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I noticed that the paperwork photo you included says 58-64 FULLSIZE Chevy. You say they verified that they are the correct parts?
So they say...
I always thought 59-60 were all their own... Everything bolted on easy enough with the exception of the shocks.
here's a thought, have you checked the catalogs of other parts companies? if all of them say that 59-60 are completely different, then yeah, I would say that SWPP is feeding you a line. either they invented a 'universal' part no one else has or they're ignorant. sure wish Keyser was online, he seemed to know all those swap-compatibility parts

1810 W Northern Ave #A5-105 Phoenix, Arizona 85021
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Coil looks a little crooked in the lower pocket like it's not seated all the way.

Measurements look comparable to factory (pivot points to ball joint).

Think I'm down with pulling the spring and cutting a coil.

The spring pockets don't appear to be the same angle/depth. Optical illusion perhaps?
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I restored a 64 a few years ago and when I put in the new springs I had ordered I had the same situation you have.
WRONG springs. Way too long. I ordered another set and actually got the right ones.
It looks like in the pictures yours are so long they have the suspension completely pushed against the stops.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I restored a 64 a few years ago and when I put in the new springs I had ordered I had the same situation you have.
WRONG springs. Way too long. I ordered another set and actually got the right ones.
It looks like in the pictures yours are so long they have the suspension completely pushed against the stops.
That's just it though, they claim use factory spindles and springs and it will lower 1-1.5". Man it went up not down.
I just pulled the drivers side apart, chopped a coil and collapsed 1/2 to flatten out spring end. Once I set it on the ground I'll uplosd some photos. Hope it brings the camber into an adjustable place and it's not sitting in the weeds... :eek:
I know this much so far, there is a hell of a lot less arc in the spring and the shock went in nice and easy, unlike before I needed the wonder bar for convincing..
Hit ya back soon. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok!! Looking much better!!! That was the trick.. Cut one coil from the top and before installing the spring laid a little heat on half a coil to flatten it out. Sits well on that side now with full suspension travel. Hopefully will align, sure looks a lot straighter.
Check it..
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wtg W
Getting closer..

I been cutting them springs for a while with saw [less heat],,
not sure if you can really duplicate the heating/cooling process
to get like for like results,, seen other people try it,,
sometimes it works, sometimes its too much or too little..
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Ill finish up the passenger side perhaps this weekend. Figuring the front bumper weight will bring it down just a little more (maybe .25-.50 in) in the front and it will be perfect. Cutting one coil and and flattening cut portion (collapse half coil) with spring compressed lowered it by 1" (maybe more since the bumpstops were preventing the suspension from extending more). I thought to myself, I may have to purchase springs anyway, lets modify whats there and see if it works, so far so good..The coil, upper ball joint angle and shock doesn't look so angry anymore!!I

Thank you all for your insights, it really helped direct me to the resolution I ultimately went with. That negative camber issue looks like its been licked for now!!!!

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Discussion Starter #28
Cut a coil and collapsed 1/2. Sets just right, full suspension travel and negative camber problem gone!!
I can't say I recommend these control arms however, with a little modification they actually look great and now work well. Not bad for $300 bucks. How long the bushings and ball joints last is yet to be seen though.
Will now be looking into replacing remainder steering gear. Swaybar, rod ends with new sleeves, pitman and idler. Once I pick up and install the remainder parts we'll go to the alignment shop. Will let you all know.
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Thank you all for your input..
Wombat out for now..
 

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wombat. I wonder if you clocked your springs when you installed them. There should be a pocket in both arms. the spring needs to be rotated until the end sits in that pocket. I do not see that in the new arms but I see the red bushing instead. That might be something to consult the instructions or supplier on. Do it need to be there? Does it have a specific way it gets installed? FYI, the 58 to 64 Full sized Chevys all use the X frame and the suspensions are alike if not exactly the same.
 

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I have to agree that you need to do some measuring. The way those springs are bent cannot be right, and a crowbar to install shocks is (to me, anyway) a serious red flag. I wouldn't mind seeing the results of the measurement, if you have time to measure and post. I don't think cutting springs is a good idea.
Good luck.

Doc
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Unfortunately I no longer have the exact measurements comparing the factory control arms to the aftermarket ones. I can however say that the pivot points of the cross-shafts (outsides and center) to center of the ball joints measured exactly the same. I expected to see the lowers longer or the uppers shorter than originals.

The only other difference that I could possibly consider was the depth of the spring pocket in the lowers. I did not do any measurements there however it was fairly obvious after confirming equal measurements of the control arms and the pockets also appear more shallow on the tubular in comparison the the factory stamped steel. With that in mind, seeing also how as you apply weight to the vehicle suspension (compressing the coils) and see the movement of the camber, it made sense that the factory coils were too tall. I could either order new coils and guess the spring tension and/or height or start by shortening my originals (cut 1 coil from the top and heated 1/2 to collapse the cut end flat).

So far, it appears to be visually and mechanically in check. It relieved that crazy arc in the springs, shocks went in the way they should, coils fit flatter in the lower spring pocket, upper ball joint is no longer hyper extended, I now have the upward travel without butting up against the bump stops and vehicle sits like it should. I do still need to assemble the front bumper (as this will add maybe 100lbs weight) and install new idler, inner/outer tie rods and check drag link wear before the ultimate test of alignment.

Thank you,
 
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