All the threads on this subject basically wish you the best of luck with doing this. I hope this will help. No intention of making it a fix all but at least I can show you where the adjustments are and what they do.
If you have worn hinge pins and/or bad rollers - fix them first!
See picture below for what all this is referring to.
The first step is loosen the upper stops (one at the front and one at the rear) and the two pads with felt on them at the top of the door.
Check how parallel the top of the window is with the top of the weatherstripping. Adjust the tilt until it is parallel. A little bit goes a long way here. Both bolts have to move together.
The main problem everyone seems to have is the in and out of the window at the top. That is because the adjustment for it is accessed upside down and is hidden when normally looking at the door. Loosen the two bolts and gently pull in or out on the top of the window, snug and re-try until you get it where you want it.
Now you can adjust the front to back.
During all of this remember you have the stops loose so you are in control of where the window stops on the way up.
When you have the window sitting against the weatherstrip as even as possible slide the front stop up and snug it down to where the window will stop there everytime.
The rear stop also adjusts in and out (white nylon V shaped bolted to rear lower glass)as well as up and down. Loosen the in and out bolt (also upside down) and adjust the rear stop up to where you want it and then adjust the in and out so the plate centers in the guide (this will make sense when you look at it).
Now slide the two upper plates with the felt on them out against the glass (not to hard) and snug them down. when you get the rear stop and the upper felt plates adjusted correctly the window should have very little play in it when it is all the way up.
The in and out adjustment on the rear stop is what keeps the window from pushing out away from the weatherstrip at highway speed.
Removal and Installation 1. Remove door trim panel, sound absorber and water deflector. 2. Raise window to full-up position and tape glass to door frame using cloth-backed body tape.
3. Remove bolts holding lower sash channel to regulator sash.
4. On coupe doors, remove rubber down stop at bottom of door by pulling carefully (Fig. 5-82).
5. Attach regulator handle and run regulator to full-down position. Remove regulator sash by rotating 90 degrees and pulling outboard.
6. While supporting glass, remove tape and lower glass to full-down position. Disengage front edge of glass from front glass run channel retainer. Slide glass forward and tilt slightly to remove guide from retainer in run channel (rear leg of door frame).
7. Using care, raise glass while tilting forward and remove glass from door.
8. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use liquid soap solution on rubber down stop before installing to bottom of door. Install guide retainer as follows:
a. Install glass and lower about halfway.
b. With one hand on bottom edge, rotate glass rearward to snap guide into retainer. Before installing trim parts, check window operation for proper alignment.
FRONT DOOR WINDOW ASSEMBLY. E AND G COUPE STYLES
The front door window assembly consists of a solid tempered safety plate glass with bolt-on and riveted components. On G styles, the lower sash channel cam, which is bolted to the glass, is removed during the window removal process. The stabilizer guide is riveted. On E styles, the door glass is attached to the lower sash channel cam with rivets. The front and rear up stops are also rivet attached. Figures 5-83 and 5-87 identify the window components and their assembly sequence. Specified installation torque for bolt-on parts is 8 Nom (72 in-lb). When replacing G coupe glass, new glass bushings and washers are required (7 and 8, Fig. 5-83). For service, rivet installation requires available hand rivet tool no. J-29022 or equivalent and the following rivet hardware parts. The rivet bushing is held firmly to the glass by the rivet retainer. After glass removal, the bushing can be separated from the retainer using a flat-bladed tool covered with cloth body tape.
NOTICE: Rivet bushings and rivet retainers must not be used when installing stabilizer guide with
bolt-on hardware as this will cause glass brea when tightening spanner nut and bolt.
Ifhand rivet tool no. J -29022 or equivalent is not available, the parts must be bolted to the glass. Fig
5-84 and 5-88 identify the window components their assembly sequence for a bolt-on installation. type installation requires tool no. J-22055 or equiv,
Adjustments. G Coupe
In the following steps, the numbers in parentheses refer to items in Figure 5-89 unless otherwise noted. Door armrest cover, upper and lower trim panels must be removed and insulator pad (if so equipped) and water deflector detached before making adjustments. After making adjustments, tighten all loosened attachments to 10 to 14 Nom (90 to 125 in-Ib) torque.
1. Window Rotated - Loosen up-stops (2 and 3) adjust inner panel cam (8) as required and tighten attaching screws. Adjust up-stops as required and tighten attaching screws.
2. Window Upper Edge Inboard or
Outboard - With the window partially down, loosen the following attachments.
a. Vertical guide upper support (lower) screws
(27, Fig. 5-64, accessible through inner
panel access holes).
b. Pin assembly screws (12).
c. Rear up-stop screw (10).
d. Front belt stabilizer screw (1).
Adjust vertical guide upper support (28, Fig. 5-64) and pin assembly (15, Fig. 5-64) in or out as required and tighten attaching screws. Adjust and tighten other loosened components. Make sure glass remains inboard of blow-out clip when cycled.
3. Window Too Far Forward or Rearward
With the window partially down, loosen vertical guide upper and lower screws (4) and adjust as required.
4. Window Too High or Low in Up Position - Adjust front and rear up-travel stops (2 and 3) as required.
5. Window Too High or Low in Down Position - Adjust down-travel stop (11) as required.
6. Window Binds - Ease of window operation and stability depend to a great extent on the front belt stabilizer (10, Fig. 5-64) and rear belt stabilizer pin assembly (15, Fig. 5-64). Contact should be enough to stabilize glass but not restrict window operation.
Remove door armrest cover, upper and lower door trim panels, insulator pad (if so equipped) and inner panel water deflector.
With glass in half-raised position, mark location of attaching screws and remove the following components.
a. Front belt stabilizer and trim retainer (1) b. Rear belt stabilizer pin assembly (12)
c. Front up-travel stop - on inner panel (2)
d. Rear up-stop assembly - on glass (9)
Remove vertical guide upper and lower attaching screws (4) disengage guide assembly from roller and lay guide in bottom of door.
Position glass to expose lower sash channel carn attaching nuts through inner panel access holes (7), then remove nuts.
While holding glass securely, separate glass from lower sash channel cam.
Carefully remove glass as follows.
a. Raise glass slowly and slide rearward.
b. Tilt top of glass inboard until front up-stop
roller on glass clears front loading hole at inner panel belt reinforcement.
c. Rotate glass 45 degrees rearward, then raise slowly to clear glass attaching screws through belt loading holes.
To install, proceed as follows.
a. Load rear vertical edge of glass at a 45
degree angle to clear glass attaching screws,
then rotate to horizontal position.
b. Tilt top of glass inboard, slide rearward, then lower glass to clear up-stop roller through front loading hole at belt reinforcement.
c. Lower glass and align screw attachments in
holes on lower sash channel cam.
Adjust window for proper alignment and operation. Make sure glass remains inboard of blow-out clip when cycled.
Tighten all hardware attachments to 10 to 14 Nom (90 to 125 in-Ib) torque. Reinstall all previously removed trim components.
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My 72 has a rectangular, remote control, LH door mirror. I've been looking all over the net for a matching RH door mirror. I've searched for El Camino, Chevelle, and Impala. But I'm not sure exactly what years this mirror was offered.
The only thing I've found is at Year One and they want $139...
Most of the El Camino paint color chips from the GM Truck Data Books have been scanned and can be found here:
http://www.elcaminocentral.com/gallery.php?g2_itemId=78101
I'm currently missing 64, 68 and 72. But, I'll keep looking.
So I decided not to spend the $350 (cost that much to do my 2000 crew cab long bed superduty) to have it rhino lined. I figured, why not spend the $99 at PepBoys, and just roll it on.
Step 1
Wash n then Mask
Step 2
Sand, Wash again, then Acetone bed for a clean adheshion
Step 3
Apply coat...
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