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Discussion Starter #1
Bringing the old 59 back to life. Upgrading from drum brakes to discs and decided, lets replace those old control arms with dry rotted bushings and worn joints. So ordered up a set of the tubular control arms, look great and good price, installed without too much trouble and converted to front disc brakes, looking good and brakes are awesome!!!!

Probably should have read a little more into issues people have had with changing control arms, especially with the inexpensive options available out there which I unfortunately went with. I now have a serious negative camber issue and have 0 shims in the upper (no way to adjust farther out). I really don't recall it being that far out before swapping out the old for the new. I've seen the terms "frame sag" out there but again don't remember it looking so far out of whack before. I see offset control arm shafts available but not from the outfit I ordered the control arms from. Also, the control arms purchased state it will lower my Elk from 1-1.5" however it sits probably 1-1.5" higher than it did before. I feel like these control arms are creating more hassle than they are worth but have time and $$$ invested.

" ^-Team Performance 58-64 Chevrolet Full Size Impala Tubular Control Arms Upper and Lower". Requested assistance with the seller however have not had any response. Email only contact, phone # just sends you back to email questions only.

I still have the originals with worn components, tempted to scrap the new and rebuild the old and consider good money spent on a lesson learned.

Any one out there run into the same issues on 59-60?
Suggestions?
 

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A picture would be nice to see but, any chance they sent you the wrong ones for your x frame? Any chance you have the wrong springs installed? May not be the issue but, worth probing if it helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply, used the original springs, I can't get a reply from sw performance to confirm fitment and or options. Here's some initial progress photos, I'll try to upload more direct photos when can get it back to the garage. Thanks again.
 

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Are the lower ball joints upside down?

Those factory pieces were pretty decent to begin with. I would get a set of Delrin bushings for the stock arms and put the stock set up back in. But this time align it to these specs;
Caster, Positive +2.5 for the passenger side +2 for the drivers side.
Camber, Negative -.25 both sides.
Toe in, 1/16 both sides..
I bet with the Delrin bushings, a nice big Hellwig sway bar and those alignment settings that 59 would cruise the highways with ease..
If your really serious get a Lee 14:1 800 Series steering box set at 20 to 30 pounds, with 30 pounds being like manual but faster and easy to park..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are the lower ball joints upside down?

Those factory pieces were pretty decent to begin with. I would get a set of Delrin bushings for the stock arms and put the stock set up back in. But this time align it to these specs;
Caster, Positive +2.5 for the passenger side +2 for the drivers side.
Camber, Negative -.25 both sides.
Toe in, 1/16 both sides..
I bet with the Delrin bushings, a nice big Hellwig sway bar and those alignment settings that 59 would cruise the highways with ease..
If your really serious get a Lee 14:1 800 Series steering box set at 20 to 30 pounds, with 30 pounds being like manual but faster and easy to park..
Are the lower ball joints upside down?

Those factory pieces were pretty decent to begin with. I would get a set of Delrin bushings for the stock arms and put the stock set up back in. But this time align it to these specs;
Caster, Positive +2.5 for the passenger side +2 for the drivers side.
Camber, Negative -.25 both sides.
Toe in, 1/16 both sides..
I bet with the Delrin bushings, a nice big Hellwig sway bar and those alignment settings that 59 would cruise the highways with ease..
If your really serious get a Lee 14:1 800 Series steering box set at 20 to 30 pounds, with 30 pounds being like manual but faster and easy to park..
[/QUOTE
Are the lower ball joints upside down?

Those factory pieces were pretty decent to begin with. I would get a set of Delrin bushings for the stock arms and put the stock set up back in. But this time align it to these specs;
Caster, Positive +2.5 for the passenger side +2 for the drivers side.
Camber, Negative -.25 both sides.
Toe in, 1/16 both sides..
I bet with the Delrin bushings, a nice big Hellwig sway bar and those alignment settings that 59 would cruise the highways with ease..
If your really serious get a Lee 14:1 800 Series steering box set at 20 to 30 pounds, with 30 pounds being like manual but faster and easy to park..
Are the lower ball joints upside down?

Those factory pieces were pretty decent to begin with. I would get a set of Delrin bushings for the stock arms and put the stock set up back in. But this time align it to these specs;
Caster, Positive +2.5 for the passenger side +2 for the drivers side.
Camber, Negative -.25 both sides.
Toe in, 1/16 both sides..
I bet with the Delrin bushings, a nice big Hellwig sway bar and those alignment settings that 59 would cruise the highways with ease..
If your really serious get a Lee 14:1 800 Series steering box set at 20 to 30 pounds, with 30 pounds being like manual but faster and easy to park..
Ball joints look correct, spindle attaches from bottom on upper and lower ball.
More photos.
Yes, was seriously considering a quick ratio box also. These are produced for manual steering as well as power?
I paused purchasing more products till I figure out the -camber problem. Planned an all new ends, sway bar, idler, pitman and steering box.
Still no response from sw performance...
Thank you for the alignment specs. I feel if I take this to the alignment shop they will tell me they can't gain any more + camber with the current geometry. Again leaning toward scrapping the tubular and going back to the "OG" equipment.
 

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welcome Wombat

have you measured from pivot point to ball joint center on the new and old stuff ??

it looks to be sitting on the upper bump stop too..
the lower control arms are not level, looks like the motor is out..

if it was lower in the front, like it looks like it should be,, the camber would be better..
maybe the old springs are too tall for the new parts..
 

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Wombat, looking at the photo # 20200401 showing the car setting on the ground. I can see that the spring has quite a bit of bend to it and the shock does not fit evenly down the center. This indicates to me that the lowers are bigger than you need or perhaps the springs are incorrect.

either way I have to agree with Pitts. I replaced my factory bushings with rubber not urethane and then installed a 1 1/8th inch Helwig sway bar. the ride and
 

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Discussion Starter #8
welcome Wombat

have you measured from pivot point to ball joint center on the new and old stuff ??

it looks to be sitting on the upper bump stop too..
the lower control arms are not level, looks like the motor is out..

if it was lower in the front, like it looks like it should be,, the camber would be better..
maybe the old springs are too tall for the new parts..
Ill take a measurement and see what differences there is, good call JJLT1...

Right,,,, the bump stop would be for full extension of the control arm (like if the vehicle were supported by jack stands with no weight on the wheels) yet its real close if not contacting already. There should be considerable spacing between I would think. Ill take a closer look.

Considered cutting a coil as a last resort to bring it down in the front and thinking it would give a little more camber also.

Crazy thought, I was thinking about today at work, these uppers were not labeled Left or Right. I installed based on the level of the ball joints matching the lowers. I feel IF they were mounted backwards the rake of the arm would be way off, upper and lower ball joints would not be level with each other and bump stop would not be lining up with frame among other problems. If I had them reversed do you feel I would be having this issue? I need to rule that factor out.
The lowers can mount only one way...

Thanks for the input JJLT1
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Wombat, looking at the photo # 20200401 showing the car setting on the ground. I can see that the spring has quite a bit of bend to it and the shock does not fit evenly down the center. This indicates to me that the lowers are bigger than you need or perhaps the springs are incorrect.

either way I have to agree with Pitts. I replaced my factory bushings with rubber not urethane and then installed a 1 1/8th inch Helwig sway bar. the ride and
Ya got a good eye there Mr Fin... With the original equipment it had a significant arc to the springs also, however I feel not as much as they do now with the tubular upgrade. The shocks were difficult to install, more so on the driver side as the photo shows. Driver side took some manipulation with a pry bar against the coil to get the holes to line up which means they are riding against each other.

Im thinking of cutting a coil as a last resort but dont want to hack em if I go back to the original parts with new rubber... Once I get the camber issue resolved I will take yours and PITTS64 advise to upgrade to a nice sway bar and quick ratio box. Sounds like a dream!!

I have some time tomorrow to bring the beast back around, take some measurements, perhaps a few more photos to upload and ponder my next move.

Thank you for your insight..
 

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(y)
as for the left or right side, that affects castor more I think
but it would throw everything out-of-wack
if the lower ball joints are front of center on the pivot shaft,,
then the upper should be too..
the castor is measured in degrees usually 0* to 5*.. so not much,
so it should basicly look strait vertically ..
 

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Wombat. Measure the ride height as well. the bushings should be tightened down after everything is installed. If the springs are shot or you tightened down the lowers too high it will affect the camber.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Still pondering my next move. Have still yet to measure pivot points to ball joints too see if there any differences in length. I really should have measured before I installed.

The outfit I purchased the parts from finally responded. They claim they have never had any of these issues, confirmed I have the correct parts and confirmed assembly with factory spindles and coils so I'm second guessing the way I have assembled. There were no instructions with the product however they pretty much go one one way only. Only error I saw, now that they sent the instructions was I needed to rotate the upper shafts. This gave me some needed clearance from the shock tower and steering shaft however did not change the centerline of the shafts (not offset).

The arc on the springs, positioning of the shocks, bump stops preventing further extension and upper ball joints extended outward. I feel it all points to needing shorter springs to bring it in line as long as the length measurements are in check.. Ill upload some more photos soon.

Still workin it out!! I refuse to accept defeat yet, anyways. Hopefully I can figure out the solution and again worse case Ill clean up and rebuild the old ones. Clearly the manufacturer/seller of the control arms is taking no responsibility however, they have been responsive to my concerns and questions recently yet have offered no solutions..

Thank you everyone for your input.. I do appreciate your advice..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The coils look as if they aren't seated well in the lower pocket. I may try moving them around a little although I feel it's not all the issues I'm having.
Thanks again everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
x2 that too..
just lookin at the before and after ride height,
i'd probly start with 2"-3" in shorter springs at least..

how tight are the springs now??
can you bounce the front end any??
I got about 230 on me and it takes quite a bit all of it to flex it but it does move... I wonder how much further it would go without the bumpstops. Would it max all the way out and touch underside of upper control arm to frame? It just seems waaaaaaay too tight..

Cut or collapse a coil or two??? Perhaps after doing some more measuring as last resort.💥🔥🔥🔥
 

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I noticed that the paperwork photo you included says 58-64 FULLSIZE Chevy. You say they verified that they are the correct parts?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I noticed that the paperwork photo you included says 58-64 FULLSIZE Chevy. You say they verified that they are the correct parts?
So they say...
I always thought 59-60 were all their own... Everything bolted on easy enough with the exception of the shocks.
 
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