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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
If anyone takes their 5th gen for a drive today and the outside temps are in the 80's or higher, can you make a note of your average temp reading with A/C on? I'm troubleshooting mine and the aftermarket temp gauge is off a bit, so I'm measuring the upper radiator hose with an infrared thermometer (harbor freight). After spraying the radiator clean and replacing the fan clutch and radiator cap, I've got the coolant temp down from 230+ to around 200, after a 10 mile drive with 3 minutes of idling at the end, 87 ambient temp. Wondering if it should be lower than 200, as my late model Honda only runs around 175.
 

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You should be running about 10 degrees hotter than the thermostat in your vehicle once fully warmed up, which if stock was a 195 (IIRC). Sounds like with your new radiator cap, you've got it down to 200, which should be about normal.
 

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temp reading

If anyone takes their 5th gen for a drive today and the outside temps are in the 80's or higher, can you make a note of your average temp reading with A/C on? I'm troubleshooting mine and the aftermarket temp gauge is off a bit, so I'm measuring the upper radiator hose with an infrared thermometer (harbor freight). After spraying the radiator clean and replacing the fan clutch and radiator cap, I've got the coolant temp down from 230+ to around 200, after a 10 mile drive with 3 minutes of idling at the end, 87 ambient temp. Wondering if it should be lower than 200, as my late model Honda only runs around 175.
with outside temp about 90-94 degrees, running about 200 in town or on the road. 72000 miles and no reason to believe it isn't original thermostat and reading from factory gauges. double check that tomorrow I'll be out and about.
Bill
 

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Just south of you, it depends on road. But 173 on interstates and moving on side roads, but at lights and AC on it climbs about 10* each light. If I turn off the AC, it's less.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everyone for posting, helpful information. While measuring the temp with the infrared gun says around 200, my temp gauge says 220. Is pointing the gun at the upper hose near the radiator a good indication of temp? Top of radiator itself is more like 210.

I took it for another drive during the cooler part of the day (78) and it reached only 190. But the A/C lines iced up (working on that too). Is the system supposed to cycle on the low pressure switch, or is that switch only to cut power to the compressor when freon is low?
 

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Is it a small block Chevy V8? If so, it should run cooler, around 180-190.
Gen 5's, with the increase in emissions, came with a 195 thermostat, so designed to run hot ( 200+). Part of this is for emissions, part is to boil off any water(condensation) that should get into the oil to prevent acid being created in the oil (Due to a sealed crankcase- not open to the atmosphere like older cars).
F-body cars, with electric fans, didn't even turn the fans on until 232+! Running too cool allows the condensation to build in the crankcase, and the resulting moisture converts residual chemicals to acid. Not good for the bearings.

While I don't like running that hot, all of my new cars do, and I've come to terms with the Elky running 200-220 ( with OAT of 110+ sometimes).
 

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But the A/C lines iced up (working on that too). Is the system supposed to cycle on the low pressure switch, or is that switch only to cut power to the compressor when freon is low?
The cycle switch should turn the compressor on / off, but if it's really hot outside, you might not get much cycling. The lines icing up is somewhat normal, and is a sign that you probably have about the right amount of Refrigerant. One reason you see a puddle of water under the car after stopping while running the AC for a long time. Especially prevalent if it's humid outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The cycle switch should turn the compressor on / off, but if it's really hot outside, you might not get much cycling. The lines icing up is somewhat normal, and is a sign that you probably have about the right amount of Refrigerant. One reason you see a puddle of water under the car after stopping while running the AC for a long time. Especially prevalent if it's humid outside.

I tried adjusting the cycling switch (recently replaced, and labeled "turning screw voids warranty") and got lucky - it started cycling and stopped freezing up. It was probably necessary since my system has been converted to R134A, which has different pressures. One turn clockwise worked for me.
 

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I had a lot of trouble with mine running to warm. After trying a number of things I finally went to a dual fan and larger radiator with a thermo switch system and I now run down between 170 and 180 and that is with 100 plus degree outside temps here in Texas.:cool2:
 

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After five hours into a 500 mile trip last week, I noticed my temp gauge in the 240 range. Outdoor temps were in the high 80s, low 90s. Turned off the a/c and took it easy for a while and the gauge easily dropped down to 220. It stayed below 220 today, similar highway driving but outside temp today only in the high 70s.
 

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If anyone takes their 5th gen for a drive today and the outside temps are in the 80's or higher, can you make a note of your average temp reading with A/C on? I'm troubleshooting mine and the aftermarket temp gauge is off a bit, so I'm measuring the upper radiator hose with an infrared thermometer (harbor freight). After spraying the radiator clean and replacing the fan clutch and radiator cap, I've got the coolant temp down from 230+ to around 200, after a 10 mile drive with 3 minutes of idling at the end, 87 ambient temp. Wondering if it should be lower than 200, as my late model Honda only runs around 175.
I have 84 Conquista with stock 305. Mine runs steady at 200, regardless. I also have new rad. and water pump. When AC worked, it would go up about 5 degrees with air on. I know this is late but just though I would throw my 2 cents to you.
 

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I actually lov this topic even though it gets hammered all the time. It's interesting to hear how different age motors run different temps etc etc. I also enjoy the ones that fly in and only say "My BBC with 500 HP runs 180 all day" You'd like to reply back and say "I still have all my wisdom teeth" ?

Shroud or no shroud, electric fans or original clutch... etc etc. I still like the opinions. For us older L's, I'm guessing today's gas causes higher temps than it did way back when. The idea of running 180 all day in Tx makes me feel giddy inside but I just don't think some motors will ever do it. My BBC seems to stay at 180ish in town for the most part but on the Hwy at 65 then the stop and go, she's happy at 210 - 220.
I do however criticize the gauge producers like SW who make a temp gauge that the bars jump from 180 to 240. Isn't that the most critical zone! Why have the bars prior to that show every 10*... my motor will never run at 120* what the heck. Give me the fine detail from 170 on up..... ok, I've beat that before.

Anyway, happy Friday to ya!
 

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The norm with a thermostat reading of 182 degrees would be between 185 and 190 degrees. If you have a 192 thermostat then the readings would be 195 to 199 degrees.
 
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