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Discussion Starter #1
I bought two new fenders for my 79. I think they are goodmark. Supposed to be the good ones. I'm having a problem getting the driver side fender to line up. Right now I have the 2 bolts inside the door and the top bolt by the cowl holding the fender on. Not tight. The front of the fender where it bolts to the core support is about 2 inches high. I can push it down about an inch but it messes up the gap between the door and the fender. It's like the hole fender needs to go straight down but it cant because of the 2 door bolt holes line up where it is and the cowl bolt flange is sitting against the cowl. The passenger side looks ok but 2 inches seems really high to be off. I'd upload pic if I new how. Any help is appreciated
 

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I had problems with the new aftearket fenders I bought for the 78. I ended up buying 4 fenders to make 2 work. I don't think the brand makes any difference. Each brand, buys them from Taiwan. The first didn't fit at all. The next 2, I had to cut and rewelded to make them work. A body man told me I did a great job fitting them up.
 

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On the passenger side, I cut the spot welds in the front,and rewelded, to get it to line up with the nose. On the driver's side, I had to grind down the bracket, on the top of fender between the firewall and the wheel.
 

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On the first set, I couldn't get them with the doors and cowl. They stuck up in the air about 1/2 inch . Neither one wouldn't bolt right against the cowl.
 

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My friend, I need way more information on this. I know any aftermarket fender is never fun but 2 inches makes me want to ask more questions. I've been a body tech for 37 years, so please tell me a couple things. First, is your car sitting on jack stands or on the suspension? Second, did you buy the car wrecked and in need of repair? And third, if you can get some pics posted, I might be able to help,can't promise but will try.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Car is on jack stands all around. Should I unbolt the passenger fender, bolt wheels and tires on then try bolting both fenders back on. I'll post pics
 

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without seeing the set-up in person, I will at least offer a couple of suggestions. Jack stands under the A-arms should not be a problem unless there is a leveling problem like one shorter than the other or the stands are at the control arm bushings instead of the ball joint. Double check that the car is level. Also, these cars have an enormous amount of flex in the frame especially with the motor installed. Honestly, fender alignment should be done with the car sitting level on the suspension as would be driven. Hope this helps.

Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I put the wheels and tires on the front. It brought the core support and the fender closer but I had to jack up the driver side front frame to get it even closer. I was able to bolt it up but I still have about a quarter inch gap between the fender and door. Also I sat my header panel on the front and its offset to the right. So my plan now is to move the car onto level ground, bolt all wheels on. Loosen everything up on the front end and start over leaving every bolt loose until I get it straight. Hopefully this will work. It is crazy how much these frames twist. I'll keep you all posted. Probably wont be till next weekend. Thanks again
 

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These cars have a lot of flex. Almost all full frame cars do. To change the fender to door gap once the radiator support is bolted up, use a floor jack and lift the front of the frame at the bumper or mounting area and loosen the cowl to fender bolts. Use the jack to lift or lower the frame until the gap looks good and tighten all bolts. then you can go on to the other side and repeat! Also, using a jack at the cowl area with the upper bolts tightened will tighten the lower gap. I've had to alternate top and bottom and "walk" a fender back into place more than once. Hope this helps, honestly that's how I've done it for years.

Good luck and feel free to IM and I'll give you a text number. You got this!
 

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I am the original poster. My post was hijacked. My car is not on jack stands or on the suspension. The car was never wrecked. It only has 56K on it. The fenders are Goodmark though. My fenders are only an inch high. If i raise the core support, the fenders will line up. Don't know if the doors, hood, and fascia will though
 

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Ok, Your post wasn't hijacked that I know of. I posted this older thread hoping there might be something that would help. You say your car isn't on jack stands or the suspension, so may I ask what it is siting on?

Joe
 

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Or maybe fenders for another car like Malibu or wagon or even Monte???
That won't make a difference but good thought. There is more to this story, the more info the better. My next question will be why are new fenders needed for a never wrecked 56k original miles car? The only thing I can come up with would be rust, or possibly hail or vandalism.

Joe
 

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That won't make a difference but good thought. There is more to this story, the more info the better. My next question will be why are new fenders needed for a never wrecked 56k original miles car? The only thing I can come up with would be rust, or possibly hail or vandalism.

Joe

My fenders had no dents or rust, but I dissembled the car 25 years ago to start my Crystalite project. The military kept me too busy to work on it and I retired 7 years ago. Rather than deal with dusty old, seal cracked parts, I decided to just buy everything new. Fenders, doors, tailgate, cowl hood, etc. I've gone new with almost everything that can still be purchased. I've already got 19K in the car, but I'm a perfectionist. Car was originally a V6 car purchased with 32K on it. I put a 350 in it at that time and drove it until it had 56K on it, before stripping it.
 

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