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Been busy, sorry.

In response to your speaker install, 6x9s have really good midbass response. They work great in panels like doors and rear decks where the magnet is in the trunk space. I the Elky, all the space is open and shared so you will get better performance if you mount these in a box. Simple premade boxes are fine. they do not need a lot of volume.

As for the subwoofer, I do not know the max depth to permit full bench movement, but you will want about 1.25 cu ft for a 12" sub. This is more space than you think. So, make sure you do correct measurements. I extended my sub into the smugglers box. This came out really well and looks awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Been busy, sorry.

In response to your speaker install, 6x9s have really good mid-bass response. They work great in panels like doors and rear decks where the magnet is in the trunk space. I the Elky, all the space is open and shared so you will get better performance if you mount these in a box. Simple pre-made boxes are fine. they do not need a lot of volume.

As for the subwoofer, I do not know the max depth to permit full bench movement, but you will want about 1.25 cu ft for a 12" sub. This is more space than you think. So, make sure you do correct measurements. I extended my sub into the smugglers box. This came out really well and looks awesome.
No worries! I have too. I need to upload photos of my latest progress. Which was over two weeks ago. I'm going to install the 6x9's in the panel in the back without any enclosures. I talked to a buddy of mine that used to install Stereos and he said they should do just fine. So a little work saved, I'm going with no enclosures. If I find that the sound is compromised, I may add enclosures later. But this car is just a cruiser, I haven't had any sound in it ever since I bought it, so even a couple of small speakers will be a huge improvement.
I'm currently waiting on my transmission to be finished with it's rebuild. I'm looking for a decent, and budget friendly priced clutch and flywheel kit. Speedway Motors has a 10.5" clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel that is reasonably priced. Although I currently have an 11" clutch. So in order to switch to a smaller flywheel ill also need a different starter. The stock type won't hook up. It's my understanding that I'll need a mini starter with two positions to take up the distance.
Purchases for parts beyond what's necessary to get the trans back in operation will have to wait. We need a roof on the house and unnecessary spending won't fly right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I've been quite busy lately with work. The main focus on the car has been the headliner install. I had been doing a little bit here and there when I had time available. I installed the insulation on the underside of the roof and let the headliner material sit out in the sun. Once warmed I installed the bows into their respective locations, and then stretched the headliner forward, back, and then side to side. I read on a different thread that one of the more difficult parts was getting the headliner rod into the brackets. I didn't think much of it, considering they are just plastic clips. Boy was I wrong, those put up a fight.

After I had the headliner up and clipped into place, I let it sit and stretch for a few/three days. Then I removed all the clips and restretched it again, and let it sit again. I got busy and didn't touch the car for over a week. Once I was able to get back around to it, I started to glue it in place. The glue I was using came from OPGI and is stated to be used for headliners. It mentions that it will dry up in a few minutes but to also wait until it becomes tacky and doesnt transfer to your skin with a light touch. I think I waited too long because it didn't stick AT ALL. So I had to redo that as well as glue in the rest of the headliner. After letting that sit for a while, I installed the windlace on all sides. I think it came out pretty well considering the fact it was my first go at a headliner install. I need to order the brackets to install the visors.

Does anyone have a photo of their rear view mirror bracket positioning? I forgot to locate my holes before I put the headliner up. I had the idea of putting screws in the holes for the visors but forgot all about the rear view mirror. I'll finish this job up, then try to wrap up the rear speaker panel, and install the new carpet. The stereo will have to do with what I have on hand. So no amp to power the sub or the 6x9's.

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Wow, really nice work on the headliner! The speaker panel looks great too. With the speakers in a panel like that, seperating front from rear air space, I agree that you will get good performance without adding enclosures. I thought you were just mounting them in that metal panel with them firing downward into the open cab.

I can't wait to see how the interior finishes up.

Cheers,
Scott
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Wow, really nice work on the headliner! The speaker panel looks great too. With the speakers in a panel like that, seperating front from rear air space, I agree that you will get good performance without adding enclosures. I thought you were just mounting them in that metal panel with them firing downward into the open cab.

I can't wait to see how the interior finishes up.

Cheers,
Scott
Thanks! Appreciate it. I can't wait for it to be done so that I can get behind the wheel again!
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I've purchased a 10.5" clutch from Speedway Motors. They had a clutch and flywheel kit on sale. Normally $433, I got it for $374.99. Had to get a mini starter to engage the smaller flywheel, and a new throwout bearing as well. My buddy is in the process of getting the trans back together. Hopefully be back on the road by the end of the month. Headliner is nearly finished. I just need to refinish the pillar moldings, install the carpet and stereo head unit. The speaker panel just needs a few tweaks and trimming, and then I can cover it with the carpet and install that. Car has come a long way in a few months. I didn't set out to go this much work, but I'm glad I have had the opportunity to do so.
 

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The quality of your work is quite spectacular. It should make you feel proud when driving it, that you DID that work yourself. Nice job.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
The quality of your work is quite spectacular. It should make you feel proud when driving it, that you DID that work yourself. Nice job.
Thanks Scott. Greatly appreciate that. I'm no pro, and I'm sure the photos are doing my work lots of justice, but i do try to take my time and do good work. I try to work/live by the motto "Anything worth doing, is worth doing right the first time". Occasionally I slack on that, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #54 (Edited)
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A couple photos of this weekends progress. Sanded and painted the A-pillar moldings. Received the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel and miscellaneous hardware. Also a new mini starter. Degreased, pressure washed the entire undercarriage. Then I let it dry for a day and sprayed undercoat on the floorboards, and tunnel. The car is now back inside the garage, ready for the clutch install, checking out the backup light as soon as the new switch comes in. One step at a time!
 

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Discussion Starter #55
So I was able to finish up the last bit of undercoat I needed to spray. I have the new flywheel installed and torqued to spec using ARP bolts. I worked on installing the new starter, checking clearances between the starter and flywheel as well as checking engagement clearance of the pinion with the flywheel. In doing so, I had to use 12v power to "throw" the pinion gear out in order to check that clearance. This is something they state as an acceptable practice in the installation instructions. However, in doing so, when I lowered my hand with the battery cable in hand, the wire contacted the starter in a couple other places. I'm hoping this didn't cause any damage internally. This brings me to my current problem. The car will not start. I have 12.4v in the battery, 12.4v down to the battery terminal on the starter, power at the dash, but when I turn the key, I get nothing. Not a click, not a slow whine of the starter, nothing at all. All wires are hooked up (there are only two on that starter; switch (ignition), and battery power). At first I was thinking nothing was happening because the clutch pedal was all the way up in it's natural position (if the trans were installed and springs hooked up). My thought was that, the new neutral safety switch was doing it's job. I pushed the pedal to the floor and tried again, still nothing. I though maybe I wasn't getting power to the starter, but as I stated above, there is 12.4v at the battery terminal on the solenoid. I'm at a loss. I don't know what the issue is. At this point I'm thinking it's an ignition switch problem?
 

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So I was able to finish up the last bit of undercoat I needed to spray. I have the new flywheel installed and torqued to spec using ARP bolts. I worked on installing the new starter, checking clearances between the starter and flywheel as well as checking engagement clearance of the pinion with the flywheel. In doing so, I had to use 12v power to "throw" the pinion gear out in order to check that clearance. This is something they state as an acceptable practice in the installation instructions. However, in doing so, when I lowered my hand with the battery cable in hand, the wire contacted the starter in a couple other places. I'm hoping this didn't cause any damage internally. This brings me to my current problem. The car will not start. I have 12.4v in the battery, 12.4v down to the battery terminal on the starter, power at the dash, but when I turn the key, I get nothing. Not a click, not a slow whine of the starter, nothing at all. All wires are hooked up (there are only two on that starter; switch (ignition), and battery power). At first I was thinking nothing was happening because the clutch pedal was all the way up in it's natural position (if the trans were installed and springs hooked up). My thought was that, the new neutral safety switch was doing it's job. I pushed the pedal to the floor and tried again, still nothing. I though maybe I wasn't getting power to the starter, but as I stated above, there is 12.4v at the battery terminal on the solenoid. I'm at a loss. I don't know what the issue is. At this point I'm thinking it's an ignition switch problem?
Have you tried the old "hot wire" trick? That is sticking a screwdriver blade between battery and ignition post's on the starter?
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Have you tried the old "hot wire" trick? That is sticking a screwdriver blade between battery and ignition post's on the starter?
I thought about that myself, and a buddy of mine mentioned it too. However, the paperwork says not to jump this starter because the pinion won't disengage properly. So for fear of messing anything up, (or anything else for that matter) I haven't done that.
This is a Powermaster Starter. I purchased it from Speedway Motors at this link Powermaster 9100 PowerMax Mini Starter, Chevy
 

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Tony, does the batt have enough power? even at 12.4v it may not be enough to start, but likely would have some clicks.

doesn't hurt to hook up the charger.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Tony, does the batt have enough power? even at 12.4v it may not be enough to start, but likely would have some clicks.

doesn't hurt to hook up the charger.
I thought the same. I had my charger hooked up and tried it while in the charge function as well as the "Engine start" function. No change.
 
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