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Damn, that is so much crazy work. I feel like my projects are simple compared to some of the other big jobs I have seen on this forum.

I think you should have left the holes in the floors, then you can Flinstone and not have to rebuild the motor. :p
 

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I think you may need a new fuel tank sender. If it is not reading full when full, then the resistance is not correct. It may be wiring, but most likely the send is failing. It is 50 years old after all.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I think you may need a new fuel tank sender. If it is not reading full when full, then the resistance is not correct. It may be wiring, but most likely the send is failing. It is 50 years old after all.
It’s definitely been a lot of work. I didn’t expect it to take this long, but then again life happens. With full time work, a house, wife and two kids, sometimes it can be Challenging finding time.
As for the sending unit, I’ve replaced it once a couple years ago. Could it just be a defective unit? A buddy said I might need to adjust the float, is that something that’s usually done when replacing it? I was under the impression it was all set when new so I just installed it. I also habe a newer rear harness in the car so unless it’s wiring between that and the dash, I don’t think its a wiring issue.
 

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Looks like you are taking your time and doing it right. I decided to just get the 2 complete floor pan halves to avoid the fit issues that you experienced. Glad I did! Only $150 each. Went in really nice and is solid.
 

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It’s definitely been a lot of work. I didn’t expect it to take this long, but then again life happens. With full time work, a house, wife and two kids, sometimes it can be Challenging finding time.
As for the sending unit, I’ve replaced it once a couple years ago. Could it just be a defective unit? A buddy said I might need to adjust the float, is that something that’s usually done when replacing it? I was under the impression it was all set when new so I just installed it. I also habe a newer rear harness in the car so unless it’s wiring between that and the dash, I don’t think its a wiring issue.
I had two defective floats right from brand new. I went with the internal float design by Tanks and this worked perfectly.
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The best way to test your float is to pull it out and let it rest at 0 poistion, float down. Gauge should show empty. Raise float to top of tank position (you may need to estimate this) and gauge should show full. If your float passes this test then you need to make sure there is no obstruction in the tank that may have prevented the float from reaching that full upward position. If it has a hole in it and takes in gas or the float hits the baffle in the tank, then you won't be getting the float into the top position.

Check your sender too. You should have a 90 ohm sender for a 70 elky. If your gauge cluster or wiring is from a different car then you may have a problem. You need a sender that matches the ohm expectancy of the system. I think it reads 0 ohms when empty and 90 ohms when full and everything in between these resistance levels should indicate the fuel level. You can use an ohm meter to make sure it is working correctly and that you have the correct sending unit for the car. I do not recall if the sender is stamped with the ohms rating, but it may.

Good luck, I had a lot of problems with mine until I went to the top model sender. Now my guage reads perfectly every time and does not bounce.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I had two defective floats right from brand new. I went with the internal float design by Tanks and this worked perfectly.
View attachment 132006

The best way to test your float is to pull it out and let it rest at 0 poistion, float down. Gauge should show empty. Raise float to top of tank position (you may need to estimate this) and gauge should show full. If your float passes this test then you need to make sure there is no obstruction in the tank that may have prevented the float from reaching that full upward position. If it has a hole in it and takes in gas or the float hits the baffle in the tank, then you won't be getting the float into the top position.

Check your sender too. You should have a 90 ohm sender for a 70 elky. If your gauge cluster or wiring is from a different car then you may have a problem. You need a sender that matches the ohm expectancy of the system. I think it reads 0 ohms when empty and 90 ohms when full and everything in between these resistance levels should indicate the fuel level. You can use an ohm meter to make sure it is working correctly and that you have the correct sending unit for the car. I do not recall if the sender is stamped with the ohms rating, but it may.

Good luck, I had a lot of problems with mine until I went to the top model sender. Now my guage reads perfectly every time and does not bounce.
Thanks, I'll be checking that just as soon as I finish up a few other projects. As far as I know, the cluster and wiring hasn't been changed.

I spent some time this morning dropping the dash to get at the back of the cluster easier. I've opted to go away from the column mounted Tach, I don't want to scuff up the fresh paint, but I also wanted to clean up the interior. The column mounted unit was a tad bulky and impeded view of the cluster.
I'm also working on trying to develop a template to build the speaker "box" that will attach to the rear shelf panel. Once I have that complete, I'll start buttoning up the lower part of the interior. I have new carpet, a new Retro style radio, and a slightly used, but new dash pad I bought from @dconwffw that I'm looking forward to putting in. My old pad was bent up at the end, and the screws would pull out every time I tried to push it down and secure it.

In talking with a buddy of mine who just rebuilt his 4 speed muncie, I think I might pull mine and have him go through it. Its a 63-65 model and I don't think it's ever been rebuilt. It leaks like a sieve, and everything underneath is coated in gear oil. I'm fairly certain the synchros are worn out as it grinds from 1st to 2nd unless you take 30 seconds to shift, or double clutch it. I really don't want to pull the trans, but it's something that's been on the list of things to get done for quite some time now. I want to get the car back together and drive it, not take it further apart, but on the other hand, it's already apart, why not fix a few more things while I'm at it, right?

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Discussion Starter #27
I noticed that I forgot to post updates of the floor. I finished seam sealing the floors, etch primed the bare metal, then primed the entire floor. Once all that dried, I installed the Dynamat on the rear panel, and all the floor pans. Now I just need to build the speaker panel for the rear shelf that I mentioned in my previous post, that will house the 6x9's and possibly a subwoofer/amp. Trying to come up with something good to use as a template to cut the plywood. The masking paper I attempted to use was too flimsy and I couldn't get an accurate form of the rear kick panels. I want the panel to cover side to side, as much as possible. So I was going to use a jigsaw to cut the shape of the kick panels at the proper distance. It'd be nice to get it within 1/8" on both sides so that it'll be nice and clean. I plan to wrap it with some type of felt/speaker carpet. Open to suggestions on that, as well as where to find the material.
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Nice work on the Dynamat. Did you roll it down tight. It look like you did not roll it at all, but I did see your roller. I have a ridged roller so maybe yours is just a flat roller.

I know it is a lot of work, and probably not necessary on the floor, but I like to tape the exposed edges of the Dynamat with cloth tape. I use the 3M cloth friction tape. If you don't then after the Dynamat heats up the edges will bleed the rubber compound and it sticks to everything and is messy. I would add the tape to the back wall area and any other places where you are likely to see or access the area.

Stereo plans sound good. There are some nice kick panel speakers available for this car too if you want a really nice system. They are easy to install too.
 

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@A. McGovern
It sounds like you are thinking of making something other than using the rear kick panels.
Keep in mind that the panels have features that wrap the lower sharp edge of the door opening metal.
That would be difficult to wrap carpet around without causing excess material to cause the doors to be difficult to close.
Even a crack in the stock panel wraps can cause enough expansion to cause difficulty.
 

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I don't mean to say it it impossible. However, calling this out now would make planning any modification attempt more successful.
Here is an image of installed panel showing the wrap.
You could possibly find a "U" channel that would make the wrap to protect from the sharp edge.
It would possibly be better to find one with a longer leg on the inside channel to hold onto more of your modification.
Exceeding the thickness on the inside of the door jam area is likely to cause problems closing the door.
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Even a small crack in the upper compound bend area like the one in image below can cause door to not close well.
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Discussion Starter #31
Nice work on the Dynamat. Did you roll it down tight. It look like you did not roll it at all, but I did see your roller. I have a ridged roller so maybe yours is just a flat roller.

I know it is a lot of work, and probably not necessary on the floor, but I like to tape the exposed edges of the Dynamat with cloth tape. I use the 3M cloth friction tape. If you don't then after the Dynamat heats up the edges will bleed the rubber compound and it sticks to everything and is messy. I would add the tape to the back wall area and any other places where you are likely to see or access the area.

Stereo plans sound good. There are some nice kick panel speakers available for this car too if you want a really nice system. They are easy to install too.
The Dynamat is rolled down tight. I've installed it in one other vehicle before (one I wish I hadn't sold), but I put my weight behind it and roll it down as tight as I can get it. You are right, mine is a flat roller. It's the one that is sold by Dynamat. I've already taped half of the floor with Dynamats tape. I need to finish that up. I didn't do it on the truck I had installed it in before and luckily I didn't have to pull the interior apart, but I'm sure the jute was stuck to it all over. It's already been stuck to the bottom of my shoes, just in working in the interior.

I have a set of kick panel speakers, I can't remember where they came from. They were bought quite some time ago. So I'll have the speakers in the kick panels and the 6x9's in the rear panel as well as the subwoofer if I decide to add that into the mix.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I don't mean to say it it impossible. However, calling this out now would make planning any modification attempt more successful.
Here is an image of installed panel showing the wrap.
You could possibly find a "U" channel that would make the wrap to protect from the sharp edge.
It would possibly be better to find one with a longer leg on the inside channel to hold onto more of your modification.
Exceeding the thickness on the inside of the door jam area is likely to cause problems closing the door.
View attachment 132156

Even a small crack in the upper compound bend area like the one in image below can cause door to not close well.
View attachment 132157
Old Bear, thank you for the suggestions, but I do plan to use the kick panels. What I meant, is that I want to outline, the interior edges of the rear kick panels, and cut the wood to fit that contour, as tightly as possible. I want to limit the gap between the kick panels and what will be the speaker panel that will span the width of the car between the two kick panels. Trying to map out that outline is proving to be a little difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
While I haven't don't any more with the interior, per se. I have been working on other issues. After pulling the trans out, I've been getting lots of help, tips, and suggestions from @dieselhead in regards to my clutch return spring issue. Greatly appreciated. Along the same lines, I pulled the clutch and brake pedals off this morning to change the plastic bushings. The rod attached to the clutch pedal had been worn down, and I had purchased a replacement rod/bushing kit just in case. Went to change it, ground off the end of the rod, used a punch and removed it from the pedal, then noticed the hole for the rod is rectangular and the replacement is a round bolt. Doesn't make sense to me. How will it grip enough when pushing the pedal to spin the pedal and bolt as one, and not just the pedal alone? If that happens, eventually it will wear down the contact area of the bolt causing yet another problem. And again, the problem there is the bolt is round and too large for the hole and the hole is rectangular. Point being, yet another snag, I might need to get a set of pedals as well as a clutch linkage kit.

Old pin removed from the clutch pedal.
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Clutch/Brake pedal pivot pin kit. Uses a bolt to replace the pin, with sleeves and bushings. I'm not sure if this is designed to clamp the pedals and the bolt together as one, and have it all pivot inside the sleeves. I feel like that would negate the use of the plastic bushings. I'm not feeling confident in this design and I've half started looking for a replacement set of pedals.

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New bolt is larger than the rectangular hole. Not all too surprising, but trying to drill it larger while keeping it center will be extremely difficult with no material there to keep the bit aligned.

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Another issue is the length of the hole. If the bolt isn't clamped tight to try to keep it in place, I feel like the pedal would drop back and forth on the bolt as it's depressed.

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Discussion Starter #34
All that going on and I'm debating diving into another problem fix. The oil pan leaks, has for a long time. I think it's the rear main, and possible the front seal as well. I keep going back and forth about whether or not I should try and tackle that issue right now. It's one of those things, how deep do you want to go? It's hard to know when to stop. I could end up tearing the entire car apart with the snowball effect. But then the car would sit for years waiting on time and money to fix everything I come across. Please advise!

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So the trans is disconnected. How much more work to pull the engine and do the seals outside the engine bay?
Could you prep/paint the bay while engine out?
 

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Discussion Starter #36
So the trans is disconnected. How much more work to pull the engine and do the seals outside the engine bay?
Could you prep/paint the bay while engine out?
@Old Bear I'd rather not pull the engine. The plan is (if money allows) to build the 396 that has been sitting in my garage for about a decade. The plan was to build that this year. Then COVID hit, and priorities changed. Ideally I'd just like to do small fixes until I can do the major change. I'd love to pull this (not so much love to do all the work TO pull it), fix the leaks, throw in a mild cam, paint the engine with Chevy Orange Ceramic paint, and clean up the compartment. But those types of things can be done when I pull the engine to swap for the 396. Many things will have to be disassembled and changed for that project.
 

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All that going on and I'm debating diving into another problem fix. The oil pan leaks, has for a long time. I think it's the rear main, and possible the front seal as well. I keep going back and forth about whether or not I should try and tackle that issue right now. It's one of those things, how deep do you want to go? It's hard to know when to stop. I could end up tearing the entire car apart with the snowball effect. But then the car would sit for years waiting on time and money to fix everything I come across. Please advise!

I suggest you try to keep the car running and enjoy it. The leaks are annoying, but will not lead to bigger problems if you keep it oiled and babied. I would spend the time and money on other projects that allow me to keep driving and enjoying. This is why I was so ticked off over the FiTech EFI. Car was not reliable for the past three years and finally I threw in the towel and replaced it. If I spent that time and money on the leaks, I would still not have a reliable car. Drive on.

396 project sounds big, but solves your leaky 350.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I suggest you try to keep the car running and enjoy it. The leaks are annoying, but will not lead to bigger problems if you keep it oiled and babied. I would spend the time and money on other projects that allow me to keep driving and enjoying. This is why I was so ticked off over the FiTech EFI. Car was not reliable for the past three years and finally I threw in the towel and replaced it. If I spent that time and money on the leaks, I would still not have a reliable car. Drive on.

396 project sounds big, but solves your leaky 350.
I fully agree. I want to be able to drive it so I will keep working on the interior, to get that finished up and back together. Once my transmission is done, I'll reinstall and then I should be off and running. I have a few parts on order due to show up this week that will help move the interior along. The car has been down long enough with the floor pan replacement, I'm ready to be back in the drivers seat!

The 396 project will be a large one, but nothing has to be done until the engine is ready. That will take a bit of time so I can enjoy the car in the meantime.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
I'm in the process of building a speaker panel for the rear. It will mount underneath the front edge of the "package tray" lip, and the bottom will rest on the edge just above the smugglers box. I also have a large 12" sub I'd like to throw into the car as well. The sub is a 12" pioneer that was left behind in the garage of a house I rented about 7 years ago. It is mounted in a vehicle specific box right now, I want to get a new box for it that will fit behind the seat on the floor. My question is, since my seat is currently out of the car, what are the largest dimensions I can put back there? Does anyone know the distance from the back of the bench seat, to the back wall? Also, should my 6x9's be enclosed on the rear of the panel? Or is mounted in the plywood sufficient enough for speakers? Also, what would be a good amp? It's a bit of a hodge podge system, I'm not looking for anything crazy, just decent sound with the items I have.
Head unit is brand new from Crutchfield. Retrosound Long Beach (Had the same one installed in my '76 C30 Silverado, worked fantastic)
Kick panel speakers with the pioneers they came with
Polk Audio 6x9's
12" Pioneer sub woofer. NOT a shallow sub, it's about 7 inches deep.
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