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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1967 El Camino that i just finished rewiring,
and the car cranks but won't start. well I guess that's not true, it did start for about 20 seconds one time, but then it sputtered out, which makes me think that there's no problem with the timing or spark. Additionally, the car was running fine a few months ago, but then it overheated and wouldn't start, so I had to rewire the car. Now that the car is rewired and cranking, I'm confused as to why it won't start again. Any tips are greatly appreciated, Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hey P
getting fuel, is the accelerator pump and choke working ??
will it run on Carb Cleaner or WD40 ??

Float may have stuck while sitting ??
Hey JJ,
I am getting fuel, however, the fuel pump starts to leak out of one of the connection points after I attempt to start the engine. I'm pretty sure the choke and accelerator pump is working. I did take the carb apart and clean all the parts/ replace the gaskets about 4 months ago so it should be running fine, either that or I ****ed it up while I was trying to fix it :/ I have been spraying starting fluid in the carb to try to get it started, which helped the one time it started briefly, but I've had no such luck since then.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Update, i got the car to start. Kind of. I read through some other threads and decided to replace the condenser, after doing so it started right up, however i adjusted the timing a little bit because it still seemed a little rough, and now the car will start if i spray some starter fluid in the carb, but seems to idle really high, and makes a screeching noise when I step on the gas pedal. After i turn the car off, there's a lot of white smoke coming from the side of the engine and carburetor.

Where should the timing be at idle?
 

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Ideally you want timing to be a maximum of about 30* at 3000 rpm (intitial plus centrifugal with the vacuum advance disconnected and its hose plugged). That should put your initial at a number that allows it to start, around 5* I think. Screeching noise might be belts slipping? White smoke would be steam, which indicates water leak. Fuel vapor can look white; you may have fuel vapor wafting out of the carb (timing off could cause that) but I don’t know if that would explain seeing it on the side of the engine. What caused it to overheat? How bad did it overheat?
Patrick
 

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Good catch on the condenser. Bad condensers on these old style ignitions was more common than many realize. For my 57 Chev station wagon, I'm swapping in a electronic ignition module into the body of the original distributor.

x2 on prb400 regarding noise, steam, and timing-related overheating.

As for white smoke coming from side of the engine and carb that may indicate oil leak or some kind of residue burning off of the exhaust and intake heat riser passage under the carb.

Sounds like you have a bunch of small gremlins due to your elky's extended sitting. Unfortunately, these pain in the butt issues always arise and just need to be attacked one-by-one. It's all part of the hobby and ownership of classic cars!
 

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wtg P
5* or so for factory initial / idle timing
but it will idle much better at
10-15* initial no vacuum advance
or 20-25* with vacuum advance..
you may want to check the head casting number, see if the heads
are open or closed chamber..
that will make a difference in the timing on now days crap gas..
x2 on the total timing, its more important,
depending on the motor / heads / compression
the total can be 35-40 on the old wedge heads..
.
smoke could be the valve cover leak on pass side..
check the EFE valve on the pass side exhaust manifold,
make sure it will open and its not frozen-up and closed..
that will cook the pass side head / carb / intake..
.
check the accelerator pump,
it should not need starter fluid to start if its working..
1-2 throttle pumps when real cold should do it, 0-1/2 when hot..

hi-idle could be the choke / choke fast idle cam,,
or its rich and has a vacuum leak..
.
x2 on the belt screech..
 

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1-- is the EFE valve.
2-- is that a oil leak ?? smoke

3-- forgot the loose intake bolts.. vacuum leak ??
get some Allen head or 12 point small head bolts for the close spots
by the choke heater..

PTeter22.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey everyone thanks for the help, I have an update. Just did the head gaskets and had the heads resurfaced. I got new AFR bolts for the heads and intake manifold. I also installed a pertronix ignitor 3 electronic ignition with the flame thrower 3 coil. It took me a bit to figure out the timing since I had to reinstall the distributor. I ended up shifting the plug wires around the distributor cap in order to get it around where it needs to be, then I adjusted it to have about 5 degrees advance. When I was adjusting the timing the engine wasn’t running, I had someone turning the motor over with the starter. The engine will now kind of start. It will run really rough if I keep the gas pedal pressed about halfway down, but then if I let up it dies out. I believe I’ve plugged all sources of vacuum leaks. There was a large port on the back of the carb that I put a plug on, the vacuum advance is hooked up, and the brake booster vacuum is hooked up, although there is no brake fluid in the system. My only thought now is that there might be something with the fuel pump? I don’t know though because before I did the heads I was able to get the engine to idle, despite the vacuum leaks
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ideally you want timing to be a maximum of about 30* at 3000 rpm (intitial plus centrifugal with the vacuum advance disconnected and its hose plugged). That should put your initial at a number that allows it to start, around 5* I think. Screeching noise might be belts slipping? White smoke would be steam, which indicates water leak. Fuel vapor can look white; you may have fuel vapor wafting out of the carb (timing off could cause that) but I don’t know if that would explain seeing it on the side of the engine. What caused it to overheat? How bad did it overheat?
Patrick
Thanks Patrick, I think the white smoke was from a water leak, I’ve replaced the head gaskets and now it’s gone. before I got the timing right I did see some white smoke from the carb so you’re probably right about that. My next Issue is getting it to idle
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ideally you want timing to be a maximum of about 30* at 3000 rpm (intitial plus centrifugal with the vacuum advance disconnected and its hose plugged). That should put your initial at a number that allows it to start, around 5* I think. Screeching noise might be belts slipping? White smoke would be steam, which indicates water leak. Fuel vapor can look white; you may have fuel vapor wafting out of the carb (timing off could cause that) but I don’t know if that would explain seeing it on the side of the engine. What caused it to overheat? How bad did it overheat?
Patrick
Thanks Patrick, I’ll make sure to calibrate to 30* on total timing. I honestly still don’t know why the engine overheated to this day, it was a long time ago, I had just got the car running in its stock condition by doing some fluid changes, new battery, plugs, oil, stuff like that. I had never driven it out of town before, (except like a mile on the freeway to see what she could do) I decided I’d try taking it on the freeway, and the temp
Light came on. Maybe I was being too heavy footed with the gas? ( stupid I know, but hey I was 16 at the time) after that I pulled over called triple A, and it wouldn’t start for a long time after that, as some wiring had gone bad. As far as how bad it over heated I really don’t know cuz I only have an idiot light. It was definitely steaming though

833C66E2-E229-4D63-86CE-8A9260B2E235.png
 

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looking at the idle screw [maybe in too far] and 2nd-dary Air Door open
may need some more carb work to get it to idle..

like maybe like the carb idle circuits may be plugged or
choke is too tight..
are the idle screws working or making a change when turned ??

vacuum leaks ??
pinch off the vacuum hoses, see if that makes a difference on idle ??
re-torque the intake bolts, or check them anyway..
check for crossed plug wires..
valve lash too tight ??

more timing at idle will usually help
10-15 initial and 10 more from the Vacuum Advance on Full vacuum..
but the total timing is real important at higher rpm..
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I just fixed the timing, and it seems pretty close to where it should be now. However the engine still won’t start up, so I’m fairly certain there’s a problem with the carb or fuel delivery. Perhaps I messed something up when I was rebuilding the carb? Nothing should be clogged because I dumped all of the parts in carb cleaner for several hour, but I did not adjust the float so maybe that could be the problem? I agree that the choke is too tight, but I can’t figure out how to adjust it. It’s the type of choke that goes down in to a thermostat on top of the intake manifold, and the linkage connecting it is really wonky, I’ll post a pic later. I’m fairly certain there’s no vacuum leaks, and I do have a vacuum gauge, but if u understand correct the engine needs to be running for me to use it. Would the valve lash being too tight also prevent the engine from starting? I don’t want to take the intake manifold off to re-adjust them and I know I can do it with the engine running, so would it be a good idea to loosen each one a quarter turn and see if that helps? Then properly adjust them later with engine running? All the plug wires are going to the correct cylinders, I think I’ve checked about 5 times now. Thanks for the help JJ

looking at the idle screw [maybe in too far] and 2nd-dary Air Door open
may need some more carb work to get it to idle..

like maybe like the carb idle circuits may be plugged or
choke is too tight..
are the idle screws working or making a change when turned ??

vacuum leaks ??
pinch off the vacuum hoses, see if that makes a difference on idle ??
re-torque the intake bolts, or check them anyway..
check for crossed plug wires..
valve lash too tight ??

more timing at idle will usually help
10-15 initial and 10 more from the Vacuum Advance on Full vacuum..
but the total timing is real important at higher rpm..
 

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I just fixed the timing, and it seems pretty close to where it should be now. However the engine still won’t start up, so I’m fairly certain there’s a problem with the carb or fuel delivery. Perhaps I messed something up when I was rebuilding the carb? Nothing should be clogged because I dumped all of the parts in carb cleaner for several hour, but I did not adjust the float so maybe that could be the problem? I agree that the choke is too tight, but I can’t figure out how to adjust it. It’s the type of choke that goes down in to a thermostat on top of the intake manifold, and the linkage connecting it is really wonky, I’ll post a pic later. I’m fairly certain there’s no vacuum leaks, and I do have a vacuum gauge, but if u understand correct the engine needs to be running for me to use it. Would the valve lash being too tight also prevent the engine from starting? I don’t want to take the intake manifold off to re-adjust them and I know I can do it with the engine running, so would it be a good idea to loosen each one a quarter turn and see if that helps? Then properly adjust them later with engine running? All the plug wires are going to the correct cylinders, I think I’ve checked about 5 times now. Thanks for the help JJ
"Then properly adjust them later with engine running?"

There's no reason to adjust hydraulic lifters with the engine running.
 

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I just fixed the timing, and it seems pretty close to where it should be now. However the engine still won’t start up, so I’m fairly certain there’s a problem with the carb or fuel delivery. Perhaps I messed something up when I was rebuilding the carb? Nothing should be clogged because I dumped all of the parts in carb cleaner for several hour, but I did not adjust the float so maybe that could be the problem? I agree that the choke is too tight, but I can’t figure out how to adjust it. It’s the type of choke that goes down in to a thermostat on top of the intake manifold, and the linkage connecting it is really wonky, I’ll post a pic later. I’m fairly certain there’s no vacuum leaks, and I do have a vacuum gauge, but if u understand correct the engine needs to be running for me to use it. Would the valve lash being too tight also prevent the engine from starting? I don’t want to take the intake manifold off to re-adjust them and I know I can do it with the engine running, so would it be a good idea to loosen each one a quarter turn and see if that helps? Then properly adjust them later with engine running? All the plug wires are going to the correct cylinders, I think I’ve checked about 5 times now. Thanks for the help JJ
"I did not adjust the float so maybe that could be the problem? I agree that the choke is too tight, but I can’t figure out how to adjust it."

I doubt that the float level is your problem but you should have checked the float level when you installed the new float. The choke will most likely be closed when the engine is cold but as soon as it starts the vacuum operated choke pull off should open the choke slightly as soon as the engine starts. You can check the pull off operation with a small handheld vacuum pump. The heat coil in the intake manifold will open the choke the rest of the way. You may need a new heat coil but I doubt it. I've rebuilt many Q-Jets over the years and never had to adjust the choke linkage. Some SBC intake manifold gaskets have a pretty small hole in the heat riser openings. Does yours?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
"I did not adjust the float so maybe that could be the problem? I agree that the choke is too tight, but I can’t figure out how to adjust it."

I doubt that the float level is your problem but you should have checked the float level when you installed the new float. The choke will most likely be closed when the engine is cold but as soon as it starts the vacuum operated choke pull off should open the choke slightly as soon as the engine starts. You can check the pull off operation with a small handheld vacuum pump. The heat coil in the intake manifold will open the choke the rest of the way. You may need a new heat coil but I doubt it. I've rebuilt many Q-Jets over the years and never had to adjust the choke linkage. Some SBC intake manifold gaskets have a pretty small hole in the heat riser openings. Does yours?
I agree that there should be no problem with the carb, I have gotten the engine sort of running a few times as the carb is. Also I’m not too worried about the float, I wasn’t able to find a new one so I just kept the old one with the rebuild, so the adjustment should be ok. What are heat risers?
 
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