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Discussion Starter #1
The shifting is kinda sleasy. It talkes a while to go from one gear to another. Is this normal? It seems like it pauses to shift.

What RPM's should the tranny be to shift each gear, provided I'm not "pushing" it to accelerate?

How can you tell if you have a "lock-out" or not? Is the lock out controlled by a computer chip? I have wiring from the dash going (I assume) to the tranny. I don't think this tranny is original, as the build sheet says (MW9) 200R4. My gas milage sucks, both in town and highway. I have an Weiand dual plane Action Plus intake and a 4-bbl Edelbrock carb.

Any help would be appreciated.
 

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the shifts should be firm but not harsh and depending on the gear in the rear the shift points will differ greatly.elcaminos never came with a 700. as far as the fuel milage put a q jet back on it.the edlebrocks arnt known for thier fuel efficency. but to be honest i am biased against the edlebrocks. but the q jet set up right will outperform them any dayin both power and milage
 

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hit up trany mike for the trans issues.it could be several things includeing the tv cable adjustment and brackets .he is the expert trans guy here.he wont point you wrong
 

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I'f you have a 7004r the cable from your carb to transmission must be adjusted properly or it will shift sloppy and early or late and hard. under light throttle it should shift from 1st to 2nd at around 15-20mph and right after the upshift it must downshift to 1st when floored to be adjusted correctly
 

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Discussion Starter #5
CCC, LOLOL Yeah, I agree about the q-jet. Think I'll start searching for one. I had one on my '56, and got good milage, but throttle shaft bushing gave out, and there it went. Put a Holley on, and it does fair. Engine is also a 350, and weight is about the same, so should get about same milage with both having OD.

Double-d, yes have a cable from carb to transmission. One of my next projects is to make sure it's adjusted correctly with right pressure. Haven't tried to downshift back to 1st by flooring. Shifts slopply to 3rd? between 35-45mph. Is that right? What I want is this tranny to shift properly and have lockout to help with milage. It would help if mike came on board to help answer these and more questions.
 

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Hey Bruce. When you were here at the house I smelled raw gas pretty strong. I suspect you have a leak or floats not set correctly or something like that.

Jack
 

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with a 400/sbc, 700/2300 converter,342 gears,225/60/vr15 tires and all of the electronics connected and working my elco got between 21 and 23 mpg on the road. put a q jet of either type and make sure your converter is locking up good and you should get at least 20. my 84 z 28 has a stock roller cam 350,700/ 1200 converter,373 gears,245/50 wr16 tires and non electric q jet and it gets 21 if you keep it below 80. are all of the shifts soft and late if so i would look into the tv adjustment.the carb you are useing isnt right on for the tv geometry first off.and that could be a lot of your issues.gm engineered the 700 to work off of the q jets throttle/tv ratio.when i had a holley on my elco for a while i took the throttle bracket from a q jet and welded it to the holley to make the tv correct useing stock brackets and cables
 

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as far as the fuel milage put a q jet back on it.the edlebrocks arnt known for thier fuel efficency. but to be honest i am biased against the edlebrocks. but the q jet set up right will outperform them any dayin both power and milage
Step up to aftermarket fuel injection.

Carbs arent known for thier fuel efficency, but to be honest i am biased against the carbs. but the injection set up right will outperform them any dayin both power and milage....Just sayin.
 

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you are absolutely correct on the efi,thats why i am converting all of my toys one by one to efi. did a tbi on my monte ss last year and starting my 86 elco the end of this month,i did my 83 malibu 15 years ago with tpi. you cant even get the gauges to set the mixture control solenoid in the eletric q jets any more . you have to keep tuneing it to get it close enough to run right or send it out and be bent over to get it done by a shop. try to find a chevy dealer who will even try to rebuild a carb or adjust the electronics in it. carbs, as much as i love them are a dieing part of car history. the last carb was put on an american car in 88.for what i have seen some of you guys spend on carb systems i can put a junkyard efi system on my car
 

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i have 2 chevy caprice lt1 powered police cars, truely amazing cars. 4500 lbs powered by a 260 hp lt1 with 308 gears and sequential efi.cruzing they get between 23 /25 mpg.they will get 20 mpg at 100 mph.a friend in arizona unlocked the speed limiter in my 94 and i have a pic on my cell phone of the digital speedo at 169 mph. try that with a 260 hp motor and carb,fat chance. it took almost 200 more hp to get my elco close to that speed with a carb with over 400 worth of modifications to it from the carb shop in pamona ca. carbs are great but efi is free hp and milage.how can you argue with that. oh and by the way that caprice has 225,000 miles on the original untouched engine
 

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agree

Carbs still have thier place on the dragstrip. They are still capable of equal max HP at WOT, but I cant think of any other application where a carb would be even close in drivability, tunability, emissions and user friendly these days....maybe restorations.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
IF I were to go to TPI or other electronic injection system, aren't both controlled by a computer chip? That means another wiring harness to what I already have, which is a conglomerated mess. I have a nonelectronic controlled carb and HEI. None of the smog (except cats) are being used. I have an air breather on one side valve cover and a PCV on the other valve cover. Now, there's still a lot of wiring under the hood for stuff I have no idea what it goes to. I'm just trying to figure out if the tranny is functioning as it should. It doesn't appear to be. I had a 4L60E (700r4) in a '99 Silverado and it shifted a heck of a lot better than this does. It appears I'll just have to take it to a tranny shop that knows noncomputer 700r4's and get them to set it up properly, including the pressure.

I've printed the BTO info, and study that. I could probably do the work, but I don't want to be buying a lot of "special" equipment that may never be used again.

Oh, and what about Lockout? How can you (me) tell if it's installed and/or functioning properly?

Jack, The carb boils out the fuel when I shut off the engine. Now, that doesn't mean the carb is adjusted (float) properly. I'm very seriously considering replacing the intake and carb.
 

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the lock up is easy to test drive it down the road above 50 and while keeping you foot on the gas with your other foot just barely push the brake pedal ,not enough to slow you .you should see a slight increase in rpm,when you release the brake you should see a slight decrese in rpm. if not it may not be working. as for the wireing .you take all of your old ecm wireing out.the efi uses a lot less emissions stuff to do a better job.if you use a speed density tpi you will have almost nothing on the engine compared to a carb model. its a win win deal. you get away from the tempermental carb and get something you turn the key and drive
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Carl, any suggestions on which TPI to get, and the approximate cost? Also, I would guess that it works well with the 700r4?
 
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