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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone suggest a *heavy gauge* (16 or better) shorty header for an '84 that WON'T interfere with the shift or steering linkages? My last 'long type' hooker purchase was a miserable failure, and I want to replace them. 14 ga. under $300 is preferable.

Thanks. =)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Arnie! And there's no interference issues with shifter and steering linkages?

(I'm trying to keep my column shift, and the hookers I have in now are preventing me from hitting 1st, and 2nd...)
 

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Thanks Arnie! And there's no interference issues with shifter and steering linkages?

(I'm trying to keep my column shift, and the hookers I have in now are preventing me from hitting 1st, and 2nd...)
None on mine.
I am running a 700-R4 (with the floor mounted shifter) so I did have to bend the pipe which attaches to the left header to clear the shifting rod mechanism.

I had no issues with steering linkage.

I am not familiar with the conditions when dealing with a column mounted shifter so I can't speak to that specific issue.

The flange on the left header ends up only about 1/4-3/8 inch from the fire wall but under load it torques away from the firewall so that has not been an issue.

You will have to cobble up a wrench to torque down two or three of the header bolts (if) you are installing the headers on an engine already in the vehicle.

I did use the high quality aftermarket header bolt set with threaded inserts and special nuts. Makes it easier to "hang" the gasket on the inserts then position the header, then install nuts and torque.

And be sure a re-torque all the bolts after you've ran it a few hours.

Oh, and I did insulate the brake lines running near the left header just as a precaution.

Arnie in Iowa
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The factory backdrive rod for floor shift, and column shift is basically the same, so my clearances should be similar to yours.

The proximity of the flange to the firewall is a little scary tho. Really? 3/8"??
 

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. I have the Hooker long tubes and I had to take the right one loose to get to the #6 spark plug. I will be going to something different some time. The right side also hits against the frame and the upper control arm.
 
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