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Discussion Starter #22
New update: just did a compression test on 1 3 5 and 7, and discovered 0 compression all cylinders. I recently replaced the head gaskets and there was no problem with compression before that. Does anyone have ideas about what could have happened?
 

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I just read thru this thread and what struck me is you seem to be jumping around and encountering different oddball issues that were not there before. and now you're not getting compression on half your cylinders?

it's time to make a checklist and run thru it, noting the results in sequence:

1) does it turn over? yes, starter works. no, check electrical
2) are you getting spark at all the plugs? visually verify, check wires AND plugs
3) are your plug wires in sequence? are you sure they are in sequence?
4) pull the valve covers, inspect valve train for issues, check rockers, valve springs, pushrods
5) do the other cylinders still have compression (2, 4, 6, 8)?
6) new AFR bolts; have you re-checked the torque settings?

you also said, "Just did the head gaskets and had the heads resurfaced. "
when you had the heads milled, did you also replace valves, valve springs, etc?

I'm probably being a bit anal here but it just seems like some new issue keeps popping up every time you try something different.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I just read thru this thread and what struck me is you seem to be jumping around and encountering different oddball issues that were not there before. and now you're not getting compression on half your cylinders?

it's time to make a checklist and run thru it, noting the results in sequence:

1) does it turn over? yes, starter works. no, check electrical
2) are you getting spark at all the plugs? visually verify, check wires AND plugs
3) are your plug wires in sequence? are you sure they are in sequence?
4) pull the valve covers, inspect valve train for issues, check rockers, valve springs, pushrods
5) do the other cylinders still have compression (2, 4, 6, 8)?
6) new AFR bolts; have you re-checked the torque settings?

you also said, "Just did the head gaskets and had the heads resurfaced. "
when you had the heads milled, did you also replace valves, valve springs, etc?

I'm probably being a bit anal here but it just seems like some new issue keeps popping up every time you try something different.
haha, youve perfectly embodied how I feel working on this car! I agree it seems like new issues just keep popping up, and it’s super annoying!!!

to answer your questions,

the engine does turn over, and I have verified that I have spark. I did only check the #1 spark plug, so thanks for bringing that up as I may have over-looked checking the rest of them. I have tested all the plug wires and verified they are OK, and the plugs are fairly new, but hey it never hurts to be absolutely certain right?

I think I’ve checked the plug sequence about 5 times at this point so I’m certain the sequence is correct.

I have not rechecked the torque for the intake. I used the stock Chevy torque specs and I’m certain I got the order correct. Would the AFR use different specs? And in order to double check would I have to loosen them possibly causing coolant to leak into the engine?

I did not rebuild the heads, only had them resurfaced. But the guys at the machine shop told me they were in decent condition, and I’m not too worried as the engine has been rebuilt previous to my ownership.

about the compression...
It turns out the gauge was bad, I used a new gauge and got numbers in the 140s. Alright, but much lower than they used to be. After that test I re-adjusted the valves and then the compression went up right to where it should be. I got around 170 in all the left cylinders(2468) and 160 in all the right cylinders with the exception of cylinder #1 which was at 140.

I’m wondering why there is a difference in the numbers between different banks of cylinders, is this something I should be worried about?

where I’m at now:

the car still won’t start, but it will sputter a little bit. I’ve adjusted the timing to 5 degrees advanced, and that’s where it seems to sputter the most. I’m not worried about fuel, as I have confirmed the pump is working, and just had the carb rebuilt professionally. The only thing left that could possibly be wrong is spark. I confirmed I was getting spark to #1 by holding it to aground while cranking the engine( Link to that here) and my autoshop teacher said that it looked alright. But perhaps I messed up somehow while I was rewiring the car(with painless kit 10104) or installing my pertromix ignitor 3 electronic ignition, and maybe it isn't Strong enough after all?

sorry for the long post, but now you should be caught up on where I’m at. I agree it’s super annoying, so I’m very thankful to everyone helping me out and I hope some people can solve their own problems reading through this thread!

In case you missed it, Here is the link to my spark test
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I'd put the stock points ignition back in it..
I know a lot of people like the good old points, but even if I wanted to, I don’t have the stock ones, I found out the car came with an ignitor 1 installed, and now that I’ve bought an ignitor 3 I think I’m gonna stock with it since I liek that is has a rev limiter and multi-spark
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Well, I’m making progress. Just replaced the plug wires and double checked the firing order, the engine will now run if I fold the throttle halfway open, but dies after letting off
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Well, I’m making progress. Just replaced the plug wires and double checked the firing order, the engine will now run if I fold the throttle halfway open, but dies after letting off

above is a link to a video of what I just described. There is a weird noise, and the belt is screeching. It’s a little hard to hear the other noise over the belt screech but it’s there. Anyone have ideas on what that noise is or how I could make it idle?
 

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Perhaps check the plugs. I once troubleshot a car and after checking/adjusting everything, it turned out the be a bad/weak set of plugs. The new wires may have helped your plugs work better.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Perhaps check the plugs. I once troubleshot a car and after checking/adjusting everything, it turned out the be a bad/weak set of plugs. The new wires may have helped your plugs work better.
I hadn’t thought of that, I assumed they’d be ok since they’re fairly new but who knows right?
 
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