[sdcerreta]

bummer. is there power at the wire on the solenoid when the key switch is turned? if yes then starter may be defective.

 

[Old Bear]

Similar problems with my Cheyenne. I replaced battery and vroom. Two days later, just a click. Had it towed to Shear Performance in Costa Mesa. They cleaned and tightened 12 different cables for maintenance, Then vroom. Especially check the cables to the starter.

 

[Hat Trick]

Did the old starter work? I know you said you checked the clutch/neutral switch but it is the first place I would look. Then wiring at the starter. Then a test light at the starter and have someone turn the key. Looks like the purple wire needs to energize when cranking.
Tom

 

[A. McGovern]

I haven't checked to see if there is power at the purple terminal wire, when the key is on. Hat Trick, the old starter worked perfectly. The reason for the changeout, I had mentioned earlier in the thread. I decided to have my trans rebuilt, and in turn needed to get a clutch. I had an 11" flywheel and switched to a 10.5". So I needed to get a starter that had two mounting positions that would engage the smaller flywheel. I checked the neutral safety switch again this morning. I unplugged it and tried, plugged it back in and tried again. Still nothing. Charger is hooked up with 12.8v. I will have my wife turn the key while I check the ignition terminal at the starter.

 

[A. McGovern]

So I was finally able to go out and mess with the starter last weekend. I haven't done anything this week. I've been down with a minor neck injury. When I was out last weekend. I hadn't had a chance to get the wife out to turn the key, so I put my test light on the terminal of the starter solenoid with the alligator clamp on the Neg. battery terminal, leaned the light against the header, laid my phone across the heater hoses, and started recording. That connection, or the fact that the car sat a few days without me messing with it, must have done something. As soon as I turned the key, it cranked over. What changed? I have no idea. But it's cranked every time since then. The issue I'm having now, that my buddy and dad alike say "should be fine", or "sounds normal to me", is when cranking, the pinion gear of the starter engages the flywheel, and then "bounces" back and forth. At first I thought it was smacking the flywheel and the pinion gear spinning freely. I had my wife crank the car (it ended up starting) but I was able to get a video of the starter engaging. You can see if it uploads properly, the pinion gear jumping back and forth, while still maintaining adequate engagement. My wife also kept the key turned a bit too long. So that can be seen as well. My buddy thinks it's loud because I don't have the clutch and pressure plate installed yet, and the trans isn't in either. He's thinking that the pinion gear engaging is echoing through the flywheel without all the other components to help absorb the sound.

So I was going to post a video. But I can't figure out how. I think I described the situation reasonably well in the previous paragraph. One issue at a time, it's coming back together.

 

[B52bombardier1]

Upload the video to You Tube and then post the link to it here.

Rick

 

[A. McGovern]

Thanks B52. I don't know why I didn't think of that. You should be able to see the video at this link... 70 El Camino starter issue

 

[B52bombardier1]

Looks and sounds like either a weak starter solenoid or inadequate power to the solenoid to keep it fully engaged.

The teeth look OK to me.

Rick

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[pitts64]

The starter is too close to the flex plate..

 

[A. McGovern]

I installed the clutch this morning. It sounds a little bit better, but still not quite where I'd like it to be. I'm going to pull the starter and reinstall the shim between the starter motor and its mounting plate. This should push the starter forward and distance the pinion gear from the flywheel a bit more. Hoping this dials it in.

 

[A. McGovern]

The past few days I have been working on the speaker panel. I trimmed it down so that it fit in it's space snug. I picked up some more spray adhesive. This time I found a heavier adhesive that what I used for the sail panels on the headliner. (Those have actually pulled away in some areas, creating some bubbles. Very frustrating). I made sure to spray several coats of adhesive on both the carpet and the wood panel. I began with the panel upside down and folded a flap around the back of the panel. Then I flipped it and worked my way down. I ended up with enough carpet to cover both sides of the board. I'm sure this was unnecessary, but my OCD wanted to cover the entire thing as soon as I realized I had enough material to do so. I laid the flaps from all sides onto each other, sliced over them and removed the material I didn't need so that it all laid down flat. I grabbed some scrap steel plate, cut out some small tabs. Those were filed smooth, edges rounded, drilled, and painted. This morning I used those to secure the bottom of the panel to the back panel of the car. I used self tapping screws to secure into the metal rail that joins the upper bed panel with the lower. I will install a couple connectors to the speaker wire, and install the speakers in place. I also repainted my rear kick panels.

 

[A. McGovern]

Speakers wired up and installed. I didn't put any screws at the top of the panel, through the shelf panel, because the fitment after I put the carpet was put on, was very tight. If I have issues with vibrating loose later, then I'll install some. But at this point, I really like how clean it is without screws at the top. I also don't want to drill more holes.

 

[A. McGovern]

Couple of updates:

I haven't finished the stereo install due to the fact I cannot find the issue with the wiring. I have looked for broken fusible links under the advisement of fellow members. The links I've found near the voltage regulator and horn relay all look good. There is 12v power on both sides of the links there. I was told there is one near the starter, but I have not been able to locate any.
Note: When the engine harness was installed, unused plugs near the starter were improperly secured (with white zip ties). The headers heated up the ties, causing them to break, and allowing the wires and plugs to fall onto the header. This obviously caused some melting. I'm beginning to wonder if that event caused something to short out? This was more than 10 years ago.
I also have a brand new Forever Sharp Steering Wheel awaiting install. Can't wait to see what it looks like with the rest of the interior.

I took a break from the wiring debacle and flipped my bench seat over to look at the springs. The seat had been reupholstered many years ago and has done fairly well. The problem is, a couple springs broke shortly thereafter. I've dealt with the unsupportive seat for a long time, but figured since it was out, I should take a look. I figured I could weld the broken sections back together. Come to find out, this has been done before, and on the drivers side, there are pieces missing.
Now, I'm trying to decide what to do next. I really don't want to spend any more money with the holidays right around the corner. Used seats fetch upwards of 200 bones, and they would need to be reupholstered. I think for now, I'll likely have to live with it.
I've linked a video I took when inspecting. I wonder if they sell individual springs that I can replace?
Bench seat inspection

The latest development is one I've been waiting for. The transmission is finished! I picked it up from my buddys place a couple nights ago. Looks good. He hooked me up with grade 8 bolts throughout, massaged a couple of the bearing surfaces to aid in lubrication (something he picked up by watching a veteran builder on youtube). I brought it home, set it on my bench and began to put the shifter back on, installing the mounting plate with grade 8 bolts myself.
I also installed the aftermarket backup light switch I picked up from Holley a few months ago. Hopefully that does the trick as far as getting the backup lights to work.

I plan to continue working on all these items during the Thanksgiving break, in between household projects.

Photo Journey:

Forever Sharp "Wood" style steering wheel.

Trans during final assembly

Back home in my shop.

Looks like I need some new bushings for the shift arms.

Grade 8 bolts for the shifter mounting plate. Previously the plate only had two bolts holding it on. My buddy re-tapped the top right hole. Nice and solid now.

Shifter getting ready for install

New backup light switch from Holley

Backup switch mounted. I don't have a photo of it, but I removed it this morning after installing last night, and tweaked the bracket so that the reverse shift lever collapses the plunger for the switch and doesn't push the entire assembly back. Initially the way the bracket was bent, it would interfere with a full throw of the lever

Also had to tweak it to the side to contact the shift lever

 

[A. McGovern]

Fusible links at the core support drivers side.

Both of these tested fine with 12v on either side of the link

No fusible links found near the battery

Melted plugs near the heater box, pass side of the engine.

No fusible links found near the starter

No links found in the wiring going up the firewall and behind the engine.

 

[sdcerreta]

I'm excited to see that steering wheel. Get on with it, man.

What is the issue you are having with the wiring. I could not find the post about it.

 

[sdcerreta]

Your rear deck 6x9s came out really well too.

 

[A. McGovern]

I haven't posted an update in a while. I still have not made any headway with the electrical issue. So the stereo remains installed, but not wired up. Electrical problems frustrate me to no end.

I did however get my transmission back. All rebuilt and ready to rock. I reinstalled the shifter with new bushings for the arms. Local stores didn't have any nylon bushings in stock, but I was able to get Hurst steel bushings same day. Everything is nice and snug now with no play.

Installing the transmission took some time. I ran into several issues. First, the trans went in, save for the last 1/2"-3/4". For the life of me I could not figure out why. I pulled and "reinstalled" the trans about 8 times. One time, the input shaft got jammed in the throwout bearing while trying to bring the trans back out. I ended up having to take one of my hands off the bottom of the trans, to gently pry the trans out. Well, it gave way with absolutely no warning and fell on my chest. That was a bit of a wake up call. I set it aside and double checked everything. I felt the alignment of the clutch disc was a tad off. It seemed ever so slightly shifted to the left. I decided to pull the pressure plate and disc out to verify fitment. I felt that the last bit the trans wouldn't go, was the engagement of the splines from the input shaft to the disc.

Once I had everything out, I went to slide the disc onto the input shaft, and it didn't go. I immediately thought "****, I have the wrong one". But I took a breath and counted the splines, sure enough, they matched. I tried again, this time being more careful and intentional to keep everything straight. It gave me a little bit of trouble but finally slid on. This told me that when I attempted to install the trans the next time, everything had to be absolutely PERFECTLY aligned. I was using the alignment tool provided with the clutch but it seemed to hang up going in and coming out. I found one of my old alignment tools from a previous clutch that fit much better and didn't get stuck.

After I verified proper alignment, I put a touch of grease on the front of the pilot bushing, splines of the clutch disc and splines of the input shaft. I got myself situated with the trans on my chest, made sure my hand placement was such that it would allow for some movement. Raised the trans into position, being careful not to let the input shaft pull down on the clutch disc, a couple wriggles and it popped right into place. I was so happy! Days of wrestling with it, even my buddy came over to give it a shot and couldn't get it in before I took the clutch out.

Photo Journey:
Driveshaft before

Sanded down

Driveshaft painted up

Trans ready to go in with new bushings on the shift arms

Closeup of the bushings and part number

Gap in trans during initial install attempts

 

[A. McGovern]

Verifying disc fitment on input

Perfect, but tight fit

Bushing fitment verification

Popped right in without the clutch

Reinstalled everything, being more deliberate and intentional not to bang it around causing misalignment. Went right in. So relieved! Fully installed, and tightened down.

 

[A. McGovern]

Scott,

I had installed the steering wheel about a week or so ago. Here are a couple photos of that. I'm excited to get hands on and drive this thing again!


Also starting on the new carpet install.

 

[Crs59]

Went back out this afternoon and filled the gap at the trans tunnel where I measured/fit incorrectly.
View attachment 131104

Addressed the issue with the new pan not having the same depth to the wiring trough as the original. I cut both sides of the trough on both the old and the new, mated them together, worked the sides down to reduce the gap, and rewelded.
View attachment 131106

Gap on existing pan.
View attachment 131107

Gap on new pan
View attachment 131108

Lining up the two pieces.
View attachment 131109


View attachment 131110

Gaps welded up.
View attachment 131112


View attachment 131113

Pan is fully welded and ready to be ground down.
View attachment 131115

All welds will be ground down, and pin holes rewelded, and then I'll apply seam sealer to this and the passenger side. Underside isn't the prettiest, but I'll coat everything with sprayable undercoat to protect from future rust issues.
Once those steps are complete, I'll begin cleaning up the rest of the floor, and get it ready for Dynamat!

Now there's a person dedicated to doing something right anybody else would have just took a hammer beat that down and welded it up.you don't see that kind of pride in work nowadays I'm impressed.Crs59 from Ky.