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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1967 El Camino that i just finished rewiring,
and the car cranks but won't start. well I guess that's not true, it did start for about 20 seconds one time, but then it sputtered out, which makes me think that there's no problem with the timing or spark. Additionally, the car was running fine a few months ago, but then it overheated and wouldn't start, so I had to rewire the car. Now that the car is rewired and cranking, I'm confused as to why it won't start again. Any tips are greatly appreciated, Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hey P
getting fuel, is the accelerator pump and choke working ??
will it run on Carb Cleaner or WD40 ??

Float may have stuck while sitting ??
Hey JJ,
I am getting fuel, however, the fuel pump starts to leak out of one of the connection points after I attempt to start the engine. I'm pretty sure the choke and accelerator pump is working. I did take the carb apart and clean all the parts/ replace the gaskets about 4 months ago so it should be running fine, either that or I ****ed it up while I was trying to fix it :/ I have been spraying starting fluid in the carb to try to get it started, which helped the one time it started briefly, but I've had no such luck since then.
 

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Update, i got the car to start. Kind of. I read through some other threads and decided to replace the condenser, after doing so it started right up, however i adjusted the timing a little bit because it still seemed a little rough, and now the car will start if i spray some starter fluid in the carb, but seems to idle really high, and makes a screeching noise when I step on the gas pedal. After i turn the car off, there's a lot of white smoke coming from the side of the engine and carburetor.

Where should the timing be at idle?
 

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Ideally you want timing to be a maximum of about 30* at 3000 rpm (intitial plus centrifugal with the vacuum advance disconnected and its hose plugged). That should put your initial at a number that allows it to start, around 5* I think. Screeching noise might be belts slipping? White smoke would be steam, which indicates water leak. Fuel vapor can look white; you may have fuel vapor wafting out of the carb (timing off could cause that) but I don’t know if that would explain seeing it on the side of the engine. What caused it to overheat? How bad did it overheat?
Patrick
 

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Good catch on the condenser. Bad condensers on these old style ignitions was more common than many realize. For my 57 Chev station wagon, I'm swapping in a electronic ignition module into the body of the original distributor.

x2 on prb400 regarding noise, steam, and timing-related overheating.

As for white smoke coming from side of the engine and carb that may indicate oil leak or some kind of residue burning off of the exhaust and intake heat riser passage under the carb.

Sounds like you have a bunch of small gremlins due to your elky's extended sitting. Unfortunately, these pain in the butt issues always arise and just need to be attacked one-by-one. It's all part of the hobby and ownership of classic cars!
 

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wtg P
5* or so for factory initial / idle timing
but it will idle much better at
10-15* initial no vacuum advance
or 20-25* with vacuum advance..
you may want to check the head casting number, see if the heads
are open or closed chamber..
that will make a difference in the timing on now days crap gas..
x2 on the total timing, its more important,
depending on the motor / heads / compression
the total can be 35-40 on the old wedge heads..
.
smoke could be the valve cover leak on pass side..
check the EFE valve on the pass side exhaust manifold,
make sure it will open and its not frozen-up and closed..
that will cook the pass side head / carb / intake..
.
check the accelerator pump,
it should not need starter fluid to start if its working..
1-2 throttle pumps when real cold should do it, 0-1/2 when hot..

hi-idle could be the choke / choke fast idle cam,,
or its rich and has a vacuum leak..
.
x2 on the belt screech..
 
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