch i would say no. Sure the YOKE is long and has room for play, but would you want 4 of the 6 inches hanging out with 400HP twisting it? I think not.

but if you want to upgrade to a nice aluminum 3.5 inch D, your going to have to shop very hared to find one under 300 bux.:wow:

Another thing, measure the distance from the from of the bell housing to the tranny mount, if i remember right there is a 6 inches of difference. which means you will need a different cross member I had to change mine out, for your sake i hope im wrong:dontknow:
 

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Folks, I don't mean to be a wet blanket but there is a bit of eronious stuff floating here. An engine does not make horsepower, it makes torque. Horespower is a way to express torque compared to time as in the following calculators.
http://www.calculatoredge.com/new/horsepower.htm#hp
As you can see there are two ways to effect horsepower, either by changing torque or by changing RPMs. So to develope the same horsepower from a 383 and a 355 it's obvious you will have to spin the 355 harder. So the question becomes which is cheaper and will last longer under severe use, a low rpm torque engine or a buzzsaw of an engine. I maintain it's cheaper to build the torque engine and it will also live longer.
In order to wind an engine you have to have good valve train components and even then valve spings will weaken with use..Good valves, springs, retainers, and keepers are not cheap.
Both engines will require about the same amount of machine work so thats a wash, the rotating assemblies since the 383 has become so popular are about the same price so thats a wash unless you intend using the parts you currently have and even then they must be reconditioned especially if you intend to be mean to it so either way new or refurbed is close to the same pricewise.
If I am spending my money , it's a no brainer 383 all the way if you are going for performance, and I have been pleasantly surprised with the economy of the several 383's I've built......Dan
 
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