El Camino Central Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
from reading and searching I read that my 69 350 came with resistance built into the harness ???? to limit voltage to points and coil. something like 9v.

I installed a crane coil ps20 and xr-i module.
it all works OK. no issues. I did NOT install supplied inline ballast resistor comes with kit since I already had reduced voltage. nor did I bypass with relay. i just left as it was.


I am bringing my ride to Lars on saturday for a distributor rebuild and run thru the sun machine and timing set-up. also final check of my carb rebuild.

he insists on using a points setup PERIOD. i am fine with that.

FINALLY MY QUESTION.


my ps20 coil is made for both electronic and points. says to use supplied ballast resistor.




FINALLY THE QUESTION: sorry about that/

will i need to add the resistor or is what I had OK with the new coil and POINTS IGNITION?????? or go back to old coil OR??

AND CAN I USE THE LOW RESISTANCE WIRES WITH POINTS?

As always, thanks for your time.
rob

i searched all over.

oem coil was gm 1115293 but cant find any exact specs of original.






ps20
Coil Wire Attachment:Female/Socket
Coil Style:Canister
Primary Resistance:1.400 ohms
Coil Internal Construction:Oil-filled
Coil Color:Black
Turns Ratio:60:1
Secondary Resistance:5.2K ohms
Inductance:7.5 mH
Mounting Bracket Included:No
Coil Wire Included:No
Ballast Resistor Included:Yes
Coil Shape:Round
Diameter (in):2.125 in.
Height (in):5.750 in.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,711 Posts
two ballast resistors and voltage will be too low to actually allow a good coil saturation. 1 or the other
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,970 Posts
that's an opportunity right there Rob
if he has a distributor machine to do the testing on
I would get a rebuilt points distributor also, and take it too
put the points in your distributor, and set up the rebuilt one with the xri and the same curves..

you can test the new resister and see if its close to the original resister wire,
check the voltage thru it or ohm it, or both..
and ohm the resister wire from the firewall plug to the coil [key off]..

take both coils with you just in case..

AND CAN I USE THE LOW RESISTANCE WIRES WITH POINTS?
I assume you mean the sparkplug wires??
every brand has the lowest resistance, more HP, more TQ, ......
i'm not even sure what they should read now days?? except they should be the same ohms per ft..
ask Lars about that, i'd like to know too, if there is a big difference?? how much is to much??

i'm sure he has some tricks..
take notes, and we'll need a update..
:texas:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
gilby my 69 had the resistance built into the wire.

but the coil did come with a resistor like you posted......sort of a mopar style. I will bring it with me just in case.

i have not bypassed that original wiring so like 464 says adding another resistor or more resistance would not be a good idea. so long as its not full voltage i should be fine.

I found my old coil and will bring just in case the NEW COIL is too much.




JJ from a few short coversations with Lars he wants nothing to do with electronics. says he removes them sets up the points, and returns. he goes on about the points too. he uses good stuff that should last a year or more of regular use. you can do what you want when you get home. and I had put the crane setup into my original distro so I only have one.

i did some searches and seems like a newer plug wire, i have the crane exact fit set up, will work fine with points. not downside I can find.

and for the coil, its just to make sure I have some type of resistance, either added like gilby posted, or internal in my harness.


he asked that I leave the vehicle with him for the day as he is real busy this weekend......so i will absorb what I can.

I do have some of his papers about vac adv, timing setup, and distro removal. of course the site wont let me attach anything bigger than 19.5 KB in doc format LOL i will find a place or look for them online and get some links.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
brought my elco to Lars for a distributor rebuild and ignition and timing today.

kept crane wires and coil. checked coil hot side was not receiving full voltage so no need for additional resistor.

said distro was very sloppy; has a Sun machine so he sets them up right. also vacuum advance wasn't correct so he swapped in the correct vacuum advance thingy. he sets you up with points; only way he does it.

changed vacuum advance from ported vacuum to manifold vacuum.

initial timing set at 18°
full advance 36°

also adjusted/replaced some of the springs and weights along with new vacuum advance so that 36° comes at about 2800......it was about 3400 rpm/


i also had a cold start with the Quadrajet where it was just too rich under choke. he adjusted it to '13 to 1' ???? so not as rich on choke.
found accelerator pump was 'funny' so he replaced that too.



drives like I expected it should have from day 1. i was like nanawrench all the way home :nanawrench:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
12,123 Posts
Points are OK, it's all we had for decades. Only thing is, Chevys eat points & plugs, like 12 to 15 K miles and they are ready for replacement.
If you like the look of the points distributor, you could put an electronic conversion kit in it. like the one Pertronics sells, and not have to fool with points anymore. Mallory sells a conversion kit also..
Also, with the electronic conversion, no more fooling with the old Sun machine, or dwell meters etc...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,009 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Not sure i follow bill. Those setups, i had crane, mount to points plate on distro. So WHY do you say Sun machine not needed.....ssme distro. Same curve. Same bushings. same weights. I have to say that YES Sun machine and setting up your distibutor is just as important with either points or electronic conversions.



I removed the crane kit.....way better than pPetronix.

Tuner does his magic with points for reasons Like Dwell. Can't get dwell from the electronic things.

Tuner told me to reinstall Crane if I want to now that timing and advance is set proper.

I rode KICK ONLY harleys for many years Bill. I worked at a shop that did testing for crane when they developed thier harley single fire points replacements in the late 80s so I have a lot of love for POINTS REPLACEMENTS.

When the points need changing I will consider reinstalling the crane setup.......10-15K could be a century in my elco though :D


Points are OK, it's all we had for decades. Only thing is, Chevys eat points & plugs, like 12 to 15 K miles and they are ready for replacement.
If you like the look of the points distributor, you could put an electronic conversion kit in it. like the one Pertronics sells, and not have to fool with points anymore. Mallory sells a conversion kit also..
Also, with the electronic conversion, no more fooling with the old Sun machine, or dwell meters etc...
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,011 Posts
It looks like Mallory parts are now part of MSD.

http://www.msdperformance.com/default.aspx
"In January of 2015, MSD Performance purchased the ACCEL Performance Group. The MSDP Group, a global leader in vehicle aftermarket performance ignition and tuning technology, made the decision to merge the top two companies in the automotive ignition industry worldwide—MSD and Mallory. Mallory will no longer manufacture its product line after March 31st. However, MSD will produce and service Mallory distributor replacement parts such as caps, rotors, points, and nearly 100 other items."
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Your very lucky your close to Lars. He just did my Quadrajet for my 69 SS396. He is a legend on the Corvette Forum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,345 Posts
Lars insists on points, wow I am impressed (of course that and a buck will get you a coffee lol)..

I prefer points on engines that stay under 6000... Accel still makes excellent points or you can buy NOS "Made in USA" points all over e-Bay right now..
I add a washer or two to the adjustment spring to keep a little more tension against it so the adjustment stays put..

I prefer copper core wires with points systems. I also solder the wire to the metal tab... That said the last time I switches from Taylor carbon core to Packard 440 copper core, I think my engine ran a little smother on the top end with the Taylors..

I would make a second timing mark at 30 degrees before top dead center, put a timing light on it, find out were he set everything and write it all down. Use the new timing mark as your guide. If it shows 2 degrees on the new mark, that means you have 32 degrees, 4 degrees means 34 and so on. That way you know were it belongs..
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top