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Discussion Starter #1
My the contacts in my fuse box was rusted out; I purchased an OEM style harness from wiringharnessdotcom.

Everything looked great except not schmatics, and the schmatics I found online do not have the same color codes.

After I hooked everything up to what looks right by length and connector shape. I only have one dash light on, and the headlights work.

I have yet to ground everything, but would the missing ground prevent me from knowing if everything works?

I really hate to button this up, only to have to tear it apart again, but I do know the grounds haven't been connected yet, so this is my only thought.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks for any and all reply's.

:dontknow:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the bit on the grounds, but I think I'm down to my last problem.... I been working on this car way to long so any additional help would be greatly appreciated.

The reason I bought the harness is because the previous owner said he was having brake light issues. The old harness kept blowing the 15A brake light fuse.

Well got the new harness in, all hooked up and you guessed it; still blowing the brake lamp fuse. All other lamps lights work, just no brake lights because I can't keep a fuse alive in the socket long enough.

Here is what I did so far to trouble shoot this beast:

1. I down loaded and purchased every schmetic I could find to include the factory assembly manual.

2. I disconnected the intermediate harness (from the new dash harness) that goes back to the tail lights and put in a good 15A fuse. As soon as the fuse comes in contact with the new fuse box contacts, it blows.

3. When I checked the brake light fuse area with a multiple meter there is a constant 12VDC at the box. Is this normal?

I'm at my wits end and cannot figure the out for the life of me. Any one with a 64/65 Chevelle or El Camino can make some quick voltage checks at their fuse box, or perhaps had this same issue?

Fraustrated in Illinois
 

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Constant 12V at the fuse does not sound right for the break light circuit. Have you checked the switch on the break pedal itself? Might be shorted. Did the previous owner mess with the wiring? If so it could be that he simply wired up that circuit incorrectly. Is there 12V present even when the car is not running?
 

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Constant 12V at the fuse does not sound right for the break light circuit. Have you checked the switch on the break pedal itself? Might be shorted. Did the previous owner mess with the wiring? If so it could be that he simply wired up that circuit incorrectly. Is there 12V present even when the car is not running?
I mean "brake" not "break"... :oops:
 

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Brake lights should be hot all the time.

If the fuse blows that quick, you have a direct short to ground somewhere between the switch and tail light sockets.

Try disconnecting everything and ohm test to ground to find it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
For the short to ground test:
Since I already eliminated the intermediate harness (by disconnecting it and it still blew fuses) are you saying to focus around the brake light switch for a short?
I believe you guys got me on the right track. I've already ordered a new brake light switch for the hell of it, but I really want to drive this thing.
I'll go under the dash and prob around the brake switch. I'll keep you guys posted...thanks again.
BTW: I've been reading through all the past posts about brake light problems and a lot of folks were mentioning that the turn sig sw could be bad? Could this be blowing fuses though? I really don't want to tear down this steering column.

And guy thanks again, I mean it.
Pat
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update.....

I checked the switch with a MM and it worked. No ground issue at the switch either.

However, when I check the new harness connector to the switch (disconnected), I was getting OHM readings from the Orng wire (prob in orng wire slot, prob grounded to car)but nothing from the white wire. When I selected continuity on the MM, the ORNG wire beepped when I touch the ground anywhere on the car.

Could this be my problem?

Now here is the bad news, my schemetics show there are two wires from the switch, one goes to the turn sig connector.... :let_it_all_out:
or am I even checking this thing correctly????
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Update #2.....

Okay I check for shorts on the turn sig harness and got nothing.....

I went back to the new harness and I'm getting a short..... I can't figure out from where.

The new harness came with no schemetics so I don't know where the ORNG wire (from brake switch) goes. That is the wire my short is in.:let_it_all_out:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update 3.....

I think I found the problem. Read over on the chevelle site where a dude had a similar problem. Somone told him that the front light harness plays with the dash harness as far as brake lights concerned. The schemetics seemed to have support this theory. So I being poking around, and kept asking myself. What is out of place, then I see it. There is a thick red wire attached to the pos side of the bat (after market). Which is connected directly into the front lamp assy harness. I traced the wire all the way to the Alternator. It appears to be a direct feed from the POS side of the bat to the altnator. When I disconnected this wire from the bat, and went into the car, nothing works now, no lights nothing. But the fuse wasn't blowing either. So now what do I do with this "red" wire?

The alternator is a chrome after market and only has the red wire connected to it. All the schemetics show that the altnator should be getting fed from the Horn Relay via the voltage regulator. Any ideas?
 

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if the orange wire goes to the column plug (turn signal switch) it would show a short thru the bulb ground,,
if the rear lighting harnes is disconected or the bulbs are removed it should not show a short..

disconect the plug at the column and test the column and rear harnes one at a time..

i think your looking for 3 wires to test,, the orange wire and the left and right rear stop/turn wires..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Disregard previous post. Apparently this is called a Single Wire Alternator and it connects to the pos side of the bat.

Back at it....
 

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The orange wire should be the + feed from the brake light fuse to the switch. the white wire is the one that goes to the turn signal switch and should only be hot when the switch is activated (brake pedal down).
Like mentioned above you could read a short or a low ohm reading through the white wire because it is feeding the bulbs. The orange should not have a reading to ground. the orange wire is only about 12 - 18 inches long in the harness. Runs from the rear of the fuse box to the switch.
Other orange wires are for the courtesy lights and are also hot all the time.
 
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