No worries! I have too. I need to upload photos of my latest progress. Which was over two weeks ago. I'm going to install the 6x9's in the panel in the back without any enclosures. I talked to a buddy of mine that used to install Stereos and he said they should do just fine. So a little work saved, I'm going with no enclosures. If I find that the sound is compromised, I may add enclosures later. But this car is just a cruiser, I haven't had any sound in it ever since I bought it, so even a couple of small speakers will be a huge improvement.Been busy, sorry.
In response to your speaker install, 6x9s have really good mid-bass response. They work great in panels like doors and rear decks where the magnet is in the trunk space. I the Elky, all the space is open and shared so you will get better performance if you mount these in a box. Simple pre-made boxes are fine. they do not need a lot of volume.
As for the subwoofer, I do not know the max depth to permit full bench movement, but you will want about 1.25 cu ft for a 12" sub. This is more space than you think. So, make sure you do correct measurements. I extended my sub into the smugglers box. This came out really well and looks awesome.
Thanks! Appreciate it. I can't wait for it to be done so that I can get behind the wheel again!Wow, really nice work on the headliner! The speaker panel looks great too. With the speakers in a panel like that, seperating front from rear air space, I agree that you will get good performance without adding enclosures. I thought you were just mounting them in that metal panel with them firing downward into the open cab.
I can't wait to see how the interior finishes up.
Thanks Scott. Greatly appreciate that. I'm no pro, and I'm sure the photos are doing my work lots of justice, but i do try to take my time and do good work. I try to work/live by the motto "Anything worth doing, is worth doing right the first time". Occasionally I slack on that, though.The quality of your work is quite spectacular. It should make you feel proud when driving it, that you DID that work yourself. Nice job.
Have you tried the old "hot wire" trick? That is sticking a screwdriver blade between battery and ignition post's on the starter?So I was able to finish up the last bit of undercoat I needed to spray. I have the new flywheel installed and torqued to spec using ARP bolts. I worked on installing the new starter, checking clearances between the starter and flywheel as well as checking engagement clearance of the pinion with the flywheel. In doing so, I had to use 12v power to "throw" the pinion gear out in order to check that clearance. This is something they state as an acceptable practice in the installation instructions. However, in doing so, when I lowered my hand with the battery cable in hand, the wire contacted the starter in a couple other places. I'm hoping this didn't cause any damage internally. This brings me to my current problem. The car will not start. I have 12.4v in the battery, 12.4v down to the battery terminal on the starter, power at the dash, but when I turn the key, I get nothing. Not a click, not a slow whine of the starter, nothing at all. All wires are hooked up (there are only two on that starter; switch (ignition), and battery power). At first I was thinking nothing was happening because the clutch pedal was all the way up in it's natural position (if the trans were installed and springs hooked up). My thought was that, the new neutral safety switch was doing it's job. I pushed the pedal to the floor and tried again, still nothing. I though maybe I wasn't getting power to the starter, but as I stated above, there is 12.4v at the battery terminal on the solenoid. I'm at a loss. I don't know what the issue is. At this point I'm thinking it's an ignition switch problem?
I thought about that myself, and a buddy of mine mentioned it too. However, the paperwork says not to jump this starter because the pinion won't disengage properly. So for fear of messing anything up, (or anything else for that matter) I haven't done that.Have you tried the old "hot wire" trick? That is sticking a screwdriver blade between battery and ignition post's on the starter?
I thought the same. I had my charger hooked up and tried it while in the charge function as well as the "Engine start" function. No change.Tony, does the batt have enough power? even at 12.4v it may not be enough to start, but likely would have some clicks.
doesn't hurt to hook up the charger.