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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been off for a while, my '68 was in the body shop. Here are some photos of the progress. First picture is how I got it less drivetrain. Second one is after it was sandblasted, what a mess! Third one is with the 350/4speed installed, fourth one is in my driveway today in guide coat and new brakes/wheels/tires.

I have to re-install the cleaned up tank and new fuel line, then it's driveable. Lot of rust for a California car, but all fixed now. 2 fenders, quarter patches and lots of extra holes, plus a tailgate. It goes back for paint in June, Dodge "plum crazy" purple, then the re-assembly commences! Why do I do this stuff?

Hans
 

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Excellent. Why do any of us do this? We're mutants but wouldn't have it any other way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I got it running with the restored original tank and a new (sectioned) fuel line. There was no way to put the full length 3/8 line in without pulling the body off. That ain't happening!
It runs awesome, 1974 350 4 bolt main, standard bore with 10-1 Keith Black Forged pistons, Eagle rods, forged crank, World 200 cc heads, Edelbrock single plane manifold, 1971 Holley 780 CFM carb off of a LT-1 Z-28 (worth more than the rest of the engine!), Hooker 1/78" long tube headers, and a hot Lunati cam. Gonna drive it tomorrow, at least around the neighborhood to check out the four speed Muncie M-20.

Is there a way to post a video? I have photo posting site if that's the way to go. It sounds awesome, even with the cobbled together exhaust. Onward!

Hans
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Another thing just occurred to me. How much power will the base 10 bolt rear end handle? Sierra gears here in Sacramento say they can build a positraction gear set in any ratio I want that will handle 400 horsepower, but that seems at the limit for such a small rear end. I ran a 1964 Chevelle 12 bolt posi behind a built Ram Air 3 in a GTO because I kept busting the corporate 10 bolt, even the axles!
Let me know what you folks think.

Hans
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK, making good progress. It is back at the body shop, ready for paint in about a week. Next is the "plumb crazy" purple after a few details and cleanup

Wheel Car Tire Land vehicle Vehicle
Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Motor vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The dash and firewall will be next (satin black), the hood and doors come off first. I still need to re-finish the tailgate hinges before it goes back together. the shop will hang the doors, hood and tailgate with the appropriate rubber stops when its painted (seriously, don't forget the stops, ask me how I know!), then it gets delivered and the big job begins.

Hans
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Major progress! Paint is on the car, some small details left (dash, rear of the cab, etc...). Here are the photos. I'll have it in my shop next week, then the fun begins. I de-contented the body so only the wheel opening trim, the front marker lights, bed rail chrome and windshield/back glass stainless will go back on. I have not decided on the door trim, it looks really good with out it right now. I'm real happy.

Hans
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Making progress. Assembly is progressing, but I have questions for the experts/experienced. I'm assembling the tailgate, and the kit I bought with the panels has these weird pieces I don't recognize. Any idea what they are for?
The rest of the stuff is good, it goes over on monday to get the headliner installed.

Hans
 

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@Wrencher Hans, I have a thought.
Was your kit intended for 1968 through 1972?
The 1968 does not have backup lights in the tailgate. 1969 through 1972 do have the lights.
When I redid my wires, I found smaller plastic clips to hold the electric lines as the passed from the driver's side to the passenger side backup lights on my tailgate.

I want to encourage others to reply, because they might be for something else.
See the good post in post 18 on these being for tailgate top molding.
 

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I may be wrong, yet here is an image of mine before wiring.
I added the a, b, c, d in red to identify where they might go.
They may go with the little tips pointing up (when tailgate is open.
Motor vehicle Gas Hood Bumper Automotive exterior
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
New update: I have spent the last two weeks assembling some of the body parts. Tailgate latches and cables, door latches and handles, grille, rear bumper, headliner insulation, and so on. adding a couple of photos.
On another note, I'm real unhappy with the Muncie shifter that is in the car. I previously had one in my '69 L-68 Corvette that was locking up between 1st and reverse at times. I'd climb under and put the trans lever right and be on my way. It was a rare event, so I lived with it. Now, the same shifter is doing the same thing, but worse! I had it at the shop, thought I had it licked, and it bound up as I tried to back out! That's it for me, I have a new Hurst Competition plus in the box with linkage going in this week. I like the look of the Muncie, but enough is enough. I have never had an issue with the Hurst unit, both in My BOSS 302 and in my old GTO's, so that's that.
Going over next week for the headliner install, then a new windshield (tinted and shaded) as well as the back glass. It's a factory A/C car, so all the glass is tinted. Oh and thanks to FL Kymino, I hadn't even considered that. I'll go and check it out shortly!

Hans

P.S. does that look like the right outside mirror? I was planing on ordering the driver's remote mirror option, but if this is correct, I'll put it on the passenger side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
One thing I didn't mention, I first mounted the grille in it's original unpainted finish and it looked awful, so I painted it satin black. I much prefer that look

Hans
 
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